Hello, anybody to explain why red warning bulb with triangle on instruments doesnt swith off when lights are on. When lights are off it functions normally, switch off with brake lever. What to check?

Regards

hi nino

that light is normally the bulb monitor circuit ....on startup you have to pump the front and rear brakes to get it to extinguish

but it also monitors the "park lights " front and back ...could you have a faulty globe in there somewhere ?

often the rear lamp gets some corrosion in the connector and becomes intermittent ....the bulb monitor circuit sees this as a weak or blown bulb ....a few of us have had to clean up these connections , and or replace the bulbs to get the red warning light to turn off

hope this helps

charlie99 wrote:hi nino

that light is normally the bulb monitor circuit ....on startup you have to pump the front and rear brakes to get it to extinguish

but it also monitors the "park lights " front and back ...could you have a faulty globe in there somewhere ?

often the rear lamp gets some corrosion in the connector and becomes intermittent ....the bulb monitor circuit sees this as a weak or blown bulb ....a few of us have had to clean up these connections , and or replace the bulbs to get the red warning light to turn off

hope this helps

Thanks Charlie, you are kind man

Is this recent or since you had the bike? It'll react like that if a 5W bulb is placed instead of a 10W one.

ReneZ wrote:Is this recent or since you had the bike? It'll react like that if a 5W bulb is placed instead of a 10W one.

Ahh Thanks for the "enlightenment", I always wondered why the previous owner of my bike had covered over the red light with black duct tape.... there is a 5w bulb in the tail light..



"Duct tape is like the force, Luke, it has a dark side and a light side and it holds the universe together"

I use a 5 watt bulb in the tail light with no problem from the monitor. There may be some corrosion in the bulb holder.

In my experience this is almost always due to a failed rear tail light filament or a corroded bulb holder as mentioned above - your mileage might vary

krambo wrote:In my experience this is almost always due to a failed rear tail light filament or a corroded bulb holder as mentioned above - your mileage might vary

Yes, it was broken rear tail bulb 5 W I didnt notice. It happens every few years so I forgot what red triangle means. Thanks

Avenger GT wrote:I use a 5 watt bulb in the tail light with no problem from the monitor. There may be some corrosion in the bulb holder.

Thanks, I think I have a new holder in my big box of spares. Will change it today, clean the block connector in seat unit and also see if I can find a 10w bulb in the shed, then that will eliminate most of the reasons for the red light being on

new holder ....? why not try some "deoxit " you will buy it once ...and use it for a hunderd jobs

just clean up the surfaces with this magic stuff and try again

charlie99 wrote:new holder ....? why not try some "deoxit " you will buy it once ...and use it for a hunderd jobs

just clean up the surfaces with this magic stuff and try again

Why new holder..... Well because I have one... I'll still keep the old one.

I got 2 big boxes of new parts on ebay some time ago for both k and r series bikes from Sussex police garage and I've been slowly using them on any work I do on the bike
I've got more seals, bearings, switches keys,filters etc than I know what to do with

Deoxit...about £20
New holder....nothing

But you're right... I must get myself a can of the stuff.... I hear nothing but praise for it

Well new bulb holder and liberal spraying of contact cleaner in and around the spade connectors and the block connector in the tail unit.... still need my duct tape.

Its not the brake light circuit, that works fine (turn lights off,ignition on, apply brakes, red light goes out. Side lights on... red light comes on)

Question.1) Would the bulb monitor fail on just the lighting circuit part and not the brake light part?
2) Would bulbs in the speedo unit being out affect this in any way?

The Postman wrote "I've got more seals, bearings, switches keys,filters etc than I know what to do with "

Mate Bro Pal Occa cobba Digga Bud what a fine chap you are. I love the excesses.

One thing though check the side lights for all being the same wattage, or the same candle power, often mix and match isnt always so spot on that the circuits are satisfyed, or you have a high resistance contact in one of the circuits. Best way is to keep fossicking

the.postman wrote: Question.1) Would the bulb monitor fail on just the lighting circuit part and not the brake light part?

Possible, the BMU got 3 elements sensing current flow (reed switches, on early models)...one for each brake light switch, one for the tail light bulb.

the.postman wrote: 2) Would bulbs in the speedo unit being out affect this in any way?

No, the BMU only monitors the tail and brake light bulb.

K75cster wrote:

Mate Bro Pal Occa cobba Digga Bud what a fine chap you are. I love the excesses.

Love the terms of endearment.

Hmm wot u after

Well found a 10w bulb today... And I can junk the duct tape No more blinding red lights

Thanks for the info on the BMU Inge K

Its always a good thing to know what's going on between your legs


any body know how to get nasty adhesive marks off clock plastic

the.postman wrote: any body know how to get nasty adhesive marks off clock plastic

Squeeze a lemon, the low ph dissolves the glue...but won`t harm the plastic.

Thanks. Will give it a go in the morning

Bike starts, runs etc, but the red triangular light will not go off
Only time it's off is when engine is off and kill switch set to either side
Someone has fitted a led running light above headlight
Any ideas, the switch may need looking at

bill the red light extinguishes after you have used both front and rear brake switches ....and the brake light has turned on , on both occasions ....

THANKS, 100% correct, i'm still going over bike after delivery and haven't actually ridden it; started it, used front and rear brake and light went out
Thanks for the info

For a new to you K it is really worth going over every electrical connection on the bike with DeoxIT the problem with 20 year old electrical connections is just that 20 years of humidity and corrosive salts either from road spray or in the air from other vehicle exhaust they all add up. Most of the circuits are only working on 12 volts and some on much less where they sense thermistors or throttle position.
Regards,
K-BIKE