Does anyone have a "HOW TO" for removing the fairing?
My 1988 K100LT won't start. My mechanic said it was because of low battery voltage and a bad starter relay. The battery is now holding steady at 12.8V and the relay SEEMS fine (I've uploaded pictures-see 4A-1 contact point is worn and does not make contact-does this matter?) and I cleaned the spark plugs.
Now I'm wondering if the relay that controls the Fuel Pump might be the problem.
This is my first motorcycle purchase ever and my only transportation so I'm really trying to learn.
Any information would be great appreciated.

One more thing. When apply electricity to the relay the magnet does work and the top bar does come down BUT only one of the 'dimples' makes contact. This does not seem like it should make a difference but am I wrong?

There are two contacts in the starter relay to ensure that there is enough current carrying capacity to provide full voltage and current to the starter motor. If only one of the two movable contacts is making, then it is possible that the relay is limiting the current that can be provided to the starter, resulting in the starter not turning (because it can't get enough electricity to turn against the resistance offered by the engine). Reference


Have you attempted to form and file the contacts to make the second contact make? You could best achieve this by forming (bending) the fixed contact upwards and file the two mating contacts (fixed and movable) with a fine file. The objective would be to flatten the two faces to make their surfaces parallel to ensure full electrical contact. This would be a temporary measure to get you going. The best solution is to replace the relay. Good used ones are available from many online sources. It is possible to substitute the starter relay. The original BMW part number - 61311459008 - can be subtituted with a Bosch starter relay 0332002161. Check any local Bosch automotive aftermarket service center. BMW Part Replacement DB

Have you tested the starter motor. Remove it from the motorcycle and try it across the battery. Observe safety by clamping the motor down to a secure base and make sure not to short the positive lead to the starter case. It may be that your starter motor needs to be opened and serviced.

Hope that is of some help.

I will try the bending and filing first. I won't have the money for new parts of any kind for a few more weeks but once I do a new starter relay will be 1st on the list.
Thanks so much for the advice! I'll let you now how it goes.
-JR

Hi there, once you remove the starter, dismantle and clean it and check the brushes. A dirty starter will cause a lot of strange and random failures.
Best regards
JAP

I'll do that. I'm going to see if it starts first with the adjusted starter relay but I'll get to the starter as soon as I figure how to get the fairing off without breaking it.
Trying to find a step by step on removing the fairing now.

The starter relay is no longer serviceable it needs to be replaced. You may have some success adjusting the contacts but one contact is missing and the usual result of this is the contacts welding together and the starter engaging full time untill the battery is flat or the starter burns out or the relay melts, more likely the flat battery.
There are other relays that will do the job but as far as I know only the genuine fits in that place.
It will pay to make sure the starter is in good condition as it can play havoc with the general electrics if it is not good, all sorts of strange things happen. The first thing that is noticed is that the indicators all flash together when either side is activated.

Good luck

jr wrote:I'll do that. I'm going to see if it starts first with the adjusted starter relay but I'll get to the starter as soon as I figure how to get the fairing off without breaking it.
Trying to find a step by step on removing the fairing now.

The fairing doesn't have to be removed to pull the starter out.
If you want to buy a new relay, the best price is here

I was pulling the fairing off to get the gas tank off, to get to the other relays, and also just to learn how.
Now that I know it really could be the Starter Relay I'll deal with that first.

Thank you for the link, big A+.

K freak - somehow waht you said about the relay no longer being serviceable just sank in. THANK YOU. No idea why I missed that even though I responded.... hmmm - maybe my S-wife was right afterall!

for the record (looks like i already know the answer):
Today-UPDATE on Starter relay. No dice.

Today I put my old STARTER RELAY in that I tried to fix myself by filing the 1 bad point a bit to make contact again.
It did not start.

What did happen was:
a. when I press the starter button the headlight does dim and the engine turns over.
b. when I release the starter button I hear a "hissing" sound that does not sound wrong.

Is the hissing sound the fuel pump and if so is that an indication that my fuel pump is fine? (oh please please)
and if so should I assume that my starter relay fix just was not good
enough and I should try a new starter relay before I try anything else?

Note- I should also add that my bike had a full tune up and once over by
a very good mechanic in Carol Gardens just last November. That same
mechanic saw my bike 2 hours after it first stalled and was kind enough
to give me his opinion of what was wrong on the spot.
He was very convinced that the problem was Low Voltage in the battery that lead to a bad starter relay.

At the time I didn't realize i was charging my battery on a 6V battery
tender - I've since corrected that but Tom (the mechanic) was right on
the low voltage.

