I'm new to this site but I have read about the battery drain and the fuse box. I followed the instructions and it seems that my #7 fuse is hot. I disconnected eveything like in the previous posts. But what I found out happening was when I put the red lead of my meter on the positive of the battery and the black lead to the #7 fuse, I get a reading of .05 and I noticed that my headlight came on. Can you help me?

Thanks

Duke

welcome duke ....

what instructions are you talking about ?

hmm now all things are to be concidered , depends on what range you have the multimeter on ....sounds like you have the range selection on amps ....not volts

ill explain

if you had the the range on volts i would expect the reading to be 11.5 to 12.0 volts ...with the ignition switch turned off ....but if you had the ignition switch turned on it might read .05 which could be the voltage drop between the battery and the power rail that that fuse supplies ....but i would expect that number to be higher than .05 any how ....

if it was on amps thats about the figure i would expect ,,,in as much as the load (current) to supply the flasher unit and maybe something else that has be added to your system (like relays for the headlights) perhaps ? ...especially as this fuse goes to the load shed relay as well .

did you have the headlights switch turned on at all ..and the ignition switch turned off ?

the fuse getting hot is hard to explain with only 0.05 amps measured ...with the ignition off ,,,,but if the ignition is turned on could be about right because there is some slight voltage drop on the way through the electrics to that point .....and a little current might still flow through the meter to supply stuff in addition to the normal supply route .

in any case if it is getting hot ....either the wrong size fuse has been installed ...or there is some load device connected ....do you have heated grips or something like an accessory added to the bike ?

all in all with the information supplied too hard to guess ....but some of the reasons might be from what i have suggested ....others may reply with different ideas also ,,,this is just what comes to mind straight away



so we need more information really

Thank you for your reply. I am terrible at electrical issues. So the amps v. volts could be very true. The 1991 K100rs does not have a headlight on and off switch. When you turn the key and press the starter button, the headlight goes out until the bike starts then comes back on. This was tested with the ignition switch turned off. I just went back and found the battery drain topic. It was from Simon dated April 11, 2011. But what has happened is my battery went dead at around 4yrs. old. Bought a new battery and is has drained twice. Probably takes a week or so. I do have after market heated grips connected. They are connected to the horn relay which as I was told should be off when the key is turned off. Otherwise nothing extra. My abs warning lights started blinking so I tried to reset them and they never reset. Duke

sorry dont have experience with the abs ...but belive that the abs draws some slight current durring "off mode " but it is only just normally a slight draw of current ...unlesss it has some additional issues

just a question ...do you do much riding? ....i ask this cause its quite common that batteries never seem to get a really good charge especially if only running for short trips .. an additional thought could be that the altenator is not putting enough charge in the battery . maybe it needs a little bit of work on the brushes (internal )

i would be interested to see what voltage is at the battery when the bike is at 2000 revs and after about 3 minutes of running above 2000 revs ...go for a ride around the block ..kinda thing



check that the earth connection ( mounted to the gearbox on the lefthand side ) for corrosion ..if this was faulty all sorts of issues might arise in both charging the battery and possibly the abs ?

Welcome Duke
I remember reading somewhere here that if you leave your key sitting in the ignition, even turned off, there will be a power drain. Take your key out when not in use.
RT

madisonmax1 wrote:My abs warning lights started blinking so I tried to reset them and they never reset.

If the ABS warning starts to flash immediately as you push the starter button, the reason is a to
weak battery.

If that isn`t the issue.......here is a thread with some info. about ABS I fault codes and resetting.

Inge K.

Welcome to the forum Duke

If you put an introduction post in the intro thread then out estemed admin guys will be able to let you have access to the downloads section which has some really good stuff to help us all.

A low battery will lead to the flashing ABS lights but is not by any means the only one. To test that go for a ride and at a normal cruising speed turn the ignition switch off but don't pull the clutch in then after 2 seconds turn it back on and if the lights stop flashing then the battery is the problem.

You are having problems resetting the ABS but try it several times maybe even 20 times as I have had it not reset after many attempts and finally do it.

Have a read of this website http://bmwk10075abs1fix.web.fc2.com/ there is a lot of helpful info.

Don't hold your breath for a quick fix as I have the same problem and have been chasing it on and off for years and now just leave the bike on a battery tender all the time.

Hi Duke, just to keep this on track, the problem stated is the battery goes flat. With the bike turned off as if you were parking it and leaving it for a long time (all lights, accessories etc. turned off) and a fully charged battery in place, take your meter set it to amps and then take off the negative from the battery and put your meter in series with the battery.

To do that clip the black or negative wire of the meter onto the earth wire which you just took off the battery and clip the red or positive wire of your meter to the battery terminal you just removed the earth wire from. You should only see a very small current flow caused by your clock and some of the electronics, you may need to select a lower current range on your meter 100 or 200 milliamps to be able to see any current flowing at all. That current you measure is the drain for your bike when it is standing it should not be a big number, do the measurement and then (this is why you need to clip the meter onto the battery and the earth wire) pull out the fuses one by one watching to see which fuse removal causes a drop in current flow. Continue pulling fuses until the drain is zero and report back how much the drain is and which fuse/s eliminated it. What you have done is to find out which circuit if any is draining the current.
Regards,
K-BIKE

For those with ABS problems send the ABS to Tosi who can be contacted on http://bmwk10075abs1fix.web.fc2.com/

Tosi is the best in the world at fixing K100/75 ABS faults. He is reasonably priced and guarantees his work.

I got him to fix mine when it failed and there is not a day that I ride the bike when I don't think of him and thank him for the safeguard of a fixed ABS.
Regards,
K-BIKE