Last week end, I brought the rig into my basement for a checkup.

The bike runs well and seems to be mechanically in good shape at the exception of an oil leak in the gear box. Well see what kind of surprise I will discover.
The cosmetic aspect shows its age and requires a lot of attention.
As I will be working on it this winter and I may as well start a new thread.

Everything started in the driveway.
Removing the chair from the bike was not an easy task as the bike is not anymore fit to be ridden solo. All the electrical connections are solid with no plugs. (I will fix that). The second problem was the sidecar brake is using a split in the line of the motorcycle rear brake. Removing the line from the sidecar let air entering the master cylinder and I lost the use of the bike's brake.
After disconnecting the electrical and hydraulic, I rolled my dolly under the chair. (This dolly was made from a cheap mechanic's creeper.)
A lot of brute force was required to separate bike and chair. After-all, they were siblings for over 20 years.
Then came the time to roll the bike down the shop and carry the chair. The chair weight around 300lbs and due to its size, the house's back door had to be removed.
Here is some pictures of the operation and the winter quarter for the bike.







The bike had to go there


We use my 14ft ramp (against the wall on this picture) to roll the bike down


Now the bike rest happily in a warm environment for the whole winter.



I adopted RobMack idea to build a support with 2" angle iron. Now the bike sits straight on the lift


I was not planning to start dismantling before the end of the month, but.... I started to remove the faiirng. I was curious to find how the upper part of the subframe is attach to the motorcycle frame.

The bike is stripped of the tupperware



Here is where I store all the plastic parts. My wife finds it very attractive.



Here is the upper attachment. (More pictures to come)


Next curiosity was: How to remove the back wheel with the double swing arm.
I was puzzled and started to remove every screws. At the end I found that the caliper didn't have to be removed from the plate. I put everything back together and started again.
Step1: remove the shock lower screw.
Step2: remove the screw holding the caliper plate.
Step 3: remove the 4 screws holding the disk brake to the wheel and pull the assembly.









Now the disk brake is out and you have access to the 4 recessed screws holding the rim.


Tomorrow will be another day.

CF

WHAT a battle... EML sidecars are unique, with unique chassis. It's hard to find information about them. Looking at your pictures, I'm amazed at the engineering EML did for the K100 chassis. Very interesting stuff, thanks for the pics!

Looking good there CF, I would have taken to that doorway with a chainsaw by now to make it wide enough to fit the bike in easier. You have far more patience than I do.

Would like to get some more details on the leading link forks, I reckon with the right details I could make a set of those. What brand are they. I know there are a few companies here that make them, but I think they are pretty pricey. I can get hold of the chrome moly tube no worries but need some dimensions and specs on the shocks.

As time permits, over the next few weeks, I will dismantle the bike then inspect all parts and clean them. I will then be able to give as much information as possible.
Just be patient.
I just made the resolution that the renovation of the hack won't interfere with my social life. I decided to take it easy. (Yes sometimes I lie to myself but it makes me feel good)

CF

I'm as sharp as a bowling ball sometimes.....only just noticed you have a twin shock swing arm setup.

Bert 2.0, build me a leading link,
Bert 2.0 build me a leading link...build me a leading link...

:pirat: :pirat:

SaKson7-lunchboKsrider wrote:I'm as sharp as a bowling ball sometimes.....only just noticed you have a twin shock swing arm setup.

Bert 2.0, build me a leading link,
Bert 2.0 build me a leading link...build me a leading link...

:pirat: :pirat:

I believe that the reason for the twin shocks setup is to be approved in Germany. TÜV will not approve a sidecar with a single swing arm.

For the leading forks, check the one for sale in AU. It seems to b e simple to built.
Over the winter I will take detailed pictures and dimensions and post them.

I was talking to a bloke here once who used to race K100 outfits. He maintained that to use one without a twin shock and swinging arm set up was suicide.
By the time I got mine on the road without one I fully expected it to all fall apart within days.

We all know it took months instead....

My thoughts on it would be to fabricate a swing arm completely, make it a bit longer to take the 2 piece shaft from a paralever and have the single shock in front of the wheel in centre.

SaKson7-lunchboKsrider wrote:I'm as sharp as a bowling ball sometimes.....only just noticed you have a twin shock swing arm setup.

Bert 2.0, build me a leading link,
Bert 2.0 build me a leading link...build me a leading link...

