I 've been stripping the fairings off the LT for the first time - a bit if a steep learning curve no aided by previous owners not putting things back properly. The main aim is to repair a cracked side panel. Since I'll be fiber glassing the Radiator Surrround I might as well do the side panel at the same time.

A stong smell of petrol and a damp looking rubber attracted my attention...







Looking at the tank on the other side there appears to be some paint blisters forming in the same area



Does this mean my tank is buggered or on the way out or has anyone got thoughts or experience on what to expect?

88KE

I only wanted to paint the bloody radiator grille

Springing a leak there is very common. I have fixed a few and have t tanks here and both leak there. The water and crud collect there as it's the lowest point.
I just sand the area back to the bare aluminium and the stuff I use to patch it is made by Permatex, it's a two part epoxy strip that is it comes in a strip with one side of the strip mixed with the other side by kneeding it. when it is mixed well it gets a bit softer and then you stick it to the aluminium and let it cure for a day or two and sets as hard as a rock. I was only today looking at the first tank I repaired and it is still good after 5 years. You gotta get the one for fuel tanks.
http://www.passionauto.co.uk/products/permatex-fuel-tank-and-radiator-repair-kit.html

I would recommend Araldit epoxy as it`s having a thinner viscosity and penetrates better.
Marvelous stuff, used it for all kind of repairs over the years......
also engine covers that had holes scraped through due to accidents.



Inge K.

Thanks guys. An exterior patch repair should be ok so.
Inge, I wonder if that is the same product as "Araldite" here - looks very similar.

On the other hand that stuff on KFreak's link looks like handy goo to have in the workshop.
88

88KE wrote:Inge, I wonder if that is the same product as "Araldite" here - looks very similar.

It is a whole of different kinds of Araldit for different use, it meant to be used
as adhesive....but I`ve used it to a lot of different kind of repairs over the years.

On the picture it`s the DIY fast curing, I`ve used DIY standard curing mainly
(blue packaging) as it have better mechanical properties (also used heat curing
when it have been possible).

19 years ago I used it on a kerosene tank inside the house, which was leaking
in the bottom due to corrosion.
And did think to myself, this is temporary untill I get a new one......not needed
so far.

Araldit

Inge K.

That would be the Araldite Rapid then Inge, good stuff so is the stuff mentioned by K Freak we have used this to repair engine sumps and fuel tanks in the field version's of it can even be machined on a lathe, the success of any product is preparation.

BIG D

Last Spring I sealed the interior of a m/c fuel tank with a Caswell product, with excellent results. Consequently I find myself wondering why folks recommend a repair to the exterior of the tank. Completely sealing the interior would preclude further leaks in other corners of the tank.
Does the fact that there is a fuel pump and related hardware in K100 tanks mean interior coating are not practical?

"frost" www.frost.co.uk who are restore specialist's do internal coatings for motorcycles in a multi part kit which also seals leaking tanks, and puts a coating inside to protect the tank from the ravages of modern fuel as well as from the elements. I hope to look into this further as I believe brickrider has a point.

BIG D

[/quote]>I only wanted to paint the bloody radiator grille [/quote]

Keep the faith mate! I went to paint my radiator grille as well and have now embarked on an induction/ throttle body and coolant system rebuild plus a new exhaust and fittings. My tank is also ropey on the same places as yours - although no leaks yet, so i reckon I'll sand it gently back to prepare the surface and put some reinforcing epoxy stuff on it as a preventative.

I'm waiting for the point when I don't uncover any more things I 'need' to fix. We all have a line we're comforatble with, I guess mine is trying to get it safe, reliable and passably smart - can't be far away now!

Best
Dave

Hi 88
I've read that ethanol disolves epoxy resin so I would look for a sealant that claims to be ethanol resistant. I assume that your petrol in Ireland has, like us, 5% ethanol. The Permatex stuff is specifically for petrol tanks, so that might be the best option.
Paul.

BIG D wrote:That would be the Araldite Rapid then Inge,

???

sidecar paul wrote:I assume that your petrol in Ireland has, like us, 5% ethanol.

