It is meant to touch, that holds the seal in the correct place with tension on the seal face from the spring in the seal.

Oh boy. I put off the water pump re-seal as long as possible, expecting the same leaky results. Today I plodded along at a snails pace on reassembly with the new seals (again) and the cast impeller boss trimmed by 3mm. So far no leaks on start up and warm up tho I have yet to ride it since it is threatening snow here. On the previous attempts I had leaks immediately on start up so I am cautiously optimistic this is now 'solved'. I won't declare it formally yet until I've gone for a spin. Thanks to all who collaborated with me.

a premeture "horray" might be in order then clubie .......good persistence ol mate ....and a pat on the back

good colaboration kfreak yay !!

She'll be right. The seal was getting destroyed as soon as it started so all will be good and ready for summer.

I agree Freak. I'm surprised my supplier didn't tumble to that. They're pretty good usually.

i guess most assume you have replaced all the bits and gone to the new impeller clubbie

And it's the assumptions that do you in.

Well I'm happy to report the oil pump is no longer leaking from the weep hole. However, it is leaking from the seam between the block and pump body. I've had it off and on 4X, and cannot keep it sealed. At intial start up it seems fine, but after a short ride, I have oil leaking. No coolant, just oil. Now, I'm just using a sealant, no gasket, but I don't recall there being a gasket there. I've torqued the bolts to 5 ft/lbs. I could really use some advice on this one. I'd like to remove it only one more time...

PS, it never leaked before I removed it for the shaft seal replacements.

its not comming from the oil presure sensor is it ? this could explain oil down there ...maybe ?

It's coming from above the oil sensor, and running through the sensor wire hole. Looks like it's more at the top of the pump body.

ah ! gotcha ...

seems like mine is suffereing the same little weep ....after a closer inspection today .

im off to get new bolts for the 5 short screws ..i may have not tightened them up properly

they were kinda difficult to remove in the first instance ..being full of junk and some slight rounding off may have occured ...nice new heads might help with the torquing up ...

but i suspect that i didnt install the sealant absolutly along the line of that high rise of the oil pump body to the engine crankcase .

club_c wrote:I've had it off and on 4X, and cannot keep it sealed. At intial start up it seems fine, but after a short ride, I have oil leaking.

And you did try different sealants?

Did have a similar issue some years ago, did try 3 or 4 different sealants...ended up with Permatex black RTV...the pump haven`t leaked drop of oil since then...and that was about 16-17 years ago.

And of course clean and degreased surfaces is a must.

good point inge ...

Yes, two different sealants, tho the one I'm using now is a Loctite anaroebic sealant, and it's leaking like a basket. I was looking for a different sealant suggestion. I'll try the black RTV.

I just could add that when the leak between the pump body and the block did start on mine, the pump haven`t even been disturbed in front.

Yes, the joint face is on the high pressure side of the oil pump so needs a sealant specifically for high pressure joints. I once used ordinary Hylomar and lost two pints of oil in 60 miles!
Paul.

I recently had this same leak. I used a permatex anerobic 2-stage flange sealant. It has a primer spray that you put on first and increases the size of gap it will fill. That finally did the trick.

There is also that little u shaped return hole on the engine side. Supposedly if it is blocked then you will get a leak in this area (at about the 1:00 position). But I could never figure out how this hole works or makes any difference as it aligns with the solid mating surface of the pump.

Also, be sure that you pull the oil gear in flush with the pump surface. When you pull the shaft in through the water seal (using the sheet metal impeller at least) the gear still sticks out a few millimeters. so you need to add a spacer to pull it through a bit further. I got that from here.

That leak is a pain because it takes so much to get back into it if it is not sealing. When I was messing with it i would stick a bent q-tip up through the access hole and wiggle it around to check for the leak. My heart would sink if I removed it and saw oil. Now that it is fixed I don't even risk looking at it sideways.

I think I've got it. Black RTV, let it set up for two days after reassembly, 50 kms, still dry. Here's hoping. Tentatively marked as 'solved'.

yahooo !!!

Good job club_c!
Fingers crossed!

club_c wrote:I think I've got it. Black RTV, let it set up for two days after reassembly, 50 kms, still dry. Here's hoping. Tentatively marked as 'solved'.

I'm reciting incantations on your behalf Club C. Here's hopin'

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