:pirat: :pirat:

Cant see it would be that difficult ifn i had some specs to work from. Have built more complex things than that. Sorry not bragging just been lucky in my work to have had great opportunities and good teachers.
Thanks CF that would be great. Bet you dont take that long to start fiddlin with the bike though.
I like your thinking Rick, go big monoshock that wouldn't be to bad an idea. The way our swingarm mounts makes it pretty easy and the rear frame is built strong too.
I would like to build a sidecar the shape of Wallaces cos my dog harry sort of looks like grommet.

Fantastic stuff CF the fabrication of the parts for the side car mod is first class no wonder you jump on this purchase.
See why you will need to create two entities as after assembly you will have to pull apart again to get through the doorway.
Cant wait to see what the condition of the splines is like ? Any leaks from the oil water pump ?
Halo

Yes..Thanks Crazy for sharing and the sharing to come. Bert 2.0 I will put up the materials and tucker if this 3Legs character gets back to me with some info about his leading links.

I too promised myself no MORE!!!! But somehow one more K is on its way!!1 Need a tug for my Hack

The main dimension you need for links on a K is to move the front wheel spindle between 50 and 70mm forward.

My Wasp forks have the front wheel 75mm forward and Hedinghams are 50mm.

As for spring units, my fronts are rated at 26Kg/cm, which is quite soft (but that's how I like it) so anywhere between 26 and 35 should be OK.

So, Alby and caferacer, can we have some pics of your links by next week please.

Paul.

SaKson7-lunchboKsrider wrote:I was talking to a bloke here once who used to race K100 outfits. He maintained that to use one without a twin shock and swinging arm set up was suicide.
By the time I got mine on the road without one I fully expected it to all fall apart within days.

We all know it took months instead....

I don't know anyone who's actually broken a standard swing arm on an outfit.........yes, there's extra load on the bevel box bearing but they're easy enough to fix, aren't they?..............Well we get enough practice.

Paul.

SP, I don't know anyone who has broken one either.

Today I was ready to remove the swing arm, but I have first to remove the fork then the sub frame. I started to look at the electrical modifications made for the sidecar and it's a real mess. I cut all the wires and start from scratch.
The previous owner had installed extra fuses, and I am glad. lots of wires are bear and it wouldn't take a lot to get a good spark and put the bike on fire.

Here is what I removed from the bike:



And here is the type of professional connections...

CF, if all those wires were going to the chair, what were they doing?

SaKson7-lunchboKsrider wrote:CF, if all those wires were going to the chair, what were they doing?

Not all of them were going to the sidecar, but:
The sidecar has an auxiliary fuel tank with a pump and a gauge. This is 4 wires.
Then you have the front parking light, tail light and stop light. this is another 4 wires.
Each front and back parking lights had their own feed from the bike (?).
It was a dedicated ground for the chair's gas cap
The chair has 2 speakers: another 4 wires
Don't forget the 2 big wires for the battery.

On the bike, it was a radio, a GPS and a CB + the speakers.
There was the mess under the fairing.
Oh, I also found an old radar detector. (+ 3 wires).
On the dash, I have 4 switches. 1 to turn the head light off (not really legal)+ 1 to turn the speakers on/off in the sidecar + 2 that I have not found why they are there for.

The ignition key wires had been split and the accessory connector had been used too.
Add to that another box with 2 relays and 4 fuses and you will understand the confusion.

When I will sort all the connections, I will simply use the feed from the load shed relay to the powe rthe positive (+) in the sidecar.

None of these wires were factory installed.
When finished, I will have a main ground, 1 wire for the tail and front marker, 1 for the stop light, 1 for the fuel pump and one for the fuel gauge. All accessories mounted in the chair will work off the tail light circuit. I may even install a radio in the chair.
I am planning to use a water proof trailer plug to connect the sidecar.

CF.

I have enough trouble with electrickery at the best of times!

SaKson7-lunchboKsrider wrote:I have enough trouble with electrickery at the best of times!

My best way to help people with electricity is to ask them to compare electrical power to water flow.
You have your tap(+) and a drain(-). If the drain is plug you have problems. and... your battery is the water tank

You can see water flowing, but it's hard to picture electrons flowing.

yep agree there bert ...a trailer plug sounds just the thing for the job

the trailer type wiring (double insulated ) is a good suggestion also

caferacer62 wrote:Looking good there CF, I would have taken to that doorway with a chainsaw by now to make it wide enough to fit the bike in easier. You have far more patience than I do.

Would like to get some more details on the leading link forks, I reckon with the right details I could make a set of those. What brand are they. I know there are a few companies here that make them, but I think they are pretty pricey. I can get hold of the chrome moly tube no worries but need some dimensions and specs on the shocks.

