Hello, I have a 1985 K100RT that until yesterday ran very well. Not being one to leave well enough alone, I decided to install a new battery to face the long cold winter ahead. Naturally,after this procedure, she refuses to operate. The starter motor will rotate the engine without internal combustion, and I have verified ignition spark and fuel delivery, but there is no voltage present at the fuel injectors. The wiring harness connection at the FI ECU appears clean and robust. The spark plugs show normal deposits and are totally dry. I have'nt the foggiest idea how to procede from here! Any help appreciated.

interesting problem pants ....have you checked that there is acually voltage getting to the injectors ...i believe they all work at the same time ...and the negative is the switched lead ...might be the f1 relay ...or the fuse that supplies it .

have a look at the portal page for the "efi trouble shooting thread " all sorts of information there ........thanks bert !

hope that helps some

As Charlie says the injectors are powered from the FI relay, an easy way to double check is at
terminal #9 at the ECU connector (same power source).
FI relay is unfused and triggered by the kill switch.

Inge K.

Check the spark at both #1&4 and #2&3 because the FI is trigered by one of the hall sensors (can't remember which) when it also triggers the spark and if you checked the other plug then you could be overlooking a hall sensor as the problem.

Just check the connection at the FI computer again.
This is a common problem
Unplug the computer then plug it again and be sure that it set correctly.
Then move the harness. You may have a broken wire at the area where it touches the bike frame. There is a sharp bend in the harness, and it could be the area to pay a close attention.
You may have a second ground coming from the battery and when replacing it, you may have forgotten to plug it again.

CF

deoxit ....is your friend !!!!

I'm for CF's suggestion. All you did was disturb the computer when replacing the battery, so the solution lies there. Bet it's that cable.

Thanks for the suggestions. I will try them and report back.

Also there are usually a couple of connections at the battery, check you did not leave one of them off when you bolted up the other ones.
Regards,
K-BIKE

Thanks to all for the helpful suggestions. I removed the fuel tank and cleaned and applied dielectric grease to all of the electrical connections residing beneath. Replaced fuel tank, reconnected battery, and EUREKA! the bike started immediately. Once again, thanks to all the helpful folks on the forum.

OMG I'm hiding , can see it coming " dielectric grease " quick hide the kids

GGGRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrr!!!!!

Who mentioned dielectric grease on this Forum?

Next time, use the "other" stuff...the stuff whose name shall not be mentioned.

Hang on...if it's not mentioned, how will he know what we're not talking about?

DeoxIT. There, I said it. Release the kids, it's safe to come out and play again.

Blakey, you haven't been spraying and inhaling the fumes again ?

Keep doing that and Santa won't visit you.

well said blakey....well kinda blunt, but we get you .

pants ...just by way of explanation..... the exact thing that you are trying to solve ...you are reinforcing ....the electrical connections are already suffering from a form of "dielectric" corrosion ....what our esteeme friends are trying to suggest is that you need exactly the reverse therapy ...our poor old darlings need to get a good contact between the connections that suffer from a number of things ...electrolysis ...contamination ....and all the rest of age related illnesses on motor bikes.....

the deoxit that they speak of ...promotes a cleaning action chemically and a good bond between the physical and electrical bearing connections of the bullit type connectors in those multi pin terminals under the tank ....

i would be offering the suggestion that the simple fact that you have disconnected and reconnected the terminals ....and lubricating them to some degree as part of your "solve "

past experience by me has experimented with phosphoric acid ,,,and it does a remarkable job at cleaning off corrosion for copper bits ....making them unworkable to solderable within minutes ...

im just suggesting that you give the deoxit a go ...as i have also done a clean up on some connectors, to find just a few months later old issues reapear requiring another delve into the underside of the k tank .

hope this help some .....cheers

OK, But where do I obtain deoxit? How do I remove this grease? Can this wait until spring? I hope I have'nt ruined anything.

Have a look here for info on DeoxIT. Go to the home page and no doubt you'll find stockists where ever you live.

The reason we go on about DeoxIT so much is that it works. It enhances conductivity. Use the D-Series stuff to clean and rejuvinate the connection and the Sheild stuff for greater protection from the elements.

No harm done, wait until spring.

Yes, you will be fine for now. I also used to think that I was helping by adding dielectric grease. I wonder what it's really for??

DeoxIT can be found at any decent music store that sells electronics (guitars, soundboards, etc)

Do they play anything other than banjos is Kentucky?

dielectric grease would certainly be the go ...after processing all the connectors and once sure they are reliable....the dielectric grease in fact would keep most of the nasty corrosion gremlins out of appropriate areas ....but the use would have to be whilst they are in a good state ...not after they have started failing . i would imagine in cold areas where salt is used for road ...um processing, durring icy weather the dielectric grease would be a god send for keeping all that spray out of undertank connectors ...or marine type enviroments. yes ?

I will check out this DeOxit product and repeat the procedure, but probably not until spring (have to ride, after all). Thanks for all the useful input, and yes, there exists a great diversity of musical types played and listened to in Ky! Thanks again.

I am sorry to disagree with charlie99 but dielectric grease is definitely not the thing to use anywhere on motorcycle electrical connectors except the rubber boots on spark plug caps to stop them bonding with the porcelain of new spark plugs.

After cleaning connectors contaminated with dielectric grease with strong solvent to dissolve the silicone grease away treat the connections with DeoxIT D5 to clean the metal and then after thorough treatment with that use DeoxIT S5 which is the treatment to compliment the clean-up and prevent attack with environmental contamination.

If you want to trace a stockist in the USA go to http://www.caig.com/

Below are endorsements from some significant companies
Regards,
K-BIKE
Boeing Company


We have been using CAIG
products on switches, contacts and edge connectors and they are
considered “Preferred Products” at Boeing.

Bose Corporation


DeoxIT® D-Series is an
excellent product for removing oxidation and contamination from dirty
switches & controls and reducing intermittent contact problems. We
have been using CAIG products with great success for over 35 years.

General Electric


We were having trouble with edge connectors in our
manufacturing environment until we tried DeoxIT® Gold Wipes . . . . . .
great product.

Hewlett Packard


Consistent intermittent connection failures on PC
board edge connectors for our micro automation equipment have been
eliminated by using CAIG’s DeoxIT® Gold Wipes. It has been indispensable
in reducing down-time on our equipment.