Then, keep an eye on the rubber parts that come in contact with the fuel.
Especially the fuel pump mounting, these rubber parts in our old K`s isn`t
made for having a party 24/7.

Inge K.

MT350Explorer wrote:

>I only wanted to paint the bloody radiator grille [/quote]

We all have a line we're comforatble with, I guess mine is trying to get it safe, reliable and passably smart..Dave[/quote]

That's exactly what I'm aiming for Dave.

Thanks for all the input guys - I was leaning toward the Araldite (Araldit) until that last comment from Sidecar Paul. Now I have to do a bit of checking. I was also given a tin of Devcon Aluminium Putty by a Marine Engineer pal (He called me to look at his van coz I'm more experienced with small diesel engines than him! ). It's very expensive stuff and he's used it at sea to perform permanent repairs and swears by it but he too saw the logic of using Araldite for a small repair.

Anyway I'm now reading up the removal proceedure for the fuel tank from (Zonenfile's) scanned manual. That's the bedtimne reading and tomorrow nights entertainment sorted!

88

That Devcon is astounding stuff. Many years ago a race engine let go in a big way and I didnt have a spare at the time because of other failures and I used devcon to repair the crankcase where a rogue conrod had escaped in a hurry. I used those cases for many more races and they were still good when I sold the lot after I called it a day

Update....

with the tank emptied and off a couple of quick strokes of a wire brush blew a hole in it that took me back a bit ! There wasn't much more than the paint and laquer holding the gas in. Good job I kept poking at it or I'd have been in real danger of flambé-ing the old K....



aprox 12mm long at the worst point and 9mm wide Adaldite wasn't going to get me out of this one. It was definitely a job for the Devcon.

The blisters on the other side were nothing more than a bit of surface oxidation where the paint had been chipped before.

After making sure I was back to good metal I waited 'til daytime to mix the goo. I keep a couple of offcuts of graninte kithchen worktop in the workshop for such jobs..it's invaluable

url=https://servimg.com/view/16818459/65][/url]

I used a strip of zinc mesh (car body filler type) folded to the shape of the tank seam to bridge the gap and support the putty till curing started. The low temperatures weren't helping so I stuck the tank in this...

url=https://servimg.com/view/16818459/66][/url]

it's an old GEC clothes drier/airer with an elemant and racks in it, from the '60's it's bout the same vintage as myself but it works well and I came up with the idea of using it to bake the brake disc after painting the other day....

"We" got kicked out of the house when SWMBO got home, owing to the stink of petrol and epoxy but it had all gone off nicely by then .

So ready for priming (and baking) once she's gone to work tomorrow

To borrow from Land Rover's marketing spiel "One life, Live it!"

I would have to add "One life, live it = One wife Livid!!"

Thanks for all the tips and help guys..OH, Inge I checked the rubbers in the tank too, all in great condition thankfully.

One job I'd like to do while the tank is off is repair the Hazard warning switch. There are no wires at all on the rear of the switch neither can I see a plug without another half hanging around. Does anyone know where the switch wires route and what colours I should be looking for?

88KE

88KE wrote:

To borrow from Land Rover's marketing spiel "One life, Live it!"

I would have to add "One life, live it = One wife Livid!!"

88KE wrote:
Thanks for all the tips and help guys..OH, Inge I checked the rubbers in the tank too, all in great condition thankfully.

One job I'd like to do while the tank is off is repair the Hazard warning switch. There are no wires at all on the rear of the switch neither can I see a plug without another half hanging around. Does anyone know where the switch wires route and what colours I should be looking for?

Check at the bottom of this page: Electrical connectors

Nice job 88 now clean up and put away before she gets home

BIG D

The finished Repair....

url=https://servimg.com/view/16818459/74][/url]

While I had it off I decided to investigate the cap which was spinning under the key and needed some strange manoevering with the key to open. With the barrell out I could see that one of the two little nibs on the bottom of barrel was corroded away and the plastic holes which the nibs sit into were damaged, hence the spinning. Meanwhile I have removed the barell and relaced the cap and I am carrying a circlip pliers which works well to open it.

I have found a cap with no key for €10 in a local breakers yard and I hope I can use it to repair my own.

88KE