I have been told today by the guy searching for a rear drive unit for my 6/89 K that he has found a reco'd unit with a 32/11 ratio. It is an earlier model 16 tooth spline, so we are swapping my drive shaft for a matching one and the rear drive unit (plus some $s of course). Does having less teeth with a larger surface area make these a bit sturdier? Said items are in the post and should be here in a week or so.

So hopefully this will complete the puzzle and I will have the girl back on the road by the end of March. I may need to start another thread but does anyone know what the four switches on the handlebar pad are for? Starting from the left I have Hazard lights, then one with a horn symbol, then one with what looks like a light and then one that has a blue patch that lights up on high beam (I am guessing for the spotlights that were fitted, I am going to replace these). It is the two in the middle I am interested in as there are a couple of things I would like to wire up so there is an off switch to save the battery and hopefully, if these aren't wired to anything, I can use them. Like an intercom system I have and some heated grips I am getting. It is an ex Qld Police bike.

hi dave...i recon the bigger teeth on the 16 spline last longer ...and fitt up better in my opionion ....good work mate

the pad at the front usually as stock only has the hazard swith (exteeme left hand side ) fitted, on the rt models at least. the rest are blanks .

i would have at a guess being an ex cop bike that the blue light pole etc would have been wired through the extra switches .

if they are still there ...you've done well at about $40.00 each they are expensive little suckers

i would be guessing that the under tank connections to the ancillary equipment will have been chopped off ...uncerimoniusly

a little bit of figuring out and you should be able to put them to use easy ... (lucky bugga)

can i suggest using relays for the load switching operations ...as most of the wiring in the loom is quite ...erm light duty

good luck mate

if there is something in particular i can help with ...just yell

Thanks for that Charlie, I am definately no elecical guru. I can recognise a switch 2 out of 3 times. That would also account for the piece of twinflex behind the headlight that appears to have been cut off. I will have to trace it back to see where it goes and if one of the switches powers it up. I have a baehr intercom system I picked up cheap but it relies on whether a headset is plugged in to turn it on. I would rather have a switch so if no headset then definately no power. I would also like to wire up a set of heated grips via a seperate switch. The result if you leave these little suckers on is not pretty.

I will have to look but I am guessing the switches already go through a load relay. I noticed a couple of extra relays in the relay box that do not appear in the manual.

My first task will be the intercom as I have got a radio to go in and I nead the headset to listen as I am not installing speakers. It is a GME marine AM/FM radio and I am going to fit it into the LH glove box in such a way that the lid will still go on. I am using a flexible antenna that will go around the inside of the fairing. That way when the lid is on there will be no indication that the radio is even there.

hmm

a bit of forward planning might be in order dave .

by the sound of it, you plan a few things not quite beyond the norm i guess .

but may i offer a suggestion straight off... well a couple actually

our man alby ...has recently bought some fuse holders ...(pc board mount types ) for integration into the fuse area of the under tank "electrics box " might be a good idea to make contact with him to see how that turned out or at least to see some of the homework he has already done .

the reason for mentioning this ..could be comforting ..long term if you can isolate future issues electrically ....and spread the load across the cabling that you may choose to use to your devices planned .

what im suggesting is to run a "central additional power rail " powered from an additional eye lug ..taken from the input of the starter relay (5mm bolt ?) and at least 2.5 mm - 4mm copper multicore cable to the fuse input rail .

the outputs of these fuses could then be wired to attach to the various relays for operation as required ...(radio etc )

as required i would be picking off a "live when ignition on ....but load shed relay activation" .."hot cable" for supply to the various switch positives that you plan to use ....

have a look at the interactive electrical diagrams for this .."magic " wire colour . using relay switching you minimise the load on this circuit as installed to the bike as the load by most relays is under 50 milliamps each (thats .05 amps )...but provide many possibilities for in the future needs .

also have a look at the diagrams for the magic "lights on (parkers ) ...but still load shed switched "..(positive) + cable for your headlight stuff in day running mode ....and the low beam ...and high beam positive cables ...(these are the ones that may have suffered from major over heating if high powered globes were installed by the previous owner ..likely although illegal ...but still likely )

dave
mine is ex police also it had twin wire floating around headlight turned out to be park light wire
when installing my radio i took power off one of the unused plug under tank /seat comes on when ignition switch is on acc
when extra police was installed /removed to call it a butchers job would be a compliment wires were chopped and left to dangle, some places where it joined into wiring harness were just twisted together then a bit of tape to look pretty
i removed all that was not factorty wiring from the bike and ran new stuff then if i have a problem in the future at least i know what i am looking at