Again - should I just invest in a new starter relay before i do anything
else? Hate to admit it but even the $50 for that is a stretch at the
moment.

Another Fairing issue. The link was useful but not quite 100% for my bike. Unlike the K75RT the K100LT has those crash bars attached to the engine block that go through the lower fairing.
The instructions don't say anything about how to get them off.
When I look in the Fairing I see one allen wrench bolt and a grippable area on the bar itself, that about it.
Any advice how to get that off safely?
-JR

ROBMAC - is there any reason this part wouldn't work?
It was recommended to me and only costs $46 with shipping.

part Number - 0 332 002 150

http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays_0332002150.asp

Hey jr, to get the crash bars off, pull the cap off the end of the crash bars and if you look in there toward the engine, you'll see a nut. You'll need an extension bar to reach it with your socket. The two on the bottom are easy.
Martin

Ahhhh. Ya know I really thought so but I didn't want to pull off the cap unless i was sure. Very cool. I'm liking this bike more and more (even though it's not even running). I assume I'l need an extension longer than the 4 inch one I have. I can do that.
Thanks MArtin,
JR

The more you tear it apart, the more you'll like it. It's a very well thought out design for the most part. I had mine down to the engine on a block of wood, mostly to see how it's put together and to replace 25 year old rubber parts. Got most of it back together and am just waiting for another water pump seal, messed the 1st one up(don't ask how). I hope I have it back together for the warm weather, which according to the weatherman is still a week away.
Martin

jr wrote:ROBMAC - is there any reason this part wouldn't work?
It was recommended to me and only costs $46 with shipping.

part Number - 0 332 002 150

http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays_0332002150.asp

The electrical specifications are sufficient to meet the K100 requirements. The terminal configuration appears to be correct also. I haven't measured the physical dimensions of my starter relay so can't attest to whether that replacement will fit in the space provided in the fuse box. So, bottom line is that it should work but I would first verify the physical dimensions prior to ordering one. I assume that the $46 price is much lower than a new BMW original. Good find. I've bookmarked the page for my reference.

P.S. I was viewing the products they have available. They sell IP56 rocker switches that will fit the holes in the K100LT dash and handlebar dash. The price is right and they sell different configurations -- SPST, DPST, momentary, etc. Very nice.

Low battery voltage can and often does damage the starter relay. What happens is that because the voltage is low the starter doesnt turn at the normal speed and so drags more current and that in turn makes the starter relay contacts overheat and weld.

The headlight should go off when the load share relay cuts in but it wont cut in because by the time its circuit is made the battery voltage is too low to opperate it but the starter relay will hold in if it has not welded because it was already opperated and needs less current to just hold it in.

The starter relay overheats and the silver solder that holds the platinium contacts on melts and the contact falls off and the relay is then cactus.

The fuel pump will run on for 1.5 seconds after the starter button is released and makes a whiring sound from inside the fuel tank.

Make sure the battery is right up to speed. I am not 100% sure with the BMW but many other Bosch systems wont fire if the battery voltage drops past a predetermined level (usually 8.5 - 9.5 volts) when the starter is engaged. This could be the problem. If as you say the thing was hooked up to a 6 volt charger the battery quite probably would be damaged enough to prevent starting and the other problems.

I always remember what my father told me as a kid. "Son if it has tits or wheels it will give you trouble".

Ah, so that's why my cow is giving me grief. That's what you meant, right??

robmack wrote:Ah, so that's why my cow is giving me grief. That's what you meant, right??

Yep that'll do it every time.

ROBMAC - The guy at Texas Industrial really knows his stuff and didn't pretend to know anything he didn't know. The one thing this relay does NOT have is a resistor in it. Steve at TI made that very clear but also said it should cause no problems as he's sold this on e in place of the others many times and as far as dimensions I can also return the relay for $5 shipping if it does not fit.
BTW - the original part costs about $90 - which they can order if needed.

K Freak - I see in your picture a trailer behind the same bike I think I own (same color even). It says right in the manual that you should never tow behind these bikes. Thoughts?

cows females wheelchairs............... we have all 3 upstate NY and they all 3 always need fixin.

jr wrote:K Freak - I see in your picture a trailer behind the same bike I think I own (same color even). It says right in the manual that you should never tow behind these bikes. Thoughts?

Been doin it for years without problems. Juat about all the manufacturers will say no towing but I have never seen a problem that was caused because of having a trailer. I have seen many because of fools towing them and bad engineering etc.

That trailer is 230kg loaded and has disc brakes with an override coupling and load distribution bars and tows like a dream.