I've read the "stuck oil filter" correspondence from May last year, and would just like to ask a couple of questions in addition. Does anyone have any other methods of routinely removing a K100 filter and installing the new one without the BMW tool? I can't get one here (Cape Town) at the moment, and anyway it's an expensive item here, it seems. (Which is likely, as that is true for anything that's Beemer.) The screwdriver penetration option does seem a bit vicious, although my concern is rather how one gets the right tightness on the replacement filter, given that you don't have the appropriate tool.

"Crazy Frog", if you're out there: do I understand correctly that you suggest filling the filter with oil prior to installation? The handbook gives two engine oil capacities at oil change, one when the filter is replaced and one when it isn't, the difference obviously being the filter capacity. Is there any particular reason why you suggest not just oiling the seal but filling the filter? If one does so, then when replacing the oil you would use the lower capacity recommendation, I imagine.

Cheers, All. Thanks for the Forum.

Hey Mike

The reason that I fill up the filter is that I don't like to have my oil pump running dry (even for few seconds). The other reason is that when the filter is pre-filled, when filling up the engine you just have to look at the site glass. Usually, If I fill it up to 3/4 of the site glass I don't have to add any oil after. I never rely on the book for oil quantity. The site glass is what count.

A filter wrench is cheap here in Cdn. I may be able to send you one. Just contact me by Email.

Cheers

Bert

Old post but not many suggestions how to get the oil filter off and the new one tightened enough with out a special tool.

Any one?

I don't think there is any easy way to do it without the tool, except removing the whole oilpan and using the age old method of punching it with a screwdriver.

Get the tool - it's pretty cheap and makes the job a whole lot easier.

Corkboy wrote:I don't think there is any easy way to do it without the tool, except removing the whole oilpan and using the age old method of punching it with a screwdriver.

Get the tool - it's pretty cheap and makes the job a whole lot easier.

I was lucky that the local bike shop will lent me one tomorrow, how ever this link could be usefull to others:

https://youtu.be/L9t6cUCwXRg

There is no problem in doing it without the tool. You just remove the bottom cover AFTER draining the oil. Slightly messy but not a problem. Refitting the bottom cover uses a sealant instead of a gasket. Once its off you can access the messy oil covered filter.

Fitting new filter is easier as its only done up hand tight. Put the new filter in before replacing the bottom cover. You can in theory take off the circular cover and put the filter back through the hole after replacing the bottom cover but you won't have finger room to tighten the filter even to hand tight, that's why you need the tool to fit the new filter.

Danish, the tool is pretty easy to come by. Just ask in your local automotive store or auto trade supplier for a cup type filter wrench. You can buy them online very cheap. Be aware tho that they come in different sizes. Find a filter like a Ryco Z418 or similar, that you can easily get hold of every time, and buy a filter wrench to suit.
You can even buy an adjustable oil filter wrench like this.

As Olaf says, its a good idea to prefill the filter not only for the pump's sake but also for the engine. After an oil change there is very little oil 'up top' and if there's no oil in the filter then it will run cold for a second or two without oil. This is when damage will occur.

When installing the filter, smear oil on the filter seal and do it up finger tight then wrench it just half a turn.... no more.

The original tool from BMW is Hazet 2169.

Thanks. Holister I like the adjustable tool  How ever I'll go by the local bike shop and borrow the tool (for free ).

http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/BMW-Oil-Filter-Wrench-Tool-BMW-R-and-K-p/of-wrench14f448.htm

It doesn't answer your question about it being stuck now, but if you were looking for one here's a place to get one over on this corner. It doesn't appear too pricey and they ship worldwide.

Good luck.
Cheer.

I bought an adjustable one, just for the fun. Of course it won't fit but I was aware that it might not work so I borrowed the one from the bike shop and it worked great.

Tanks for your answers 

You can use a cup type oil filter wrench, these are available in a number of sizes from your local auto parts store.  Take a new filter with you to find one that will fit.

As for pre-filling the filter with oil, not absolutely necessary, but a good idea.  If the filter is not full after it's been changed the engine will run for a few seconds (maybe 5 to 7) with no oil pressure.  In the service manual BMW suggests pre-filling the filter when it's installed, this is what I do and the oil pressure comes right up after the engine is started after and oil and filter change.

