Insufficient ground connection for the load shedding relay,
change the starter brushes and/or clean the starter commutator.
Rather common problem, search the net for load shedding relay or LSR.

Inge K. wrote:Insufficient ground connection for the load shedding relay,
change the starter brushes and/or clean the starter commutator.
Rather common problem, search the net for load shedding relay or LSR.

thanks Inge..Ill do that

Inge K. wrote:Insufficient ground connection for the load shedding relay,
change the starter brushes and/or clean the starter commutator.
Rather common problem, search the net for load shedding relay or LSR.

I will talk to the mech early in the morning, I need to know whether It is posible to take the the starter out ,for cleaning, without removing the fairing from the LT
they spent much time taking the fairing off
Do you know?

jordicasas wrote:I need to know whether It is posible to take the the starter out ,for cleaning, without removing the fairing from the LT

It's possible. Did you ask them why they removed it?

Starter is very easy to remove on the K100LT, whether it has ABS or not. Did it a few times on my K100LT and it came off in 10 minutes.

Remove the tray under the seat, you also have to unplug and take out the Fuel Injection Control Unit which is in a slot in it, take out the battery, take off the plastic cover over the coils. I can't remember if I had to take the coils out but I took them out anyway to clean the connections while I was at it. They come out easily. You will see a 10mm nut on top of the starter, that's the electrical connection, you will see 2 6mm[?] Allen bolts towards the back where it's bolted down on to the gear box. It should then lift very slightly and come out backwards towards the rear wheel. Only 2 long screws hold it together too. That's as much as you need to do IF it's the starter motor only and you are cleaning it, replacing brushes or whatever.

All of the relays including the starter relay and the load shed relay [LST] are in the electrical box under the petrol tank so to get at those a dealer will have to take the tank off. But that only means taking off the black leg panels and both left and right hand storage boxes and probably the left lower panel and the two baffles in there so they can access the fuel lines at the left front of the tank to disconnect them. You can modify your K by putting longer fuel lines in so you can access this electrical box without removing the tank BUT the storage boxes/leg panels will still need to come out to allow you to life the rear for access to it.

The thing about taking K to a dealer is they don't have people who know them. To some they look complicated and a sea of plastic that must be removed to do any simple task. Nothing could be further from the truth. Try changing spark plugs on a Japanese four, my son's bike takes over an hour, on a K its a 10 minute job. You have to take out the camshafts just to check the valve clearances, on the K you check in situ on the 4 valve and only take them out to adjust them. For many of the maintenance items on the K only the 2 lower panels and the boxes/leg panels and baffles come out and with a bit of practice those are very fast operations. These are also designed to come off like this, without needing to take off the rest of the fairing. For a service, if you have lengthened the fuel lines, you can access the radiator cap without removing the tank to refill the cooling system. I have only once taken off the panel around the radiator and all the small bits there and that was for a head bearing job that was a bit pear shaped. The main part of the fairing doesn't need to come off at all.

Do you have a Clymer or Haynes manual? I have the Clymer and its very useful for understanding how these things are done even if you don't actually do them yourself. But the best place for anything is the forum!! Even if no one is near you or its a difficult task someone will give you good pointers.

Laitch wrote:

jordicasas wrote:I need to know whether It is posible to take the the starter out ,for cleaning, without removing the fairing from the LT

It's possible. Did you ask them why they removed it?

They "needed" to remove the lower fairing to check the inner wiring and they told me they found a damaged relay..Ill ask later which one. That work took 2h1/2

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:Starter is very easy to remove on the K100LT, whether it has ABS or not. Did it a few times on my K100LT and it came off in 10 minutes.

Remove the tray under the seat, you also have to unplug and take out the Fuel Injection Control Unit which is in a slot in it, take out the battery, take off the plastic cover over the coils. I can't remember if I had to take the coils out but I took them out anyway to clean the connections while I was at it. They come out easily. You will see a 10mm nut on top of the starter, that's the electrical connection, you will see 2 6mm[?] Allen bolts towards the back where it's bolted down on to the gear box. It should then lift very slightly and come out backwards towards the rear wheel. Only 2 long screws hold it together too. That's as much as you need to do IF it's the starter motor only and you are cleaning it, replacing brushes or whatever.

