Apparently I have an issue with the Gear Position Indicator on the Orange/Marakesh Red K75S. And if I'm going to have to go in there me thinks I ought to do the splines as well. I'm pretty sure they haven't been done in the past ten years. Anyway I found Drake Smith's most excellent pdf's of a step by step what needs to be done disassembly and re-assembly. Unfortunately it is for a K1100_ABSII. Here is the link if anyone would like it: http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/splinelube/K1100_ABSII_Spline_Lube_Checklist.pdf
But now my question has anyone done anything similar for the venerable K75 or K100 two valve bikes? Or even just gone through Mr. Smith's directions and marked which ones aren't appropriate for a non-abs K75/K100?

thanks.
J.

Before you go any further, do you have a sawhorse or similar to hold up the back end of the bike? Another item which I've found invaluable is a couple of 100mm x 10mm bolts with the heads cut off. When reassembling the gearbox to the engine, wind the bolts in finger-tight at the 10 and 2 oclock positions. You can then slide the gearbox forward and they'll take the weight while you line up the clutch splines.

There's two schools of thought on supporting the bike while removing the the gearbox. 

- the Chris Harris method of shoving a box under the engine to support the bike. For me, this one has no pros and all cons because you have no room to wiggle the gearbox back on
- the forum-approved method   of going the four extra bolts and removing the seat and mudguard/fender so you can push a sawhorse under the frame and lift the mainstand clear of the ground. This is much more stable and gives you the room to come at the gearbox from the top.

Both the Clymer and Haynes manuals have pretty decent explanations on how to remove the gearbox. For some odd reason, both seem to favour the Chris Harris method...

Search 'spline lube' or 'sawhorse' on the forum. I can't comment on sawhorse size etc. because I was the awkward bastard that made a metal foldaway version from angle-iron as I only have a small garage.

Firstly take the seat off, side covers, pannier racks and then the rear mudguard.  Loosen the two 10mm nuts in the ducktail and then remove the two rear screws to remove the mudguard.  Then remove the rear wheel and roll it backwards.  You now have plenty of room to access the other stuff.  Leave the exhaust in place.  

I just place a jack under the engine, place a few pieces of wood under the engine and then lower and remove the jack.  I also have a small seat to sit on.  If you are taking the gearbox off to remove the gear indicator then you may as well clean the spines on the bench.  Take the weight of the FD 90 degree gearbox with blocks of wood before removing, after you have removed the speedo cable and rear brake.  I hang the brake unit there with a piece of lockwire until the foot peg side plate is removed.  Keep the FD gearbox upright whilst removed otherwise oil will leak out through the upper breather.  If this happens then you have just created unnecessary extra work for yourself.  Remove the rear suspension unit to give yourself more room.  Everything else as per above.  

Some people will say, there is no need to remove certain things, etc.  That's fine but as I starting out working on aeroplanes, I am used to removing what I think is sufficient to make the job easier for me.  

The K75 clutch mechanism is different to the K100, so ensure you use the correct procedure.  Check the circular boot at the rear for any cracks or splits.  Replace if in doubt because this will leak oil which I have experienced.  When refitting the gearbox to a K75 frame (as compared to a K100) you will find it very, very helpful if you have a third hand.  

If the gearbox is off, it is always a good time to check the clutch plates and the engine rear oil seal.  Look directly below the clutch plates to the housing drain hole to check if there is an oil leak from the seal.  Then wipe the housing clean to remove any small amounts of debris or oil.  

When you finally arrive at the GPI, give it a good clean and look for obvious damage.  When I last checked mine the outer body had started to crack, so I covered it in Silastic to waterproof it and have had no problems.  

Upon re-fitment apply a thin smear of grease to the swingarm pivot pins.  

I have a rather long Snap On 1/2" drive breaker bar which is a very useful tool to have for this job.  Use a small amount of anti-seize on all the bolts you refit.  A dab on a couple of threads is sufficient.  Torque all the bolts to their recommended values upon refitment.  It will give you peace of mind if nothing else.  Have a set of Torx* bits on hand in case you strip the Allen Head on a gearbox bolt.  The technique is described elsewhere.  

AND clean everything you take off as you go.  Give yourself a full day to complete the job if you have not done it before.  

Hopefully this will make the job a little easier.

My preferred method is a sawhorse through the middle of the frame: