Looking for a way to replace my breather hose that doesn't require a lot of work, mines leaking everywhere was working in tight spot to get the hose clamp off of the lower part of the hose closest to the crankcase when I saw that OEM shows only one hose clap but it's up top, not below. I don't see another one on my bike, unless it's inside the Air Accumulator box? If that's the case how do I get inside the Air Accu box without tearing the bike apart? It's a really tight spot. Barely any room to move. Tried pulling the hose out at the top however it doesn't want to come out. Anyone replace one of these before? The hose I"m talking about is #10 on this diagram: http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0533&mospid=51709&btnr=11_4676&hg=11&fg=11

TSBT wrote:Looking for a way to replace my breather hose that doesn't require a lot of work

That rules out my help on this one! I only disconnected mine to replace it once i had the engine out of the frame!

The hose shown in the drawing is for a 2V.
On the 4V it look like this:



Other end is connected to the oil separator inside the top half of the air filter housing (top, front).

Although my reply doesn't specifically address this member's concerns, when asking a question of other forum members it's always good to have the bike's details available to us. At one time those vital details were a part of our profile but that seems to have disappeared. I know that we can go have a squiz at their specific profile info and possibly get it from there, but then quite often like the answer we are seeking in our query, it is only a matter of doing a basic search.

Perhaps the bike specifics should be a compulsory part of our post, which would save us all a whole heap of time...

thats cool inge ...hadnt seen the insides of the 1100 and 4 valve 100 air box before ....explains a lot ...thanks

Guest in the House wrote: At one time those vital details were a part of our profile but that seems to have disappeared.

I did removed it because some people were writing a whole paragraph about the bike that they ride. To compensate, I asked members to include the type of bike they are riding into their signature.

So then it behooves the 'question asker' to spill at least some basic beans about what their bike is since the avatar/profile pictures are small (I can see the three spoke wheels and know from that it could be a 16V, for example) so we can more readily answer their query. Fortunately many of us 'in the know' have a good understanding of what the differences might be. Inge, as per usual, managed to get to the gristle on the bones in nice detail after he sussed out the dilemma. Go Inge!

Inge nailed it. Hey GITH, it's a 4V updated my signature with the valves So the question becomes, is this hose something that can be replaced without dropping the engine? In OEM the hose is short, the one you pictured Inge is quite long, is it two separate peices? Is there a hose clamp in the box that makes pulling the hose without an engine drop impossible? I'm all about short cuts

Remove the right hand side fairing panel, and the left side too. This will give you access to the air flter housing halves. Now unclip them and slide out the air filter, remove or slacken the large hose clamp on the air ducts, turn over the top air filter half and go to town. It helps to have the tank off as well because then you can reach down from above to access things a bit easier. It will be a tight fit, can be frustrating, but then this sort of thing is not often replaced on the later models. The earlier model use a short, lazy 'S' shaped hose that's external and it's readily accessible, but due to that tends to fatigue and perish more readily. The bike will run like crap with a crack or split in that hose. Check that the oil filler cap O-ring is in good nick and tightens easily too.

There is no 'engine drop' in K Bike terms. It is a main component, a stressed member and not possible unless you're removing the frame from the motor, which requires far more effort than you'll likely need to make to perform your appointed task for the weekend. Everything you need to do is accessed with the bike complete, and engine insitu, just remove some of the objects that block your path.

If you're gunna reference RealOem you need to be sure you're picking the correct model. I suggest using the VIN. There are early and late catalogues and yours will always be the K100 model that shares the K1 information. I don't remember if the 16V motors also use the short hose. If they do look above the ignition coils at the back end of the TB rack. It will be clearly visible.

The hose will not come easily you need to remove thr top of the airfilter box and have a look. You will see it once off and from there it is easy.
Bad news I had to mend mine with some silicone tape because I could not find one new.

TSBT wrote:In OEM the hose is short, the one you pictured Inge is quite long, is it two separate peices?

Second time.........the hose shown in the drawing is for a 2V.

In the part diagrams often the same drawings is used for a lot of different models, and because of that it isn`t always that each part is shown in detail as in the real world....but the part description and part # is correct.

I`ll guess if you seek the 2V drawing, it would be identical....and with same description but another part #.

As earlier mentioned (and shown in the second picture)the other end is connected to the oil separator in the upper air filter housing, and you need to remove that one from the bike to get acces to it.

I should probably put NEWBIE in massive letters across my profile. First timer, go easy.

Thanks GITH appreciate the details, I'll give it a shot. Relieved it's possible to gain access without much engine removal.

Sorry Inge, mis-read your note. Guess I should post my VIN on here?

I don't want K1 parts for my RS, I'll search my VIN next time so that I'm not rubbing everyone the wrong way.

Could be the Bloody Mary's

Cheers

TSBT wrote:I should probably put NEWBIE in massive letters across my profile. First timer, go easy.

Thanks GITH appreciate the details, I'll give it a shot. Relieved it's possible to gain access without much engine removal.

Sorry Inge, mis-read your note. Guess I should post my VIN on here?

I don't want K1 parts for my RS, I'll search my VIN next time so that I'm not rubbing everyone the wrong way.

Could be the Bloody Mary's

I think you're misunderstanding a bit about the catalogue. BMW always listed the 16V K100 parts along with the K1 model. Never use the earlier 'Archive' K100/RS/RT/LT catalogue because there are too many differences, those were 8V motors with an entirely different injection system, brakes, final drive, etc. The VIN would be for your use when looking up your own part numbers (and diagrammes) on places like www.realoem.com

I hope that helps.

GITH....the link in the first post shows the correct model code, so that is correct enough.
But now and then the drawing isn`t always accurate...as earlier mentioned.

Yes, Inge, the idiosyncracies of BMW's otherwise excellent ETK.

For a long while if you wanted the 20mm front brake master cylinder rebuild kit, which as you know many models used, you had to look it up in the R850R catalogue. It was clearly shown but not listed by part number in any other. That's been remedied these days. I dunno how many times I had to tell my parts guys to take a closer look before they told the customer it was NLA.

Go figure!