I have been following Crazy Frog's pictures for the k100 bracket modification to accomodate the screen wormdrive casings but one of the drives is fouling the left fairing mount. the only solution seems to be to let the bracket run between the worm drives. I know this is going to be more difficult when the frame is fixed to the bike. the drive casing is really strong and wont allow me to bend it out of the way but it looks like it is not on its original path.

Left side....



right side - neat fit, very little needed to be removed....



sorry for the small pics but I'm having trouble uploading the bigger ones.

88KE

The cable guides must be fixed with screws at the end, or the mechanism won`t be balanced.
And you would get a uneven lift, then posibbly a stuck mechanism.....burned motor.

You've almost got it, 88KE. I would not recommend bending the guide mechanism to avoid the fairing spider. All that is required is to grind off more of the support bracket to ensure clearance. Grind the left side away up to where the metal of the spider arm bends at 120 degrees. Also grind a little further down than you have done so far -- possibly another 1-2 cm. That should provide the clearance needed. If you have sufficient clearance on the right side, leave it be. However, in my case, I ground away both sides equally seeing as I was not familiar with the exact quantity of metal I should have removed when I first did this modification. I followed Crazy Frog's lead in his writeup.

EDIT: I'm looking closely at the photos you provided and something doesn't look right. I don't like seeing those corrogated cable guides, especially the right hand side with that loop. Have you tested this mechanism on the bench yet? Does it work smoothly in its current form?

[quote="robmack"]You've almost got it, 88KE. I would not recommend bending the guide mechanism to avoid the fairing spider. All that is required is to grind off more of the support bracket to ensure clearance. Grind the left side away up to where the metal of the spider arm bends at 120 degrees. Also grind a little further down than you have done so far -- possibly another 1-2 cm. That should provide the clearance needed.quote]

I was trying to avoid grinding too close to the angle so as not to weaked the bracket too much - maybe a bit more eh?.

The screen is not quite even as it sits, maybe .75cm higher on the left. I figure those corrugations should be in the plate above them. I'll have another go in the morning.

I havent tested it yet. I was hoping to mount it and come back to the wiring, which I haven't quite got my head around. I'm ok with the up and down relay functions but I have to figure out the micro switches yet. I know I have a window switch similar to the one you used somewhere but I cant locate it either . I recon if I can mount it I can could ride as is - it should be ok for me height wise until I can figure the wiring.

thanks for the help.

88

Missed your post Inge before responding to Robmacks. Brain fade or maybe this Bourbon I've treated myself to is working faster than I thought:lol:

Thanks for the diagram theres a little p clip at the end of the pipe which is not connected - I reckon thats the reason for the imbalance in the screen. I shall have to peer into it for longer and see if I can figure out where it has been let go from.

88

Windscreen wiring

BTW. it should be a P-clip to each cable guide, which should be fixed.

Yep inge - one is adrift thats the cause of the problems I think. I will strip and square the mechanism and secure it then I'll have to bench test the movement.



88

Don't fool around physically with the microswitches - that is to say, alter their position relative to the cam. They are set at the factory to ensure the motor rotation stops before the sliders encounter the physical end of the guide rod. If you upset that adjustment, you are in for a world of pain getting it right again (much like altering the butterfly linkage screws on a throttlebody assembly).

The electrical operation is really straight forward (at least for me it is).



The circuit has two logical parts -- the lift/lower relay control logic and the motor control logic.

First the lift/lower relay control logic description. Battery power is fed to the center of the Window adjust switch (L/Y) and each side of that switch goes to one side of the coil of each relay. The other side of the relay coil goes to ground through a given microswitch. Let's say the operator presses the window adjust switch for UP motion. Current will flow through the switch to the lift realy coil, through the Up (micro)switch to ground. The lift realy coil is energized and the windshield moves (we'll get to that description in a minute). When the cam on the motor encounters the limit, the Up microswitch opens, breaking the circuit and the relay coil de-energizes and the motor stops. The exact same operation happens if the Window adjust switch is pressed for DOWN motion. A consequence of the cam design is that at no time are both microswitches open -- there are always at least one switch closed, making contact.

Second the motor control logic. Battery power is wired to the N/O (pin 87) of each relay through the R/L wire and ground is wired to the N/C (pin 87A) of each relay through the Br wire. The common contact (pin 30) on each relay is wired to one or the other side of the motor (Gr and L wires). In a rest state, each side of the motor is grounded and remains so unless the button is pressed. Let's say the operator pushes the Window Adjust switch for UP motion -- the Lift relay energizes and the relay contact switches battery power to the Gr wire. The power travels through the motor windings through the Lower relay to ground. The motor rotates. When the button is released or the micro switch limit encountered, power is cut to the relay, the contacts drop and power is cut to the motor. Now, if the operator presses the Window Adjust switch for DOWN motion, the Lower relay is energized and power travels through the L wire, through the lift relay to ground. the motor reverses direction because the direction of the current flow is reversed. The windshield lowers until the switch is released or the limit encountered.

This description will help to debug wiring problems. For example, to bench test the windshield, apply power directly to the motor in different polarities to see that the motor is functional. Understanding the operation will lead you to understand that at no time can both switches be open; only one is open at any one time when a limit is encountered or both are closed during travel.

Here's a handlebar switch for you. Just need to change the plug to suit K100

Fantastic description Robmack. Thats cleared up my understanding & I feel more confident tackling the wiring now. Wow!

88

Rick G wrote:Here's a handlebar switch for you. Just need to change the plug to suit K100

Can't see a link Rick

88

88KE wrote:Fantastic description Robmack.

+1........should be placed in the how to section.

88KE wrote:

Rick G wrote:Here's a handlebar switch for you. Just need to change the plug to suit K100

Can't see a link Rick

88

http://www.ebay.com/itm/97-BMW-K1100LT-Left-Hand-Combo-Switch-w-Power-Screen-/360464120251?hash=item53ed55f9bb&item=360464120251&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

Hmmm Must be the banana wine Sorry about that

I added the circuit operation descriptijon to the thread that Crazy Frog started about adding the K1100 windshield to the K-bike.

That switch seems expensive at its Buy Now price. Frankenduck sells these same switches on www.kbikeparts.com for less. Search his page for part number 61312305231.

I made a bit of progress today. The mechanism was stuck so I freed that and was then able to reseat the cable guides and worm and reattach the hard pipes with the P clips and modifying the bracket to fit.

The question is why was it stuck? I didn't get as far as making a test loom to see if the motor works but will progress that during the week. Hope the PO wasn't blatently dishonest, he assured me the screen was working when removed from his bike!

88KE