All of the relays including the starter relay and the load shed relay [LST] are in the electrical box under the petrol tank so to get at those a dealer will have to take the tank off. But that only means taking off the black leg panels and both left and right hand storage boxes and probably the left lower panel and the two baffles in there so they can access the fuel lines at the left front of the tank to disconnect them. You can modify your K by putting longer fuel lines in so you can access this electrical box without removing the tank BUT the storage boxes/leg panels will still need to come out to allow you to life the rear for access to it.

The thing about taking K to a dealer is they don't have people who know them. To some they look complicated and a sea of plastic that must be removed to do any simple task. Nothing could be further from the truth. Try changing spark plugs on a Japanese four, my son's bike takes over an hour, on a K its a 10 minute job. You have to take out the camshafts just to check the valve clearances, on the K you check in situ on the 4 valve and only take them out to adjust them. For many of the maintenance items on the K only the 2 lower panels and the boxes/leg panels and baffles come out and with a bit of practice those are very fast operations. These are also designed to come off like this, without needing to take off the rest of the fairing. For a service, if you have lengthened the fuel lines, you can access the radiator cap without removing the tank to refill the cooling system. I have only once taken off the panel around the radiator and all the small bits there and that was for a head bearing job that was a bit pear shaped. The main part of the fairing doesn't need to come off at all.

Do you have a Clymer or Haynes manual? I have the Clymer and its very useful for understanding how these things are done even if you don't actually do them yourself. But the best place for anything is the forum!! Even if no one is near you or its a difficult task someone will give you good pointers.

I have the haynes one, I have not much electrical knowledge but after this experience Ill manage these problems differently.
I appreciate much your help
Thanks

jordicasas wrote:

Laitch wrote:

jordicasas wrote:I need to know whether It is posible to take the the starter out ,for cleaning, without removing the fairing from the LT

It's possible. Did you ask them why they removed it?

They "needed" to remove the lower fairing to check the inner wiring and they told me they found a damaged relay..Ill ask later which one. That work took 2h1/2

The relays are all in the relay box just under the rear of the tank, you can see it with the seat open. Never seen any relay behind the lower fairing!

jordicasas wrote:They "needed" to remove the lower fairing to check the inner wiring and they told me they found a damaged relay... That work took 2h1/2

I'm wondering how long it takes an experienced owner of a faired bike—without distraction by children, dogs, and vermin—to remove and replace the lowers. My bike is naked so I don't know.

BobT wrote:

jordicasas wrote:

Laitch wrote:
It's possible. Did you ask them why they removed it?

They "needed" to remove the lower fairing to check the inner wiring and they told me they found a damaged relay..Ill ask later which one. That work took 2h1/2

The relays are all in the relay box just under the rear of the tank, you can see it with the seat open. Never seen any relay behind the lower fairing!

You're right there BobT, but unless you have modified the fuel hoses to be able to manoeuvre the fuel tank, to actually get into the relay box, and do anything other than giving it a good torching, the tank has to come off. To get the tank off, as Olaf says, both storage boxes and the left lower fairing has to come off. I think what Jordicasas/his mechanic is eluding to is the fact the the lower fairing(s) need to come off to get the tank off, to get access to the relay box rather than the relay being behind the fairing.

I have found, by trial and error (the error being removing all lower fairings and the hassle of getting the radiator cover lined up again) that removal of both storage boxes and the left lower fairing is sufficient to access the fuel hose jubilee clips and to be able to lift the tank off. When it comes to rebuilding, with the radiator cover still nicely aligned by the right hand lower fairing, it is an easy job to re-affix the left lower fairing. 

Laitch - I reckon 20 -30 minutes is ample to whip off the lower fairing and tank...and about the same to replace it. If you remove both left and right lower fairings, then probably 30-40 minutes to remove and about an hour (with some cussing and cursing) to rebuild it. Practice does make perfect!