Dang it!! The last caliper to bleed and the bleeder screw twisted off flush with the caliper when I tried to open it. Fortunately it's still seated so not leaking, but cannot complete the brake flush until I get it out. Anyone have an awesome trick aside from a trip to a machine shop?

have you thought of an "easy out " these things are either trouble or helpfull,
basically they are a square sectioned tool steel grade (only the good ones ) device with a left hand thread ....the idea is , as you wind the "easyout " into the hole created by the broken bit ....the sides bite into the metal of the old hole that has been created .....with the normal unscrewing motion (you might have to use a "tapp handle" for this ) the tool will unscrew the locked in section of the old bit ....hope that makes sence

good luck !!!!

Yup, used them before, they're either a Godsend or the Devil himself if they break off in the hole. They're so hard they are difficult to drill out if they break...

Easy outs are the biz! That's what I used after centre drilling that dastardly 10mm frame bolt a coupla months ago. A bleed screw oughta be easy since there's already a hole in it. Good luck.

I agree with TWB & Charlie Easy outs are a useful way out of this mess just take it easy, I have two types the straight fluted Hirlinger type and the standard taperd, I must say in the taperd type I prefer the snap-on short ones as there is less length to snap, good luck.

BIG D

I have had good luck with easyouts. Drill the bleeder out to use the largest easyout that will fit. I always heat the screw with a torch until it starts to glow, then stick in the easy out and quickly unscrew it. Have done it to numerous cars and trucks, never had to on the motorcycle (knock on wood).

Just a warning note I would not advise heating to glow point on an alloy calliper OK on cast iron callipers but I suspect could be a problem with ours. Warming up with hot air or even a soldering iron held on the broken bleed nipple and then put a drop of penetrating oil made with acetone and ATF then let it sit overnight before atacking it with the easyout. Don't get any on the rubber bits though. Get genuine high quality easyouts such as Snapon there is an interesting site http://www.brokentap.com/easy-outs.html who has some interesting comment on problems.
Regards,
K-BIKE

A couple of pics of what I use in general SNAP-ON short easy outs and
Hirlinger type fluted easy stud extractors.

BIG D

nice stuff !!!!

Got it fixed. Had my brake shop try to weld a washer to the stubby end left, and then weld a nut to the washer to turn it out, but the weld was too weak and just broke away from the screw. Tried easyout but wouldn't bite well enough and I was very fearful of breaking it off and then having to figure out how to drill out a hardened steel tip. So.... bought a threaded tap and drilled to recommended size (number on the tap) and tapped out the hole like nothing. The seat portion of the screw stayed inside the hole at the bottom but I drilled a 1/16th hole in the center of it and it came out on the bit. The drilling is quite easy if you do it in stages since it already has the bleeder hole down the center.

BTW, the thread is a 10 X 1.0 if you need that info.

Well done club-c great stuff,

BIG D

Excellent stuff club_c
Regards,
K-BIKE

great work club_c ....congrats !!!

Well done
I fixed a snapped bleeder on a CX in similar way
the centre hole acts as a pilot drill and I found careful
drilling out allowed me to pick out the remnants then clean it all up