Output shaft - https://i.servimg.com/u/f34/17/64/54/93/output13.jpg

Removed the output shaft today - surprised to find that none of the rivets appeared to be loose whatsoever.

Engine block with output shaft removed - https://servimg.com/view/17645493/22

Once the clutch housing and bottom crankcase were removed the shaft came right out. The bearing (behind he output shaft gear turned with no binding - looked very good.

My primary bike - 2002 K1200LT - https://servimg.com/view/17645493/21\

This is the bike I have been riding for the past several years - only has 7K miles on it. I am working onthe K100 in order to have a sportier bike.



A couple questions that I am looking for some thoughts:

1. Although the output shaft rivets seemed nice and tight - I am curious if it still makes sense to swap it out for a 12-rivet shaft? I am doing everything that I can think of to avoid having to break open the engine any time soon - thoughts? Anyone know what a reasonable price is for a 12-rivet shaft?

2. I was advised by a BMW service department that I should perform an upgrade on the water pump - he says that a new impeller and associated parts should be replaced if still original in my 85 - looks original. The impeller looks more like a reversed impeller - he says that the replacement looks more like a fan blade - any thoughts if this should be replaced while I have the water pump open?

3. Lastly - I think I heard someone say that the output shaft isn't hollow all the way though - still trying to pull the pilot bearing out and wold be much easier if I could push it out from the other end - can someone confirm if it does/does not go straight through (shaft).

Hello Paul, I have 83 engine with 6 rivets. Its still tight. My advice dont swap if it is good, because you ll pay some not so small amount for no reason.

About the pump impeller: I changed it completely because shaft didnt seal after sitting for few years (typical). In BMW they sold me recondition kit (impeller, shaft, seals) 10 years ago. Still in place, no leakage. Do it.

Third? I dont have experience with that.

Best regards

Thanks, Nino - I was leaning toward sticking with my shaft, as I have already broken the bank buying a laundry list of parts. I was told that the upgraded water pump is $400 and the upgrade kit is $300 - I am guessing that I can upgrade myself and save a couple bucks. Thanks for your comments - my k100 has approx 55K miles. Appreciate your thoughts, Nino.

Paul, check british sources, www.motobins.co.uk and www.motorworks.co.uk. Much cheaper than any BMW dealer. I think you should find cheaper impeller kit.

If the shaft is good then stay with it, many have 100,000 miles and are ok.
Water pump should cost about $50 for the kit from Motobins in UK
Not sure about the shaft being hollow I suggested doing that as a might be able to do. I am not sure if it is hollow.

Nino/Rick - thanks - I wasn't sure if the UK suppliers typically ship to the U.S. I will check with them.

I looked through the shaft and didn't see daylight - I think the pilot bearing is hollow in the center - guessing that I may have to pull vs. push. Thanks, guys.

paul.dickson_VA wrote:3. Lastly - I think I heard someone say that the output shaft isn't hollow all the way though - still trying to pull the pilot bearing out and wold be much easier if I could push it out from the other end - can someone confirm if it does/does not go straight through (shaft).

From another thread you have about the same subject:

Inge K. wrote:The shaft is hollowed and have lubricating holes for both bearings and the gears at the rear end, and because of this it is a blanking plug in front of the pilot bearing.

paul.dickson_VA wrote:I looked through the shaft and didn't see daylight - I think the pilot bearing is hollow in the center - guessing that I may have to pull vs. push. Thanks, guys.

If you could have looked through the shaft, your clutch would have a very short life (caused by oil contamination), that`s why it is an blanking plug in there.

paul.dickson_VA wrote:I looked through the shaft and didn't see daylight - I think the pilot bearing is hollow in the center - guessing that I may have to pull vs. push. Thanks, guys.

Inge K. wrote:With the correct tool it shouldn`t be a problem to remove the old, if it`s not pushed flush with the blanking plug.

If it isn`t possible to get a grip on the inner end, you could tap a thread in the bearing, and then use a bolt and a slide hammer.

If you ain`t got a blind hole bearing puller or a slide hammer, tap a thread in bearing...use a bolt/screw with a full length thread, a suitable dimensioned bushing, a washer and nut.........then by tensioning the nut, pull the bearing out.

Thanks, Inge - will try that today.