I started to tear into my K100RS at seven AM this morning to get to a chronic 'weepy' seal between the engine and the gearbox and to check the condition of the splines and whether they needed lube.



It doesn't take long to get it down to the essentials. I had it to where I wanted it within two hours with stops for two cups of strong tea. I've propped up the back
end under the subframe rails with a sturdy sawhorse and a scissor jack
under the motor to fine tune the height. It is stable and all bits are easily accessible. Removing the entire exhaust made it easier to access.



The clutch splines and front driveshaft splines were still slightly 'wet'
with lube, and look very good, they'd been done two years ago (a
negligent-of-me 50,000 kms ago). There is some very minor 'mountain-ing'
occurring on the tips of the rear end splines which I'd noticed then
but attended to last tyre change at 16,500 kms ago. The driveshaft is in
good nick overall and I'll just keep lubing them at each tyre change
until it's no longer useable. I realise they can disappear fast once
wear has set in.



The rear main seal is the leaker, the others all
dry and tight, though I failed to procure a friction disc beforehand as
I reckoned (wrongly) it was in good enough nick and can see now that
it's nearly down to the rivets. I don't have an o-ring for the gland
nut. I also don't have access to a 30mm socket at the mo' to remove the
gland nut. The gear position sensor's hard sealant went brittle and
flaked off around where the multiple wires enter the back of the switch.
I'll have to seal it up with Drei Bond or the like before re-assembly.
They're a bit too spendy to replace just because of that and it works as
intended.



The gearbox had been dripping a small amount of gear
oil to the ground whenever I parked it. The culprit is the 'new' clutch
boot at the rear lever, that I fitted a coupla months ago when I
replaced the bearings in the lever, which now has a small tear in it.
It'd been raining pretty hard the last week or so before I went away to
Victoria. The gearbox had water in it once again. The gravelly feel I'd
noted the past few days when I pulled in the clutch lever is because of
sand and grit entering the 'box in the area of the clutch pushrod. I will be fabricating a splash shield at the leading edge of the rear mudguard like the K1100 models have.



The gearbox sounds smooth and quiet when I spin the splines by hand so I'm hoping the bearings didn't take a big hit when the small amount of grit and water entered through the torn clutch lever boot. I'll fill the box to the correct level with Castrol EPX 80W90 and give it a day or two of hot running then drain and fill the 'box again to remove any debris that might be floating about.



This has all gone pear-shaped in a hurry. Never mind, it's a beaut Sunday in paradise. I can see a hire car to get to work on Tuesday as this bike is my sole
transport and my other two bikes are in storage or unregistered. From
there a bike borrowed from work will get me back and forth until the
spares arrive. My hands are tied, so I'll just sit back and enjoy the
four day weekend and wait for MotoGP to come on. Time for a coldie.

It's good to get to the heart of things and be able to have a good look at it all. Cheers.

Good on you mate, pity of the boot! Couldn't you fit the part from the 1100 as an extension to your current mudguard?

ReneZ wrote:Good on you mate, pity of the boot! Couldn't you fit the part from the 1100 as an extension to your current mudguard?

Nuh, it's a different design and K1100 models have a Paralever swingarm/final drive. It's not too terribly difficult to fab a plastic extension attached to the current mudguard. I shoulda done it ages ago.

I wouldn't mind having a new clutch disc & etc., at me fingertips right now though. The bike's sitting out there in the garage in the darkness waiting for me to get the parts, with one more day of the holiday weekend to go, and there's nada I can do 'bout it.

No riding tomorrow...

just checked ...i have a 30mm socket for the nut ......1/2 inch drive type

but no luck with the boot mate ...some thing i had thought of but didnt get yet ..as i also need one pretty much right now



im home.... if i can help at all ....

If the boot is in good condition other than the split clean it with acetone and use superglue on it. I did it on a swingarm boot 5 years ago and it is still ok. Just make sure the boot is at body temp before putting the glue on it.
If it will get you out of the C**t I have a good clutch plate and a small shaft seal (new) and an O ring (also new).

Thanks for the tips, mates. A mate of mine who worked with leather had a tough brown glue that he did his Airhead's torn swingarm boot with and it lasted for ages. In fact, I think I remember the rubber around the glue perishing long before the glue failed. If I can just get to work Tuesday I can get a bike to ride while I wait for the parts to arrive (the perfectionist in me wants new parts and to do it once) then it's all bit easier.

Nice one Cyril
tell me how hard was it to remove the whole exhaust from the manifold outlets down?. I tried to separate the manifold pipes from the muffle once and without heat was a nightmare.
Hope it's all coming together again mate
RT

RT wrote:Tell me how hard was it to remove the whole exhaust from the manifold outlets down? I tried to separate the manifold pipes from the muffle once and without heat was a nightmare.
RT

Eight 13mm nuts at the exhaust flanges and the two 10mm nuts at the rear mount and she was off. I have a Motad muffler and they don't use clamps like OEM does. The entire exhaust system came off as one piece. It's a practice run for the black ceramic headers and Supertrapp cannister I'll be fitting to the bike in a few weeks' time. Vrooom.

Rick G wrote:If it will get you out of the C**t I have a good clutch plate and a small shaft seal (new) and an O ring (also new).

Thanks, Rick. Let's see how it goes over the next few days...what brand replacement disc is it? I can get an Eye-talian version from the Boys at the 'Bins for about sixty shekels, plus Royal Mail's excess. I know BMW Australia stock the gland nut o-ring, and I have two spare seals in my stock. Shoulda had at least the disc to hand...gotta do a personal spares stocktake soon.

No where did I once read that a certain automobile disc fits as original?

Thanks, yeah, I read that one earlier, nothing was conclusive and sounds like far too much effort to save a few coins. Thanks.

charlie99 wrote:just checked ...i have a 30mm socket for the nut ......1/2 inch drive type. im home.... if i can help at all ....

