Hi there again,

When I ran the engine after rebuilding the oil/water pump, I don't think I heard the fan come on when the engine got warm. I want to check the fuse, but I can't find a fusebox diagram in the Clymer manual (the fuse box cover that may have had a diagram is missing). Can someone tell me or show me which fuse goes to the fan?

I also want to check whether the fan works. The Clymer manual says (on page 324) "Remove the clip and disconnect the electrical connector from the switch, then place a jumper wire between the two electrical terminals in the electrical connector. Turn the ignition switch on and the fan should start running."

I see a wire (that I think is the clip) going around the square connector, but I don't want to damage it by removing it incorrectly. How do you "remove the clip"?

Thanks, Tom

Fuse #7 is for the fan relay contact, together with horn and flasher relay switched power.
Fuse #6 feeds the electronic part of the heat management relay (fan and warning light), together with the fuel pump.

Ain`t got the Clymer manual, but jumping the connectors at the sensor isn`t correct (it would with normal single sensor).

This sensor is with dual element, one element connects to the heat management relay, the other to the ECU for the fuel mix.
And they are both measuring the resistance to ground via the sensor.
You must ground one of the contacts to test the complete fan circuit (violet/green wire).

To get the clip of, use a pointed instrument at the open end.

or take a wire from the "e" terminal on the temp relay to earth

just a heads up ...the two pin fan connector behind the radiator is often found to be corroded ...which usually cleans up nicely with deoxit

Fuses 6 and 7 (counting from the top down) were ok. I got the wire clip hold off the temp sensor connector. The terminals were clean.

Both wires in the cable are purple (violet). With the key "on", I tried grounding each wire to the battery negative terminal) and the fan did not turn on. I guess the fault is either in the fan itself or the wiring?

I have not tried grounding the "e" terminal on the temp relay yet. Would that provide any additional useful information?

Thanks, Tom

the "e" terminal is the input to the temp relay tom .....or more precisely the temp sensor wire ...when it gets below about 100 ohms the fan should come on ...but as i said its common for the connector to the fan to be corroded and the fan not to have turned for lots of years ...in colder climates ....

i think i saw rickg offer a suggestion to poke a stick (broom stick or similar dowl perhaps ?) in the right hand side fairing vent and attempt to make sure that the fan does in fact rotate some ...use a torch for lighting i guess

tom_k75c wrote:I have not tried grounding the "e" terminal on the temp relay yet. Would that provide any additional useful information?

If the fan then starts, then the problem is in the violet/green wire between the sensor and the relay.

The wire to the relay should be violet with a thin green line.
The wire to the ECU should be white with a thin green line.

You could start in the other end, have you tried to turn to fan with your finger?
It is not unusal that the fan is stuck, caused to less use.

It is also a connector close to the fan.....which is hard to reach....then you can jump it directly.

Another thing you could try, is to remove the relay and then using a jump wire at the A2 terminal in the socket, then the fan is powered directly.

Fan connector:



Fan relay:

just supurfulous information at the moment but

like all things exposed to heat and wet , the connector at the tmperature sensor also does go open circuit ....or high from close proximity to the radiator and ingress of water over time .....so if you are hunting around near the radiator to fix the fan connection etc ....do the temp sensor connections as well ,,,they hide behind a connector that is verry similar to the injector plug top ...with those pesky clips that hold it together .

dont forget to pull it out ....but have a cork or something about 10mm at one end getting bigger to block the coolant from leaking out . its the best way to clean the 2 blade terminals properly ....and replace the washer that bonds the sensor to the coolant stub ...

just a heads up

Got back to it this morning... did two tests that make me pretty sure it is the fan motor. First, when I jumpered the "A2" terminal to the "15" terminal of the temp sensor relay, the temperature warning light came on but the fan did not start. Then when I disconnected the fan connector plug (at the fan) and supplied power and ground to the fan plug terminals, the fan did not start.

Thanks again for your interest and assistance, Tom

tom_k75c wrote:First, when I jumpered the "A2" terminal to the "15" terminal of the temp sensor relay, the temperature warning light came on but the fan did not start.

That the warning light did came on doesn`t quite make sense to me, as terminal 15 and A2 is the fan relay contacts which is isolated from other internals in the relay.
The electronic circuit grounds the warning lamp.







But since it looks like it`s the fan motor that is the problem, this link could become useful.

Another link that could become useful.

Why don't you check the following diagrams ? All the required information is there.

CF

Thanks for the wiring and fan maintenance links. Good stuff!

When I said earlier that the "when I jumpered the "A2" terminal to the "15" terminal of the temp sensor relay, the temperature warning light came on but the fan did not start", Inge said "That the warning light came on doesn't quite make sense to me". The reason may be that when I did this, I had the kill switch in the center position.

On the wiring link provided by CF , you get to the "temperature monitoring unit" diagram by clicking the fan/temperature tab, then the clicking "temerature unit" button. This diagram shows the A3 terminal going to the temperature light and shows the circuit completed when the the kill switch is in the center position. Could this explain why the termperature light turned on when I was jumping A2 to 15 at the same time?

I don't have the fan out of the bike yet, but I can see it pretty well from the right side. I see the back of the fan and I think I see a small section of the shaft before it enters the fan motor housing. When I turn the fan with my hand, the fan turns but the shaft does not turn. It appears the shaft is locked up. What would happen to the circuitry if the shaft is locked up (probably for years)? would that cause the fan motor to draw alot of current that would blow a fuse or melt a wire?

Thanks,

Tom

Or did you mix it a bit, and did place the jumper wire between 31 and A3?

Then the warning light would show, but nothing else happen.

Don't think so, Inge, but I will double check. Does my comment about the kill swith being in the center (run) position make sense?

Thanks, Tom

if the shaft is siezed tom ....more than likely the windijng on the armature will have burn out ? next could be a connector would over heat going high resistance ....as normally happens whenever there at joins in cables ...possibly the relay contacts could be arced over and now high resistance also ...

you could test the relay by succesfully activating that input e1 to ground and meassuring across the contacts ...

other than that maybe the brush holders - connectors

sounds like a pull the fan job to me

which would enable testing of the connector at the fan

a few of us have installed aftermarket fans

good luck !

You`re correct about the kill switch needs to be in the center position to get power to the warning lamp.

If the kill switch isn`t in center position the warning lamp would not show, whatever you do at the ground side of the warning lamp.

[quote="Crazy Frog"]Why don't you check the following diagrams ? All the required information is there.

Tried following a link CF posted re tracing fan switch wiring, link failed. On download page went to open his all singing all dancing electrical diagram, that also failed to resolve.

Any thoughts Adminers, or anyone else?
TIA, Stu

The electrical schematics and the service bulletins links on the Tech page are dead, and there could be other casualties. That's been the situation for me the last few months anyway. Maybe an administrator would be able to create new links.

Hope so....

Laitch wrote:The electrical schematics and the service bulletins links on the Tech page are dead, and there could be other casualties. That's been the situation for me the last few months anyway. Maybe an administrator would be able to create new links.

@Rick G Hi Rick, something you can help with or are they lost?
TIA

I think a direct shout to Bert may be the greatest help. The URL is his old place of work before he had to give it up.

I can't do anything about those pages Bert will be the man.

Laitch wrote:The electrical schematics and the service bulletins links on the Tech page are dead, and there could be other casualties. That's been the situation for me the last few months anyway. Maybe an administrator would be able to create new links.

@Crazy Frog Hi Bert, I thought you resolved all these when you retired, maybe I dreamt that. Can you help though? this stuff is K treasure. If someone needs to go through the download pages to catalogue which don’t work, I guess I could…
Cheers mate, Stu