The Haynes manual I have says nothing about the handlebar switches to speak of. From internet searches, it looks like the cable connects to the wiring harness up under the tank somewhere. Is this correct? If so, do I need to fully remove the tank to get at the connection - I've heard that you can remove the fasteners and lift the tank in place quite a bit? If I do need to remove it, do I need to worry about gas going everywhere when I disconnect the gas line? Any other advice or suggestions on replacing the switch would be appreciated.

Way easier to remove the tank. You may be able to fish the wires out if you could lift it far enough but that prob wont work. When you disconnect the fuel lines at the tank you will get a bit of drainage from the lines but nothing more. The tank shouldn't drain out if the check valve is in place (likely). Watch for the overflow lines under the tank when removing, just pull them off. And of course make sure you disconnect the fuel pump plug.

While you are under the tank you will see all the electrical connections there. There are quite a few. We recommend cleaning all the connections with DeoXit to improve reliability.

Hey and welcome Claude. I had to replace my right hand swithes the day I got the bike (got it with second hand switch supplied). After many removals of the fuel tank (and you will need to remove it to get at the plug for the handlebar switch) I found it much easier to remove the glove boxes and make sure you cover the metal frame so you don't scratch the tank on it. I also found I had to remove the left hand lower fairing to get at the fuel line and return and the electrical plug.
My two cent's worth. Once you have done it a few times, it's easy and doesn't take nearly as long as reading about it.

ask any k owner ....the tank is no biggie we are all practiced at it in some way .....

It is an easy job, even easier if you have a naked K100 like me. Be careful taking the side covers off as the lugs can be damaged. As you take bits and pieces off put them some distance away from the bike. It is too easy to step back from the bike and on to that valuable piece of plastic. Good luck.

I'm getting confused. Can one of you guys just list the pieces in sequenced order, that I have to remove? I got my new (used) switch in today, so I'm ready to go.

What, for example, are you referring to as side covers - you mean the two triangular pieces of plastic body work that fit on either side just under the seat?

Also, do I have to remove fairing pieces?

It is easier if you remove your glove boxes first, then the two triangular side covers( gently pull where the lugs are, and put some vaseline on them b4 you put them back).
Then remove the lower parts of the fairing ( the ones attached at the front to the radiator grill). This will allow access to your fuel lines. Read the manual about depressurising the system b4 you touch the fuel lines if you don't want to have a bath. Make sure engine is cold as well. After you take the tank off, the wiring for LH switchgear is joined to the loom in an opaque covered connector (there are two side by side for each switch gear) just pull the plug out then gently feed the wires back out from cable ties etc.Make note where it runs so you can relocate your new wires. THEN use the DeoxIt on every thing you can see. It pays to undo every little connector under the tank and squirt it whilst you have access.
I was able to do this and I am a renown luddite. RT

Thank you - that's real helpful. I may tackle this tonight.

A Luddite ?



Luddite [ˈlʌdaɪt]
n English history 1. (Historical Terms) any of the textile workers opposed to mechanization who rioted and organized machine-breaking between 1811 and 1816
2. any opponent of industrial change or innovation

Oh one of those.

Bushy

bushyintas wrote:A Luddite ?



Luddite [ˈlʌdaɪt]
n English history 1. (Historical Terms) any of the textile workers opposed to mechanization who rioted and organized machine-breaking between 1811 and 1816
2. any opponent of industrial change or innovation

Oh one of those.

Bushy

Named for their leader Ned Ludd

Tie a string to the end of the wire you unplug, and then pull it out through the maze of cable ties etc. Once out re-tie the string to the end of the new cable and pull it back through to its resting place.

Yes, I was refering to the triangular bits. I have no fairing to worry about.

club_c wrote:Tie a string to the end of the wire you unplug, and then pull it out through the maze of cable ties etc. Once out re-tie the string to the end of the new cable and pull it back through to its resting place.

I am perplexed clubie I tie a string to mine at all times but still can't get it to come out most times

I'm talkin' about tying a string to the switch cable...

K Freak wrote:

I am perplexed clubie I tie a string to mine at all times but still can't get it to come out most times

Maybe your not pulling hard enough K, or maybe you could try some Lanotec.

It was unseasonably warm this evening when I got home, so I did the deed. I had a little trouble figuring out the body parts, and probably removed more than necessary. I couldn't figure out what was holding the tank in the rear because the manual was telling me to remove clips that weren't there. Figured out that the last guy in there just left the clips off so after a good yank, the tank came off. Thanks for all the suggestions. Now I have a broken switch to take apart and try to get going again for a spare. The replacement switch off eBay works perfectly.

The big question will be, how many parts will you have left over when you put it back together ?

you will end up dropping 1 part on the floor and find3 whilst retrieving said part then after misplacing the switch block will find the threads change whilst re assembling

omg .....you guys are a hard case ... giggles ....talk about murphy



good work claude ...happy riding mate !!!!

claudejones wrote:Now I have a broken switch to take apart and try to get going again for a spare.

Then these two links from this forum could become useful.

http://hrsbstaff.ednet.ns.ca/bvogel/hi-low_beam_switch/index.html
https://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y156/the_mule/Bike%20mods/?start=20#!cpZZ2QQtppZZ16

Inge K.

i think i read somewhere to pull switch apart inside plastic bag that way when all the little thingymebobs fly everywhere they stay in the plastic bag and you only have to workout how to put together

There's a good guide in the "How to section"as well, with pictures and everything. I also do not have any clips on my tank, hope I never fall over.
Shouldn't have said that I guess.
RT

Col, you are a spoilt sport. Half the fun of doing a job is to work out where all the parts have gone to! At the present time we have plenty of snakes about...makes it interesting looking for that last bit on the floor in the shed.

RT wrote:There's a good guide in the "How to section"as well, with pictures and everything. I also do not have any clips on my tank, hope I never fall over.
Shouldn't have said that I guess.
RT

RT I don't think anybody has clips on their tank. I have worked on quite a few Ks and not once have I had to remove clips to get the tank off.

K Freak, I have a single bolt holding my tank on at thr back. Where do the clips go?

ainsjac wrote:K Freak, I have a single bolt holding my tank on at thr back. Where do the clips go?

The later models had two posts that went through rubbers and had Eclips holding them down and were to say the least difficult to remove.
The setup you have is far better but probably cost 2 cents more to make.

K Freak, is the frame different between early and late K100s? I know that the tank, side panels, seat, tail section are all different, along with instruments (low fuel) etc. Do they all hang on a slighty different frame?

What is interchangable ?

Yeah the only real difference is the rear tank mount. I am not sure but I think the real early ones didn't have the rubber mounts on the front engine mounts but if I'm wrong someone will come along and correct me.

many thanks

K Freak wrote:Yeah the only real difference is the rear tank mount. I am not sure but I think the real early ones didn't have the rubber mounts on the front engine mounts but if I'm wrong someone will come along and correct me.

Up to somewhere in first half of -84, the naked versions only came without a front engine rubber mount.
And therefore fitting a RT/RS fairing to a early naked was not approved by the factory, due to the
posibillity of vibration damage.

Inge K.