About the mysterious sockets/plugs.....if they are round and one black and one
white....they are for the factory alarm and extra euqipment.

It would have been a bit easier if one could see your pictures.

Look at the video in the bottom of this:
https://www.k100-forum.com/t998-posting-pictures-and-movies

Inge K. wrote:I live so close to the Swedish border that I have a dual language keyboard .

Never been to Friedrichstadt (even though I will have to at some stage for my family name being Friedrich), as a matter of fact, never managed to go further down in Østfold than Moss. Ever hanging around Norway my list always starts with Trondheim, simply love the place, followed closely by Lillehammer. Even my favourite singer is from there (Trondheim, that is).

Björn wrote: Never been to Friedrichstadt (even though I will have to at some stage for my family name being Friedrich),

That is a small town close to the coast in the very northern of Germany (been there) .

Björn wrote: as a matter of fact, never managed to go further down in Østfold than Moss.

Then you was very close to Fredrikstad......let me know next time, we could meet for a coffee or beer .

alibear57 wrote:
I discovered (when I ran out of petrol on the motorway last Friday evening) that the petrol warning light doesn't work,

Disconnect the tank connector at the rear end of the tank.
With ignition on, bridge the brown and the white wire in the connector at the
harness side.
If the warning lamp now functions, the problem is in the level sensor.
If not the problem is in the instrument or the instrument connector.
The problem could of course also be in the tank connector itself, check  :cyclops:

alibear57 wrote:
neither do the hazard warning lights, the switch on the dash does nothing

The connector for the switch you find under the tank front LHS, disconnect
it and with ignition on bridge the brown and yellow/violet in the connector at the harness side.
If the hazard now functions, the problem is the switch....which can be dismantled and cleaned....and of course also here check the connector itself.

Your bike is probably an Ex police so the black one on the tool tray is the abs computer and the silver box under the tray in it's own compartment is the ECU Engine Control Unit.
There should be 2 blue relays as per the drawing

We still don't know which model you have......Rick's drawing shows a early 4V.

If you got a 2V the smallest of the two blue relays would be where the fuel
pump relay is in the drawing.

I didn't notice it was Dave who started the thread way back when.
It's a good move to put the model in the signature line so it appears with each post without you doing it.

thank you Inge. You are right, even without seeing the mysteriously dissappearing pictures - they WERE there when I posted, someone from admin must have deemed them to be too large or something, I'll need to try and find out how to make them 800 x 800 on my iPad or else wait till I get in to work tomorrow so I can crop them in Photoshop.

The plugs are indeed round, one white and one black, so your explanation will be spot on. Still puzzled as to how the ABS and lots of other things are not working on the dashboard even when all the cables & plugs seem to be connected?

alibear57 wrote:the mysteriously dissappearing pictures - they WERE there when I posted, someone from admin must have
-
-
Still puzzled as to how xxxx lots of other things are not working on the dashboard even when all the cables & plugs seem to be connected?

Have you read all new posts since your last visit?

In post 52 it's a how to post pictures......to give your disappered ones another try.
In post 55, how to test your fuel level warning circuit and hazard switch circuit.

Hi guys, thanks for all your information and advice. I have to state here, that I'm a novice to both the bike in question AND this forum, so please be patient with me as I learn. I'm not sure about what you mean by model - I thought I was giving the model when I referred to it as a K100LT, I have hunted my registration document for anything which looks like 4V or 2V and I can't see anything like that, so I am in the dark with that one. Just looked through the manual and the only thing I can see about the engine is it's a longditudinal inline flat-four, four stroke with 2 overhead cams - don't know if that helps, sorry I feel such a twit for not knowing this.

I'm going to try both of your suggestions with the plug under the tank and also the hazard warning light switch, but I'll need to wait until I can get some time off in the daylight or wait until my friend helps me to build my new car (or in this case, motorbike) port in which I intend to install a light, so that I can see to do all these tests.

I'm also away now to view the video and see if I can find out how to post the pictures again.

VIN decoder

Try the above (just an example; there are others), as this will help in determining the engine type. Hang in there, we'll get it 'sorted' (as you types say) 

Here's another decoder

Inge K. wrote:
If you got a 2V the smallest of the two blue relays would be where the fuel pump relay is in the drawing.

Aha, so from your knowledgeable information, Rick & Inge, I must have a 2V since there's a small blue relay in the place where the fuel thingy is in the diagramme. 

With regards to the pictures, I actually did everything that was mentioned in the instructions - the pictures WERE showing when I did a preview and even after I uploaded the message, they were there, it was only when I checked back this morning, that I saw two little squares where the pictures had been.

Anyway, I also discovered that my hazard lights ARE working, the only quirky thing is, they can only be switched on when the ignition is on. I can then switch the ignition off and remove the key and they will still keep flashing until I depress the switch again. I suppose this could be a pretty good feature in case some passerby decided to tamper with the switches when bike was unattended, and left them running thus draining your battery. The only person who can switch them on would be the person with the key - as long as he knew that this was the case, since I've hunted the manual and it doesn't mention this.

Fuel light test yielded a negative result, so, if I got the right plug and connected the right wires together, it might be a dud bulb in the dash. Once I figure how to open this without taking the fairing off, I'll check the bulbs out.

A K100LT is a 2V (2 valves per cylinder) by definition. The RS is where the changes were made and it can be confusing.
My post with regards to fixing and diagnosing is still correct except that the drawing is for the 4V but it still has 2 blue relays.

All good info,

I put up a new forum this morning with regard to Chinese front disk rotors and posted some questions with regard to leaving off the ABS Rotor - given that there are no mounting holes for them on the new rotors.....

I sort of feel bad that I currently have all the ABS working and I'm thinking of murdering it so that my new front disc rotors will fit properly.......?????