- B

I use a piece of PVC sewer pipe. I do not know the exact diameter, but the outher diameter is about the same as the filter. i cut a piece of about 12cm and heated one side with a heat blower gun. You push it over the wrench side of a new filter and let it cool. Once cooled you have a perfect and cheap filter wrench.

Crazy Frog wrote:Hey Mike

The reason that I fill up the filter is that I don't like to have my oil pump running dry (even for few seconds). The other reason is that when the filter is pre-filled, when filling up the engine you just have to look at the site glass. Usually, If I fill it up to 3/4 of the site glass I don't have to add any oil after. I never rely on the book for oil quantity. The site glass is what count.

A filter wrench is cheap here in Cdn. I may be able to send you one. Just contact me by Email.

Cheers

Bert

Unless you're waiting a long, long time between draining and refilling, your oil pump is never running dry. There's plenty of residual oil left on the parts even after you've drained it.

Am I the only one that uses filters that have a nut attached to the bottom (top?) of the filter?  I've never had an issue with them and any tool kit will have a wrench that will fit the nut.  No need to purchase/carry a special tool.

https://www.amazon.com/KN-163-BMW-High-Performance-Filter/dp/B000E28CBS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1472739826&sr=8-3&keywords=oil+filter+for+1989+bmw+k100

Darrin

Realising that this is an older thread...it's fun to see how common issues reoccur over time. I just changed the oil on a K100 in my garage. As I was unscrewing the three bolt cover to allow the oil to drain away from the filter cavity, I saw what apeared to be an aftermarket oil filter case in black. In fact it was the inexpensive black oil filter tool that the  last person in there had left attached to the oil filter. No harm done, plenty of room and no paint came off it and ran through the engine, but I could imagine him wandering about the garage later, scratching his head, saying, "Now where did my filter tool get to!?

The last two (a K&N and an off brand) oil filters I have removed from bikes I've worked on have stripped the tacked on 'nut' right off with the lightest of mechanical force. I'm sure the guts of K&N filters are acceptable, having cut one of them open to view the filtration media and pressure relief valve's construction, but the method of removal leaves a lot to be desired. The worst part is the hot, used oil dripping all over the place after having to puncture the can to twist it off. How much in the manufacturing process are they really saving by not impressing wrench 'flutes' into the filter case but leaving them smooth and round?! I am not a fan.

When you purchase Motobins' oil filters a tool is supplied with each filter, last time I bought eight in an order. In the US, Tucker Rocky sell a $9.00 filter tool made of stamped steel that fits BMW OEM (11421460845, 11427721779, 11427719857 & etc) oil filters without the price of the BMW Hazet tool. You can purchase one of those from any motorbike shop.

Two Wheels Better wrote:Realising that this is an older thread..

Older thread but new audience. at least in my case.
So I am in the middle of going through my 87 K100RS having not yet driven it. We just got 20" of snow so it will be a while.  Oil change and dropping the oil pan to see what the PO did or did not do.  There was a persistent leak from the cold bike, a couple drops every day, surely the warm bike will leak much more.  taking the lower fairing off it was gooey with oil. So I am reading about where the leaks often come from, not he main, the oil pan edge does not appear to be leaking but the round cover does.  Not much crud in the main pan (good), the o-ring was well sealed with excess rtv. But still leaked.  so I examine the mating surface on the oil pan where the round cover goes, the aluminum surface which is smooth everywhere else looks like it has ripples, and irregularities. kinda like when you try to spread cold butter on your toast.  not gouges but maybe cut marks  probably from an errant razor blade scraper. I thought about sanding it smooth but also thought a machinist would be able to resurface it. Then the cost factor came to mind and I realize a replacement oil pan is going to be cheaper than a half hour at a machine shop. hope the new pan solves the problem, since I have identified it I am sure it will.  next question is on the heat shield which attaches to the (passenger side?) right side of the oil pan with pins and grommets?  I can't see a good picture so I assume this is what is standard.  The left side has some nice rubber bumpers with mounted studs, but these pins look very different.

I think those items you mention on the left side of the oil pan relate to mountings for the belly pan or engine bars. They are also on my LT which was a police bike and presumably had the bars on it before it came to me.

The cuts and gouges may have been caused by a previous owner trying to remove the oil filter without having the tool or without dropping the oil pan.

yes, my bike had crash bars at one time, no longer present. so that could explain some things. 
the oil filter removal without the proper tool makes sense.  I can now picture one of those serrated tooth filter wrenches, some skinned knuckles and some swearing.