Chazza,
in Narangba where the garage floor is clean and tidy, except for my motorbike detritus scattered about. I too have a 30mm socket, but it's in my toolbox at work. I thought I had one in my toolbox here, but need that gland nut o-ring before I can do anything with the rear main seal anyway. But if you feel like burbling up this way today, sunny holiday Monday and all, at least I could get it out of there and you could have a look at the innards. Alternately, I will be back up here after work this week wrapping it up at night.

If you can do it, SMS or PM me and I'll give you the new address.

Cheers.

Does this forum rock, or what!? Rick G, Charlie99 and me are meeting up to do a swap of goods and tools and the bike will hopefully be back together tonight. Roll on
mighty-K and those who love and care for them..
Cheers.

turns out my nail in car tyre wasnt as bad as i thought .....

looks like aratula coffee shop better get an iced coffee ready for me ...

here we go back out in the back lots again ....giggle



nice to meet the mates again ....parts and tools delivered ....

good luck gith ....!!!!

1.15AM Tuesday morning. The new disc provided by Rick G (K Freak) and rear main seal are in, the old boot's glued together until I can get a new one, and holding. I have grease under my fingernails up to my elbows and in my hair - what's left of it! Thanks to both Charlie for the tool loan and to Rick for riding halfway of a three hundred kilometre return trip to give me the disc. A replacement's on its way shortly!

I've just hit the starter button (it's quiet in the neighbourhood at this late hour) and the bike settled into a steady idle. No oil leaks. No exhaust leaks. I have to be up at 6.00 for an 8.00 AM start at work....time to take my first sickie in yonks. I need a sleep in.

Cheers.

Dear guest, usual leaker on K 100 is rubber ring behind big nut which connects clutch and crankshaft. Of course better is to change everything, but I changed that rubber ring, big nut, friction plate with six bolts (reccomended) and seal on the transmission (engine side). Did it year ago, drove 15 thousand kms, no leakage at all.
There is possibility to put oil resistant clutch plate, but its expensive

Nino,
thanks for the advice. Of course one cannot easily change the rear main seal without changing the gland nut o-ring since it hinders removal of the flywheel, and mine was no exception. It was hard and brittle and came out in pieces. A new one went in. Since I didn't expect to have to swap the disc I had to re-use the six bolts but with a dab of locktite and the proper torque they will be fine. Whomever was in there before me hadn't tightened those bolts sufficiently! They spun out with no real force. The gearbox input seal was dry, as was the alternator shaft seal. But what a job getting the new 'monkee nuts' back into their damper housing. I used a bit of lube and after a while in they went, proving once again that everything in life is easier with proper lubrication.

another good result gith ....cheers !

I managed a bit of a sleep in, rang work and told them I needed a few more hours until I start. I have to take the bike for a test ride, see if she's good to go, before blasting down the motorway for 45 minutes after having done that much work. Little things missed can spell disaster.

I do have some faith in my abilities but when I woke up the first thing I did was wander out to the garage, switch on the light, and look to see that there wasn't a puddle of oil under the bike!

After two days of riding to and from work, and about 300 kms I am really glad I was able to get the splines properly lubed (and replace the clutch disc), the clutch action is so light and progresssive, it feels like someone else's bike. I swear I've found some new horsepower, the bike is vibrating less, the mirrors are clearer, the tyres grip the tarmac like Jorge Lorenzo's M1 at Qatar, with the mileage returned the tank could take me to the moon and back, that leggy blonde in the convertible next to me on the motorway mouthed out the words, 'I want your phone number', and best of all, this glass of beer is actually getting colder as I sip it. I can't explain it.

nice job

crikey .....settle down gith! ...im sure its just liz ...saying "welcome back from the garage....hope you left it clean !!!"

grin

Guest in the House wrote:After two days of riding to and from work, and about 300 kms I am really glad I was able to get the splines properly lubed (and replace the clutch disc), the clutch action is so light and progresssive, it feels like someone else's bike. I swear I've found some new horsepower, the bike is vibrating less, the mirrors are clearer, the tyres grip the tarmac like Jorge Lorenzo's M1 at Qatar, with the mileage returned the tank could take me to the moon and back, that leggy blonde in the convertible next to me on the motorway mouthed out the words, 'I want your phone number', and best of all, this glass of beer is actually getting colder as I sip it. I can't explain it.

Gith...Gith....GITH.....wake up man you're still dreaming!

Sorry about that, I knew you were talking in your sleep when you said the beer was getting colder. The rest is totally believable!!

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Oh, is that what that was.....just a dream? The leggy blonde made me tea this morning before work. She already had my number.

Over the past few weeks since performing the spline lube (all three) and replacing the clutch disc and seals I have enjoyed the renewed smoothness and revability of the ol' K100RS. The bike definitely feels better under me. It had prior exhibited a particularly nasty and intense vibe at about 110-115 kph and about 4500+ rpm which seemed to grow steadily worse over the past two years. Of course I have tightened things up as I bolted it all back together that might not have been properly torqued, but I believe that a combination of things contributed to the vibes. The splines appeared wet but were probably not slipping easily through their range of motion. The pressure plates are purportedly dobbed with a dash of paint to indicate proper alignment of the three pieces to the flywheel (supposedly for balance), but I spotted none and fitted it as I felt. Perhaps I landed on the magic balance point. It's like when you give it a good cleaning and she seems to hum down the road in the sunshine all glowy and new-feeling. Maybe it's just me. Either way, I love the ol' girl. She's gettin' a new set of sneakers, a rear brake disc and some fresh pads over the next few days.

Good one GiTH - it's nice when it goes back together better than before (and with no bits left over )

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