So my bike has been converted to a round headlight, but the wrong lens has been used. From what I can see it seems the correct lens would be more expensive than just replacing the light with an LED. Even a non-Ebay, ADR compliant, locally sourced LED. Something like https://www.stedi.com.au/stedi-7-inch-carbon-charcoal-led-headlight.html 

My electrical skills are rudimentary at best, what do I need to know? Will I need a Canbus cancellation module to avoid warning lights or is my 01/85 K100RS too early for that? Is there some other mistake I can make that will result in a small or large electrical fire?

Give me your tips, please.

I've searched the site and it fails to give one very important piece of information: it doesn't say what the connector type is. You need an H4. Given that, fitting the headlight is an easy job as the old one should just be held in with W-clips. There's no canbus to worry about and fitting that headlight also has the side-effect of reducing the electrical load which gives the hi/dip switch an easier life. The only 'electrical' job you may have to do is changing the connector for the parking/pilot light.

I'm a bit shocked that you say replacing the Euro headlight with a l/h dip beam is more than AU$200.

That one is an H4 connector, good to know there is nothing tricky in fitting it.

You are right, I wasn't doing very good searching.

I have found this which is only $55 but not in stock.

This is kind of in-stock but at $144 I might as well go LED.

Seems all the major chains have plenty of globes, but very few complete units in stock. I could go to a wrecker, but I am on a time limit to get this job done.

not a fan of the led units and in the uk they are starting to look at them (they become part of the mot , standard fitment etc) having said that i have the halogen bulb and a very bright led for the hi beam also , i think the alt on the k100 is about 450 watts so no need to worry about battery going flat , unlike the old lucas dynamos , try running a british bike with the headlights on in the day   forgot to say standard land rover units are cheap and fit
Classic Mini 7" Halogen Headlamp Light Conversion Kit SINGLE RHD INC. Bulbs | eBay

I'd disagree. Both Philips and Osram now produce EU/UK approved LED bulbs in existing fitments. The downside is that because they are designed and built properly, they have the cooling fan behind the bulb and not squashed into the base where it can't do much good. This means they don't fit the K100 rectangular light but they will fit nakeds with round lights. They're also b-l-o-o-d-y expensive; like £54 for two H4s expensive. So, a pair of H4s for the Enfield and the Cali, two H3s, two H7s and two H9s for various auxiliary lights and you ain't got much change from £250 (sht. I wish I hadn't added that up). I spent a couple of calm soothing days making waterproof extensions for the auxiliary lights to accomodate the fans (yes, I really did enjoy it!) and I'm pleased that the result was good enough to initially deceive you into thinking that they're OEM.

Mind you, the fans are high-pitched seriously noisy. First time I turned the Enfield on after converting it I thought the ABS wasn't switching off!!!

@Naut023 Interesting. That first one has a EU approved lens in it. The lo-beam pattern is a one-size fits all countries and it's near useless.

Dai wrote: not squashed into the base where it can't do much good.

The LED H4's that I use have the fan "squashed into the base" and they work just fine. Not noisy either.



BUT.... The base diameter has to be less than 31mm in order to fit in the K bike's locking ring that holds the H4 in place.



LED vs. factory H4: (RT headlights used for this pic but round headlight is pretty much the same low beam pattern)

That looks pretty good. What's the rated power on the COB LED? We're really restricted to approved LED headlights over here - a non-EU/UK approved bulb will get you an MOT failure simply because the beam pattern is incorrect. Some Chinese LEDs produce an okay pattern, so the MOT stations take a pragmatic approach and won't fail you for it. I'm using the Ultinon 9000 series: https://www.philips.co.uk/c-e/au/car-lights/headlights/ultinon-essential-led.html. The bumf doesn't say, but IIRC the COBS on the Ultinons are 22watts.

You can get Ultinons to fit round headlight nakeds. Philips do a smart-ass trick where the outer body is the same across the entire range and the inner body is also the same across the entire range, with the exception of the H4 inner body with its dual LEDs. There is a detachable and interchangeable ring set that comes with the bulb and defines the bulb type (H1, H3, etc.) and sets the LEDs to the correct focus position. 

To get an Ultinon into a naked headlight you remove the H4 ring, drop the K locking ring over the bulb and then replace the H4 ring. Somebody on here has done it - I'm pretty sure it was one of the Europeans. Unfortunately on an RS or RT the forks will bash the fan. I don't know how much further forward the K1100LT carries its fairing but based on comparing the LT mounting frame with an RT spider, it probably will take an Ultinon.

Dai wrote:What's the rated power on the COB LED?

The box says 60/55 but it's from China so they just put that on there because they know people are replacing 60/55 halogen bulbs so will look for something that says 60/55 on it. I knew that was wrong so I measured it with a good multimeter and it measures about 27W for either beam.

Many US states have no vehicle inspections and I live in a state that has nothing whatsoever in that regard. The State Patrol here only inspects vehicles if you want to change the title status from Salvage to Rebuilt or if you build a custom vehicle from scratch and need a new title.

Dai wrote:I don't know how much further forward the K1100LT carries its fairing but based on comparing the LT mounting frame with an RT spider, it probably will take an Ultinon.

I think I recall Inge posting that the K1100 faring is about 2" farther forward than the older RT/LT fairings.

There still isn't much room behind the headlight though so it still takes lots of swearing to swap the H4 bulb on a K1100LT.

i think its being picked up on the light spectrum range ? not the beam ,  the quality of the light etc , in bham they changed the street lighting to led some years ago , they are now placing sheilds around them to block out the light they emit   i wonder why the dumb ass council is broke

duck wrote:

Dai wrote:What's the rated power on the COB LED?

The box says 60/55 but it's from China so they just put that on there because they know people are replacing 60/55 halogen bulbs so will look for something that says 60/55 on it. I knew that was wrong so I measured it with a good multimeter and it measures about 27W for either beam.

Many US states have no vehicle inspections and I live in a state that has nothing whatsoever in that regard. The State Patrol here only inspects vehicles if you want to change the title status from Salvage to Rebuilt or if you build a custom vehicle from scratch and need a new title.

60/55 watts is the power consumption of a H4 halogen bulb. Light output is measured in Lumen. Even my new R1250RS and the wifes new S1000XR, with standard LED lighting, will not consume more than 20 watts, but emit far more lumen than a halogen bulb.