K1100RS  1993

The ABS really is worth having

RicK G wrote:The ABS really is worth having

Thanks for advice - I received a message from another guy in AU that had some sharp things to say about some Chinese companies.....

I come from a back ground of trail bikes since 8 years old. ABS here in sunny dry Brisbane,,,,,,      Im going to use the Chinese rotors (without the ABS rotor) and see how we go.
Let you know.

P.S - These decisions are made given that I most probably will not get my money back on my brake rotors.......

Marky Boy OZ wrote: Im going to use the Chinese rotors (without the ABS rotor) and see how we go.

You would need two strips of black tape, to cover those annoying warning lamps.

Inge K. wrote:

Marky Boy OZ wrote: Im going to use the Chinese rotors (without the ABS rotor) and see how we go.

You would need two strips of black tape, to cover those annoying warning lamps.

I'm doing a LED update (Jcar = $AU3.50 each) on the speedo gear - maybe I will forget to put one bulb back in......

Marky Boy OZ wrote: - maybe I will forget to put one bulb back in......

Or two....

You could unplug the ABS computer and remove the 2 blue relays from the relay box.

Inge K. wrote:

Marky Boy OZ wrote: - maybe I will forget to put one bulb back in......

Or two....

Thanks Guys,

the "ABS" bulb and which other please?

or:-

Plan B - as suggested, removing the relays...... my K100RT (1989) would lock up the back wheel real easy - I would not mind to keep the ABS functional on the rear end if this is possible?

And If so - just take out the bulbs?

Your ABS would not function as long you missing the front toothed ring.

The other warning lamp is for the BMU unit (triangel symbol),
With Rick's solution you will keep the BMU function.

Inge K. wrote:Your ABS would not function as long you missing the front toothed ring.

Thanks,

Understood, can not have it all my way...

Maybe better to disconnect computer and the relays so that if I ever want to reinstate it power has not been running through those components.... would you agree?

Marky Boy OZ wrote: Maybe better to disconnect computer and the relays so that if I ever want to reinstate it power has not been running through those components.... would you agree?

.....protect the contacts from moisture and dirt.
Remove the ABS ECU and wrap the multiconnector in plastic foil.

Easy,

Thank you.

MT350Explorer wrote:Terrific, thank you Inge. I'll have to keep looking...
Best regards
Dave

Dave - are you still requiring the holder for an early ABS 1 Paralever K that Inge suggested?  I have one here bought for a K 75 conversion but abandoned due to realisation of final cost!!   
PM me if so and can have a chat about how it fits.

George

George, taken a while to reply but thanks I got one a while ago 😊 cheers Dave

<91 K100 RS arizona bike. ABS bringing it back to life. Reinstalling the mysterious blue relay in the relay box,stored in the little trunk. Learning how to reset the ABS system with the jumper wire. took it for a ride and the rear ABS works but not the front wheel which was bathed in fork and antisway bar silicone oil for eight? years of no cleaning.  Man some people took "minimal maintenance" 100%. Will clean well and troubleshoot the front sensor.  Man the Black Keys  Group are great and brings up a great mix of music on Pandora... dee dee dee  Trying Bud "Black Crown"  Allan

You may think the rear ABS is working only because it can be difficult to lock the rear wheel at any time but if the system has a fault condition no ABS function will work. You are on the right track and obviously learning a lot about it which I find is worth a lot in itself.
Keep at it the ABS is really worth having even if it only saves your bacon once it just may be the once that was really worth saving it.

Warning lights go out as they should after the little tests and taking off riding and when I try to lock up the rear brake the brake pulsates on off on off oh goodie.  I just started to ride this beast and I ain't got the werwoos to really lock up the front brake to give it a good test,

RicK G wrote:You could unplug the ABS computer and remove the 2 blue relays from the relay box.

Hey y'all!  Still some great riding weather here in the interior of BC, Canada - and with my 25 year old 1992 K100RS I can afford the insurance for the year (Collector's Plate) - sweet.  Shot of Okanagan Lake looking towards Kin Beach from up on the Commonage



I decided to start here, and mainly to let y'all know that Tosi Tabuki-san is still happening and wants your brains!  He's bored and lonely - send him your brains, please!

Seriously (or close enough) my K100RS was purchase without a working ABS system.  PO knew nothing(!).  I read a PLETHORA of threads and inputs about the potential reasons for failure, cleaned connections, ran the diagnostic (the dreaded #7).  Contact Tosi and he gave me a couple of tips for making sure my diagnostic checking was done correctly.  Diagnostic code double-checked, sent my brain to Japan (on the slow boat).

One thing I read in his warnings page on his site is that: very important to disconnect the brain from the system if the system isn't working correctly.  Certain 'aneurysms' can cause the brain to 'lock out' the braking system and suddenly, oops, better put your feet down hard!  I disconnected my brain as soon as I read this, and opened up the instrument cluster and removed the ABS bulb - done, no more flashing lights.  Didn't have to touch the relays on my model.

So my brain took a month to travel the distance from hyar to thar and Tosi had it fixed within 6 days of receiving it.  2 transistors were toast and he replaced a third for "maintenance".  ¥18,000 (about $210 CAD right now) was the cost which included return shipping.  I received it back yesterday and installed it - went for a blast and all good.  I'd already replaced the ABS light bulb in my instrument cluster (did the LED changeover when I received my Metric Speedo off fleaBay a week ago) - the lights flashed like downtown - and went out after rolling ahead barely 5'.  My driveway is sloped, tried locking up the rear wheel near the end of it (it was wet) - nope, no lock up!

Safety First.  So disconnect that brain if your ABS is not happening (whether by choice or by fault).  And Tosi, well he's just sitting there with soldering iron hot to trot

Ace