2 Re: EFI Module Mon Jul 18, 2011 7:27 am
Rick G
admin
I have some spares and have tested them also I usually take mine out if I am doing any welding on the bike.
Do you have a problem or do you need to know how to get it out.
On my K75 there is a small hole in the tool tray where you put a screwdriver so as to lift the locking clip and then remove the multi pin plug and take the tool tray out with the ECU still in place.
Do you have a problem or do you need to know how to get it out.
On my K75 there is a small hole in the tool tray where you put a screwdriver so as to lift the locking clip and then remove the multi pin plug and take the tool tray out with the ECU still in place.
3 Re: EFI Module Mon Jul 18, 2011 8:50 am
8675k
active member
No I was just wondering if it can cause an intermittent problem. I ahve been having frustrating issues with this bike for over a year and have replaced everything except the electronic ignition module and the EFI.
I have deoxited all the connections and am still fighting with intermittent and erratic running. One minut the bike runs great the next it will not even idle and smokes...????
I have deoxited all the connections and am still fighting with intermittent and erratic running. One minut the bike runs great the next it will not even idle and smokes...????
4 Re: EFI Module Mon Jul 18, 2011 10:22 am
Rick G
admin
I am presuming you mean black sooty smoke and not white oil smoke.
Two things I would look for first one is the ignition module/hallsensors and associated connectors and the other is with the temperature sensor. If the temp sensor is faulty and goes open circuit the ECU thinks it is very cold and gives a very rich mixture which would account for the smoke. Any of the connectors in that circuit could cause the o/c condition and fool the ECU (they are not very smart) into a cold condition.
The sensor is on top of the engine behind the radiator. (I see you have done this already)
Another thing is poor vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator,the line comes of the #3 injector body and is a spring covered rubber hose and cracks with age.
There have been other threads about this I will see if I can scout them up as they may shed some light on things for you.
Just started to find some links and noticed that you have been at this problem for quite some time.
In a previous thread you mension that you replaced the air flow meter and it was ok for a short time.
I really think you have a bad connector in there some where but of course where is the question. Some of the guys have found lately that due to the age and repeated pluging and unpluging the female part is expanding and getting lose have you been over the connectors and made sure they are contacting well.
I had the same problem with the fuel pump connector at the rear of the tank and eventually replaced the thing and Charlie99 has had a similar problem as well as club-c.
I would be almost willing to be some very important bits that it is a crook connector or broken wire. Check the wires for breaks inside the insulation right at the connectors, just give them a bit of a pull and see if the insulation stretches or breaks off that is where club-c's problem was.
Chasing intermittant electrical problems can be exceptionally fustrating and you must be a patient person I reckon I would have thrown it out onto the street for the crows to feed on by now.
One thing that can help find these things is to make things so you can run the bike with the tank on the bench by extending the fuel lines and the fuel pump wiring and then you can play with the wires under the tank area while it is running and shake them around etc.
Two things I would look for first one is the ignition module/hallsensors and associated connectors and the other is with the temperature sensor. If the temp sensor is faulty and goes open circuit the ECU thinks it is very cold and gives a very rich mixture which would account for the smoke. Any of the connectors in that circuit could cause the o/c condition and fool the ECU (they are not very smart) into a cold condition.
The sensor is on top of the engine behind the radiator. (I see you have done this already)
Another thing is poor vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator,the line comes of the #3 injector body and is a spring covered rubber hose and cracks with age.
There have been other threads about this I will see if I can scout them up as they may shed some light on things for you.
Just started to find some links and noticed that you have been at this problem for quite some time.
In a previous thread you mension that you replaced the air flow meter and it was ok for a short time.
I really think you have a bad connector in there some where but of course where is the question. Some of the guys have found lately that due to the age and repeated pluging and unpluging the female part is expanding and getting lose have you been over the connectors and made sure they are contacting well.
I had the same problem with the fuel pump connector at the rear of the tank and eventually replaced the thing and Charlie99 has had a similar problem as well as club-c.
I would be almost willing to be some very important bits that it is a crook connector or broken wire. Check the wires for breaks inside the insulation right at the connectors, just give them a bit of a pull and see if the insulation stretches or breaks off that is where club-c's problem was.
Chasing intermittant electrical problems can be exceptionally fustrating and you must be a patient person I reckon I would have thrown it out onto the street for the crows to feed on by now.
One thing that can help find these things is to make things so you can run the bike with the tank on the bench by extending the fuel lines and the fuel pump wiring and then you can play with the wires under the tank area while it is running and shake them around etc.
Last edited by K Freak on Mon Jul 18, 2011 10:51 am; edited 1 time in total
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"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived." Dalai Lama
Bikes 1999 K1100 LT with a Big Block 1200
5 Re: EFI Module Mon Jul 18, 2011 10:42 am
8675k
active member
The temp sensor was the first item I replace and the fuel pressure reg and hose. I've had this thing filleted open like flounder and the only components I have not replaced are the ignition module and the fuel module. I originally had a rotten boot and replaced all three at that time. The original problem began after it sat for the winter and all of a sudden started acting this way. I put a battery in it as well as hall sensors, plugs,fuel pump, reg, air flow meter nd replaced a questionable connector and went through the tests from this forum as well. Just about the time I think I resolved the problem it starts the erratic stumbling and sooty exhaust. I wiggle and tug all thru the harness and can't seem to change the problem! I also put injectors in this past weekend to no avail!!!
I have scoured the internet and this forum relentlessly but cannot resolve this thing.
I am having a hard time believing one of the modules is bad or the problem wouldn't be so intermittent or can they cause this issue?
I have scoured the internet and this forum relentlessly but cannot resolve this thing.
I am having a hard time believing one of the modules is bad or the problem wouldn't be so intermittent or can they cause this issue?
6 Re: EFI Module Mon Jul 18, 2011 10:50 am
japuentes
Life time member
Hi there, I would check all the HT coils´s primary conections and wires and the coils if you haven´t done so yet.
Best regards
JAP
Best regards
JAP
7 Re: EFI Module Mon Jul 18, 2011 10:58 am
Rick G
admin
There was a guy a short while ago that replaced a ignition module that was intermittant. I have never experienced one that was like that they usually just turn up the toes and die. They are about $1400 new from BMW but you would most likely get one from fleabay at a much better price.
http://k100rt.aforumfree.com/t2287-89-k100-lt-tachometer-wont-work-and-engine-runs-rough-for-no-appearent-reason-changed-plugs-checked-relays-fuses-wires-under-tank-need-help-ran-fine-in-january
http://k100rt.aforumfree.com/t2287-89-k100-lt-tachometer-wont-work-and-engine-runs-rough-for-no-appearent-reason-changed-plugs-checked-relays-fuses-wires-under-tank-need-help-ran-fine-in-january
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