am rebuilding my k100rs, and am in the rebuilding phase. when installing the alternator seal, I realized that it had been so long since I disassembled it, that I forgot whether the solid side of the seal faced forward or aft. anybody know the orientation?

Hi
Do the photos of my alternator extraction in the 'How to' section help? It show which way around the 'monkey nuts' should be -f that's what you mean?
Dave

thanks for the reply...how do i find your post? can't seem to locate it. does your picture shoe the view with the monkey nut shaft removed?

Not sure this has the detail you need?

http://k100rt.aforumfree.com/t3927-removing-the-alternator-on-a-4-valve-k100

Cheers
Dave

no, i'm looking for the view into the alternator drive shaft hole of the intermediate housing with the monkey nut shaft removed. there's a seal in there and i can't remember which way it faces.

upon closer inspection, the solid side faces aft--no other way to go.

The flat side of the seal goes to the side where you don't want the oil to go.

I replaced my seal last year when I had the alternator problem. This is what I wrote as instructions for another member.

Examine the seal and notice that the sealing membrane is curved. The curve should face inwards, away from the alternator and towards the source of oil.

I replaced this seal about a year ago and just found out that it is still leaking. The seal is installed facing the correct direction, flat side out, sealing lip in. It is a small leak and I can't be sure if it is from the sealing lip or the outer edge of the seal.

I am getting ready to try again with this and just wanted to see if anyone had any advice. I will try lightly sanding the alternator dog shaft. Also, the current seal is installed slightly below the surface of the bell housing. Should it be flush?

Any tips, advice, or previous experience would be appreciated.

thank you,

Bryan

kringb wrote:Also, the current seal is installed slightly below the surface of the bell housing. Should it be flush?

Any tips, advice, or previous experience would be appreciated.

There is a circlip that separates the bearing and seal from each other. The seal is bottomed out on that circlip if below the surface of the housing. Installing the seal flush will relieve pressure on the circlip, but more importantly may allow the seal wiper to contact a non-worn portion of the drive dog shaft. Try mounting it flush or maybe ever so slightly proud.

Thanks, I'll try that.

The holidays have kept me from the bike but I finally got the old seal out and am ready to install a new one. Everything that I have seen makes me think that the leak was coming past the blue goo on the outer wall of the seal. Not past the Teflon portion. I know that when I put the last seal in there was no oil contaminating the mating surface because I had the intermediate housing off the engine and it was totally dry.

So, I am nervous about putting in a new seal without changing anything from the last time. I am tempted to add some sealant on top of the blue goo. Dose anyone have an opinion on that? Or any better recommendation?

Robmack's suggestion to try installing it flush with the surface wouldn't affect a leak on the outer wall of the seal. Also, after looking closely I saw that the edge of the hole is beveled so installing it flush would give less sealing surface.

For anyone interested, I found a likely solution here:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=265016&page=37

That link is full of sealant/threadlocker info and worth looking at. But for the quick answer, 598 Black High Performance RTV silicone around the outside of the seal to lock in that oil.There is also a more involved solution but I am hopeful that this easy one will work because the leak is a very slow weep.

kringb wrote:For anyone interested, I found a likely solution here:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=265016&page=37

Did see that...in the K-bikes forum...H96669.

ok I'm doing all the seals in my bike right now and in all the years of working on bikes i have never had to use and rtv around the seal its rubber coated and if you install it flush all the way in no cocking as its put it they seal off fine best way i know is to find something that is the same size as the outer diamitor of the seal and drive it in square