Evening all, yet another question from me...



What are the possible causes of missing a gear when changing up, and for it to appear to go into a neutral gear? Is it potentially an operator error or could a worn clutch cable be responsible?

I am going to be replacing the original clutch cable as it has seen better days and has worn through the plastic sheathing... I also need to replace the Rubber seal (one the gear lever connects to on the transmission) as it has a tear in it and was causing a leak of oil, incedentially the oil was very thick when i drained it out is this normal?

twincarb...i used to have the same issue , till i started making a more positive gear change . but a binding clutch actuator /tight cable might also contribute to this i guess . there is a corect measurement and adjustment proceedure in the forum here , but some have found the pivot lever to be ceased or "tight" , i have seen grease nipple mods to the pivot bearing from some members also.

Thanks Charlie, i was riding to work this evening and thinking about it, because i know i can do clutchless gear changes on my Yamaha but know not to do them on the K.

Which made me wonder about it being operator error.... the pivot lever is nice and loose and moves freely, when I put on the new cable and boot on will monitor it...

oops hang on twincarb ....the lever i was talking about is the clutch actuator lever at the back of the gearbox (connects the clutch cable to the push rod ), it cantilevers on a small bearing and spigot .



some have found that it binds up with age and because of where it is ,,,,some have even gone so far as to add a piece of plastic, whatever to protect it from road grime as there is a gap between where the guard ends and the swingarm so as to keep dirt and stuff off that area

You don't want to be halfhearted with gear changes. Give it a good solid boot. Also you may need to adjust the gear lever so that you don't need to lift your foot from the footrest to operate it. The gear lever on mine was slightly bent inwards towards the gearbox and when I tried to move it down a spline to suit my foot position it would hit the exhaust when changing down. Being aluminium, and not having a spare, I was reluctant to try bending it back out in case I broke it. I would occasionally get false neutrals if I was not concentrating on what I was doing. Last week I bought another bike, an 87 K100LT with a dodgy engine. It had a gear lever from a K1100 on it which has a large outward bend in it, so it is well clear of the exhaust pipes. I fitted this on the splines at the angle which suited me, and I now find it much easier to change gear without hitting false neutrals.

[quote="twincarb"]Thanks Charlie, i was riding to work this evening and thinking about it, because i know i can do clutchless gear changes on my Yamaha but know not to do them on the K.
quote]



I busted a clutch cable on the RS a couple of months back while riding in town. Was fortunate I did not have to stop at an intersection and was able to ride the 10 kms home. I can confirm you can shift gears up and down without activating the clutch. Not pretty, but do-able.



Try slightly preloading your shift lever prior to shifting. It gives a faster, more positive shift. A halfhearted shifting effort will reward you with a 'fail' (false neutral).

Thanks club c, It is of course getting used to different gearbox's at the end of the day... no different to swapping cars etc...



Fingers crossed i should have the bike back together again in a couple of weeks once the clean and painting is all complete.



I dont think the bike had a proper clean over the last 10 years the amount of ingrained dirt grease and oil thats in evidence, am glad to be turning a rat back into a bike to be proud of, mind you I wouldnt want to park up next to Oldgoat he will put it to shame lol

HI , I have had good luck using a method of shifting that I found on the moa forum, pull up slightly to "pre-load" the shifter, and as you pull in the clutch keep going into gear , works great up shifting , not so good going down , but thats less of a problem anyway,let us know how it goes for you.

Brian

Make sure you go over EVERY electrical connection with DeoxIt while it's apart. #1 cause of electrical issues is corroded/dirty contacts. There's never time to do it right, but there's always time to do it over...

I am going to bring the whole loom into work next week as there are a couple of wires that i had made a temporary repair on, and prob going to replace them properly.



just ordering some deoxit now.... I love it when work is quiet hehe

You may regret pulling the loom completely out, it's like a map, you can never fold it the same way again. You may have difficulty re assembling it the same/correct way (ask me how I know...)

Dust off your digital camera.

Inge K.

looms can be a pain to work on, I have got a board here in work which i will pin the loom to and then start the disection on, the idea being that the shape of the loom isnt changed which is the problem when doing it loose.



Damn company internet... the cheapest place to order online... and the coding won't run! hmmmm have to wait till the morning to order Deoxit at home...



I have got lots of shots at the moment of the strip down.... I am hopefully going to get a bit of time to sort the photo's out and get my restoration thread to the point where i am.... So should be able to show off the new paint job before the bits go on the bike....

twincarb wrote:I have got lots of shots at the moment of the strip down....

So did I... Trouble is some of the multiplugs look the same and you need to carefully note the wire colors. If you're careful and thorough you may reduce the pain somewhat... but I bet you will be wondering about a few of those connections before you're done...

I have a sneaking suspission that you maybe right.... and that I should have used tape to label the connectors with where they are going!....



I have got a large chunk of leave in september so am aiming to get the bike back on the road by then.... hope I dont get in trouble for not doing work on the house instead hehe!

lol the house will still be there in 40 years twincarb ....but your legs may be a bit... um ...over riding the bike by then ,.....i say ..go ride and play with the bike mate ,,,,cheers

maybe try a gearbox flush - either use a synthetic gearbox oil (like Nulon 75-85 ??) and change a few times or a gearbox flushing agent (I think Mainlube do one) and then replace with normal oil with your weapon of choice. My '86 K100RS has responded well - just changed the oil with BM220 and shifting well. Not saying it is your fix but might save a lot of effort and expensive - maybe. Mark

The gearbox is on the bench at the moment, waiting for me to put it back on the bike, everything looked good inside when i had it open going to be putting standard BMW oil into it and see how it all responds, bike is going to be off the road for a couple more weeks while i get the bits blasted and powdercoated, hoping to get the bike on the road b4 i get sent to the falklands for 4 months!

ouch ...!!! the falklands ?....lucky its kinda heading towards summer down this side of the equator



good luck twincarb

yeah, be down for the summer period, shame i wont have a bike out there at all!



Will find out in 10 days for sure if i am going..,.

you could rather use a 75/149 Synthetic Gear oil, I have used this oil in my box for the past 2 years, gear box has been smooth as silk since.
BMW don't make any oils(not to my knowledge), it is one of their chosen oil suppliers products.

correction it should read 75/140 Synthetic Gear Oil, easily found on flea bay