Has anyone had any experience with the corrugated plastic fuel line that comes in the kit. It comes in black or white.
Regards Martin.

No experience of the Quantum hose your refer to but my Husqvarna 610 EI had corrugated plastic fuel hose which worked perfectly. The corrugations assist in making tight bends without the internal hose collapsing in on itself and the plastic (must of course be fuel hose plastic) seems impervious to degrading over time due to fuel immersion. I'm surprised this type of hose in not more commonly available because submersible hose is not cheap.
I note the 2 oetiker hose clamps in your picture. Over time there has been plenty of posts asking about oetiker clamp compressing pliers which tend to be expensive. The smart cheaper alternative is get a pair of CV boot clamp pliers and if the jaw edges are too sharp just file them down a bit.

The Oetiker clamps that are in the picture aren't supplied with the kit. The do however give you two cable ties. If I could source Oetiker clamps I could use a pair off modified end snips. 
Regards Martin.

Mmmm (puts that one into the long-term BMW memory bank).

Any product with this kind of name would trigger immediately disconfidence from my point of view.

MartinW wrote:The Oetiker clamps that are in the picture aren't supplied with the kit. The do however give you two cable ties. If I could source Oetiker clamps I could use a pair off modified end snips.

You could use standard rolled-edge fuel injection hose clamps, Martin although they're not exactly super cheap at Supercheap if they're there at all.

I've got a cheaper source of fuel injection hose clamps. Motorsport Accessories Brendale do a blister pack of 6 for about $12.00 Au. I had a look in my hose clamp box and it's a multiple choice Oetiker, fuel injection clamps, spring clamps and worm drive. The hose clamping is not the problem it's the fuel line. I have accumulated 3 corrugated plastic lines but never used them and it could be going on a mates Brick. I do have SAE 30 R10 on hand so I could just use it. With the amount of Quantum kits around I thought there would have been more usage.
Regards Martin.

I just finished Bruce's Brick I ended up going with the hose. I just couldn't get myself to use the corrugated plastic stuff. We also lubed his drive shaft and tried his new shaft in the housing, it doesn't fit. Charlie has final drive housings with larger orifices. So I'll send him a PM.
Regards Martin.

MartinW wrote:We also lubed his drive shaft and tried his new shaft in the housing, it doesn't fit. Charlie has final drive housings with larger orifices.

It's the driveshaft's rear socket coupling that wouldn't fit in the final drive housing?

Anyway, those corrugated in-tank pump hoses are making in-roads everywhere. Euro Motoelectrics is even offering them and asserting they meet SAE J30R10 standards, and that company's name is much less pretentious than Quantum. I haven't substantiated EME's claim but it would sadden me to start mistrusting them. It could be time for a field trial from somebody here who has a suitable length of J30R10 or NBR-NBR to carry as backup.

It's the front universal that just misses out going through by around a millimetre. I'd prefer not to ream out his existing one. Laitch by all means If you want to give the flex hose a trial go for it, it would save me the effort. I did think about hooking one to my compressor and seeing what the failure pressure was.
Regards Martin.

MartinW wrote:It's the front universal that just misses out going through by around a millimetre.

Mine was like that from the factory. I'd pop the driveshaft free from its lock ring while it was engaged within the swing arm to the transmission output shaft, I'd remove the swing arm, then I'd remove the driveshaft. I have done it that way the other two times because I couldn't do it any other way unless I was willing to deploy a grinder to make clearance, which I rejected. The Brick had run well for 40,000 miles until that point so the method didn't bother me although I had fleeting moment of "Why Me" until I had some café cubano; then the sun came out.

Later, I discovered that the Haynes manual describes a similar method in Chapter 8 Section 5 Swinging arm and driveshaft: removal except the driveshaft remains locked to the transmission output shaft, the swing arm is withdrawn, then the driveshaft is decoupled from its lock ring and pulled off.

Now I wonder if we're discussing the same condition.

Over the years I've done quite a few different bikes and just pulled the driveshaft out of the swing arm. It wasn't until I got the driveshaft off a mate that I had to remove the swing arm. This driveshaft is going onto another mates bike that won't accept the shaft without removing the swingarm. Charlie has quite a few swingarms and has found two different size openings, so we are going that route.
Regards Martin.