Here is a basic on leading link. Earls fork type

Might help with a starter

[/quote]
Sorry not bragging just been lucky in my work to have had great opportunities and good teachers.
[/quote]

You don't strike me as the kind of bloke who would brag, mate.

SaKson7-lunchboKsrider wrote:CF, if all those wires were going to the chair, what were they doing?

Front light, rear light, indicators, daytime light, interior light, boot (trunk) light, radio, windscreen wiper, heated seat...............

........haven't got the microwave installed yet!

Paul.

sidecar paul wrote:

SaKson7-lunchboKsrider wrote:CF, if all those wires were going to the chair, what were they doing?

Front light, rear light, indicators, daytime light, interior light, boot (trunk) light, radio, windscreen wiper, heated seat...............

........haven't got the microwave installed yet!

Paul.

Yes I have a microwave, colour TV and Internet. You will be invited for a popcorn party when the microwave will be re-installed.

Today I was trying to remove the sub frame and was unsuccessful. I was ready to resign when I finally found how EML installed it. Cleaver!
As soon as I will get the puller for the steering bearing, I will post pictures.

CF

Rick G wrote:
Here is a basic on leading link. Earls fork type

Might help with a starter

Thanks Rick.

What is really important is the 50mm. This is why a leading fork makes it easy to steer.
Without the steering damper, the EML could be steered with 2 fingers on the handle bar.
This is to light, and this is why you need a steering damper to make it a bit stiffer.
Also because of the 50mm, the bike has the tendency to lift when you brake.

CF

10 sidecarist will give you 10 differing opinions to any topic .........and generally they are all right!

Personally I think that 50mm trail is too much for a K. Robin Rhind-Tutt (Mr Wasp) told me that my forks have 13mm trail when I collected them from the Wasp factory.

It's all a matter of what works for you.

Paul.

I think that you are right Paul.
Mine is set at the minimum (around 30mm).
This is another good feature of EML. You have 2 different preset choices.
My fork is already off, and soon I will post pictures and dimensions.
Who knows, we may become experts and get the best flexible design.

CF

With the stock forks and rake, I already feel the steering is light enough on mine. I have a steering damper there that I haven't bothered to use so far. I imagine this all depends on where your third wheel sits in relation to the bike's. ?

sidecar paul wrote:10 sidecarist will give you 10 differing opinions to any topic .........and generally they are all right!

Personally I think that 50mm trail is too much for a K. Robin Rhind-Tutt (Mr Wasp) told me that my forks have 13mm trail when I collected them from the Wasp factory.

It's all a matter of what works for you.

Paul.

Do you know the angle of the fork tubes as against the steering head Paul, 13mm is very low if the geometry is the same as standard for a K. Just thinking your axle must be forward of the centre line of the fork tubes.

Albyalbatross1 wrote:Yes..Thanks Crazy for sharing and the sharing to come. Bert 2.0 I will put up the materials and tucker if this 3Legs character gets back to me with some info about his leading links.

I too promised myself no MORE!!!! But somehow one more K is on its way!!1 Need a tug for my Hack

Mate I'll be there with bells on(or at least my welding helmet).
So whats the deal with the new K, when do we see pics of this rig?
Thanks for the pics CF. Will keep doing research or wait until you put more info up.

Hi Rick, the fork yokes are standard K.



The straight edge is lined up, by eye, with the fork tubes.

(Don't you just love modern technology......5 minutes and I can set up and post a pic to the rest of the world.)

Paul.

I just love the technology. I was involved in all that sort of stuff for a lot of my working life and it never ceases to amaze me at what is being done. I started out in 1965 when the transistor radio was getting smaller all the time and thought that was just wonderful and now you can get 3/4 of the library of congress on a chip as big as my little fingernail.
Getting back to the bikes as you say not much trail and the axle is way in front of the centreline.
I was trying to find any notes I had from when I built a couple of kneeler frames in 1969 but I dont think they exist any more. Found a lot of other interesting stuff like frame plans for drag bikes and dragster chassis and one for a funny car that was never built.
Is that a rear Y spoke wheel on the front?

No Rick, it's a Wasp 15" front wheel with the same Y spoke design. (Even more difficult to clean than the 18" BMW wheel)

One of my model engineering friends in the Black Country Live Steamers machined all the wheel castings for Wasps and did the work on the Wasp motocross engine. It's a small world.

Paul.

i was at premier sidecars in bathurst a while ago and happened to notice that the steel he uses for his leading links it was about 40mm dia and had a wall thickness about 10mm i thought it would be a rude to ask to borrow a tape measure and start taking measurements

Waddya mean...."about" 40mm??

i wasnt wearing my glasses so i only guessin where that emtocon for blind as bat

Whats wrong with "about 40mm", its like the special measurements of a poofteenth, a tad and a bee's dick.

All acceptable increments of measurement in my book.

Don't worry Col some people just don't understand these finer points.

col wrote: ............. and had a wall thickness about 10mm........

Really!!!!

(Wasp forks are made with Reynolds 531.....only the best!)

Crazy Frog wrote:

Today I was trying to remove the sub frame and was unsuccessful. I was ready to resign when I finally found how EML installed it. Cleaver!
As soon as I will get the puller for the steering bearing, I will post pictures.

CF

Bearing in off (I had to grind it), had to buy a 38mm socket and have it machined down to a 47 mm outside diameter. Came back home and successfully removed the *!#%@ big screw. Tomorrow I will finally drop the sub frame and take pictures.

CF

10 pm and couldn't go to sleep before I could see the sub frame off.
As soon as our guest leaved, I went in the workshop and got it off.
My socket machined down by Barry at RPM Cycle worked perfectly. Now, I will have a good night rest. No more worries!
Here is the first pic of the sub frame off...



More pictures and explanation coming soon.

By the way, I tried cleaning the aluminum on the cylinder side of the cam chain cover. Can you see the difference? Not shiny yet, but it's coming

CF

Today I took a vacation day and worked for few hours on the bike.
I remove the gear box to find the leak. As expected, it's the output shaft leaking. It wouldn't be a big deal, but the clutch is full of oil. I believe that I have a used spare one but may consider installing a new one.
The second leak is at the back of the gear box at the usual spot. The rubber boot on the clutch mechanism is missing a chunk.

Here are few pictures:

First, here is the best way to secure the bike. The bike is on the lift (Notice the angle iron screwed to the oil pan), a rope is tied between the front frame and the ceiling rafter. The back rests on a wooden support and is secured with a set of C clamps.





There is a lot of oil in the clutch bell housing


The rubber boot on the gear box is missing a big chunk:


but good news, the drive shaft is perfect:


Now for people wanting to attach a sidecar, here are the details of the sub frame.
I did a quick drawing and I will later dimension it:



The nut (green) is right under the bearing and I couldn't see it. Everything was packed with grease. I had to cut the bearing in order to pull it out, then I had to have a socket machined to fit in the tube.




A couple of pictures of the subframe (The sidecar use 3 points to attach on it)




The 4th point to attach the sidecar is on the bike`s frame




The distance between the 2 tees on the fork has been extended to accommodate the subframe mount



The shaft where the taper bearings are installed is longer than the original.


The other feature is the double swing arm (I found that the back shocks are 2 different lengths.


This was my day, and now the big cleanup will start and I will start to fix what has to be fixed.

CF

Good work and pictures Bert; looking forward to further reports.

It's a shame they don't go back together as quickly as they come apart.

Cheers,

Paul.

Just found something interesting.

The rubber boot on the clutch mechanism has the same reference # as the ones on the old R bikes.
They are expensive, but Check this. Only $4.50

AHHH Yes the Vacation Day...I am guilty of doing this...It is a choice between not concentrating at work or being home up to your armpits in good fun K Bike work!! Its an easy choice!! Keep the info coming..Thanks..

Great work CF Good to see the splines are tip top , CF does it have the 6 rivet aux drive or the 12 and if the six or don't know are you going to inspect ?.

Halo

Halo wrote:Great work CF Good to see the splines are tip top , CF does it have the 6 rivet aux drive or the 12 and if the six or don't know are you going to inspect ?.
Halo

The bike is a 1985 and it has the 6 rivets shaft.
I will remove the crankshaft cover for a preliminary visual inspection. If I see anything suspicious, I will open the engine.
The engine is only 65,000 km and it runs smooth without any mechanical noise.
The water/oil pump has be done last year.

I just found an oil resistant clutch disc here. I didn't know that they exist.

CF

Motobins have them CF, part no 30500HD.

Paul.

in the drawing for the front forks it says 27.5 and 29 degrees how is that done? I understand ours to be 26.5 stock with 56mm offset from the center of the steering head stem to the center of the forks have they fabricated u a lower tripple tree? or both???

K75 that would be the rake in the trees from head stem centreline
and they just moved the bottom tree downwards just adding a piece to make the head stem longer
Tony

yep it must be they're own trees then as ours are same top and bottom