Hi Guys,

I ordered up a used clutch switch as mine was bad. The new one had an intermittent but I
fixed that. It was tough getting to old one out and new one in but I managed that. Now
the switch doesn't work, it's always reading open unless I pull the handle out of the mount.
I tried adjusting the switch but it gets loose quickly and didn't adjust enough. I think maybe
the plastic bushing in my handle is worn. Do you think that would do it? Could I fill off some of
the handle to make it work? Here's a couple of pictures;

I`m in doubt that the worn pivot bushing would affect your clutch switch.

Easy enough to judge...look through the opening at front, when the lever is pulled.
It should be a couple of mm of air between the plunger and the lever itself.

If it is the pivot bushing that is the problem, I would rather tried fit a new bushing
(brass tube, or similar)...than removing material from the lever.

The pivot bushing you get as a single part, part #32 72 1 451 796.

I think that the threads would have to be stripped for the switch not to hold adjustment, and the handle bushing is perished as the Brits say.

It`s no adjustment on this switch, it have a fixed position.

have a look at the motobins site for the part ....

it seems to me that there should be a nylon or brass section in the pivot area of the handle ...

my thinking is that the cable will pull the handle closer to the switch mechanism ///but if the switch was intermittent could this not be contacting as well as a new one ....meaning that there might be too much travel before the actuall contacts make connection ?

just some thoughts

Have a look at your bike ( ) clutch switch, front and rear brake switches and the choke switch are all the same IIRC. Further the clutch handle is supposed to be kept pulled in the grip through the action of the spring in the clutch pin booth. If the handle is rattling I'd replace the nylon bush.

Well I found this picture;



I see a bolt, wavy washer, and nut which I have on mine. I guess my question is when should it short
retracted or when pulled in. I cannot really see what's going on with the cable attached. I've been
setting it in place with the cable on and no bolt through it but moving it around does not change the
reading...

It should short when retracted.

Often those clutch switches need some encouragement to work. Push the plunger and let it flick out quickly and if it then works soak it in some petrol (gas) then work it around you will be amazed just how much grunge comes out, then it might work again maybe. I have fixed a few but also thrown a few away, the spring inside loses its tension.

The old switch was toast. It never came back out and the inner part rotated. The
new one had intermittent wires and then was also intermittent itself. I cut the
wires down and since my new spray can of DeoxIt came in I gave it a shot of that.
It works fine just not triggered when the lever moves. I did find they sell the bushing
for $2 but I don't have an order right now. So I guess I'll try making my own and see
if that fixes it.

Thanks everyone for all your help! Just a couple more things and I should be up and running!

Just remembered that, many years ago, I used to turn some of the metal body away so that the switch (rear brake in this case) sat deeper in the housing to get it to work. With the later switches I've not had this problem and they are much more reliable than the early switches although they look the same.

Paul.

Well I was looking for something to make a new bushing and I removed the cable to try it
and it worked! I hadn't put the shaft in when I tried it before so it probably was working
all along! So I can try to start it now once I get the fuel pump working. I assume it's not
working as I don't hear it when I turn the key on. It should make some noise right?

Motorandy123 wrote: I assume it's not working as I don't hear it when I turn the key on. It should make some noise right?

It would be correct on Motronic equipped bike, on yours the fuel pump should start when you press the starter button.

Oh OK. I never had it running yet and thought it would pressurize first. I'll just get the
dash back together and give it a go then!

If the fuel system have been emptied, it could be a good idea to just touch the starter button a few times...to fill up the system.
The fuel pump would run a couple of seconds each time.

Will do. That will be a good test to see it is working too!