This comes up every now and again, usually with an admonishment somewhere in the thread to not use plastic ones because the sideways pressure will eventually snap them. Curiosity got the better of me and I decided that I could afford to lose a tenner (£10) on a Curiosity Test. It didn't last long.

- the cheap ChingChing ones are ripoffs of the original Goodrich QD fittings
- they feel as if they are connecting well - some push needed to fit them together and they pop apart pretty smartly on the release button
- I mounted them both on new fuel lines on LFB
- They didn't get a chance to break. The moment that the slightest sideways pressure went onto the fittings they started leaking.

Conclusion: another ChingChing failure, not that I hadn't really expected it. Within a couple of hours I'd shelled out just short of £100 on a pair of genuine metal Goodrich ones.

Interesting. I don't want to hijack your thread, Dai, but below is a post of mine from the BMW MOA website that I cut and pasted here. These are the metal ones I got from Beemer Boneyard.

As an addendum to my original post, I also believe that a side load, even on the metal ones, is not desirable because I believe it could possibly prevent the o-ring from sealing properly. The air plenum is directly behind the supply line connector but it is not pushing the coupler outwards. The correct length of the fuel lines is also critical so that the coupler connects securely. I mention that in my post.

The supply line coupler started to seep as soon as I repeatedly tapped the starter button, pressurizing the fuel system, and it continued to seep with the engine running. I shut it off and investigated. I have no desire to be Nicolas Cage in Ghost Rider!

The return line never had an issue. It does, however, run on the outer side of the air plenum and doesn't rest up against the one rad hose or run behind the radiator for its full length. Maybe this re-routing will help keep the fuel cooler?

This is what I ended up with. The return line required a 90 degree connector and re-routing. It is tie-wrapped to #2 throttle body so that it doesn't foul the throttle linkage, which it will if you don't somehow secure it.

My only concern after I first installed these was the supply line coupler leaking. The only thing I could figure out was that the length of the fuel line was critical so that the coupler securely connects. I believe I increased the lower section, which attaches to the fuel rail, by about 2mm. It hasn't leaked since but has left me with an uneasy feeling. Clearly, a fuel leak with a hot engine could lead to disaster, especially if I am riding.

I also installed a rubber grommet in the hole in the lower section of the fuel tank and will tie-wrap the return line to it, just so it stays put.

What about these on Ebay? £29 each

JGT wrote:What about these on Ebay? £29 each

Single valve cut off, meaning that you'll still get sprayed with fuel when disconnecting. With a pressurised system like ours you need a dual valve cut off, which is why the Goodrich were so expensive (plus paying for the name of course!).

RS Rider wrote:As an addendum to my original post, I also believe that a side load, even on the metal ones, is not desirable because I believe it could possibly prevent the o-ring from sealing properly. The air plenum is directly behind the supply line connector but it is not pushing the coupler outwards. The correct length of the fuel lines is also critical so that the coupler connects securely. I mention that in my post.

I was careful to ensure that the hoses ran as they wanted to lie. The side pressure was barely there - a gentle poke with a finger made it instantly worse. Poor manufacture in that case, without a doubt.

I have to admit that I am not 100% comfortable with the supply line to the fuel rail, only because of my initial issue, which has not reoccurred. But not struggling with the fuel lines to remove them and not having to drain the tank down is a bonus, even though that is not a regular event. A fellow on BMW MOA said he has had metal disconnects for about 40K miles with zero issues. Maybe I should stop worrying so much.

If there's gas in the tank, do the fuel rail hose last and then you can just lean the tank against a wall with the front of the tank pointing up in order to keep gas from draining. That's what I do.

Find something to use as a plug and just plug the hose after removing the line from the rail. A suitable sized bolt will do the job.
Regards Martin.

In my case I want to remove the tank while the fuel system is still pressurised. The engine won't fire properly, so I can't use the old trick of disconnect the fuel pump and use the rest of the fuel and I was getting really p*ss*d off with seeing puddles of very expensive fuel on the garage floor. Twice in the last couple of weeks the only thing that has saved me from fuel in the eye is a pair of glasses. The Goodrich QDs will be here tomorrow.

I Agree with Dai 
Dont use the BMW plastic ones.

I got a very wet leg when one let go replaced with the metal ones from Motorworks and all good

How often do you guys remove the fuel tank?  Seriously, on Ilsa, my touring bike, I think the tank has totally been off maybe three times in 9 years and 46,000 miles.  The last time was probably 7 years ago, I can't really remember.  It was when I added the fuel cooler.

I put an extra length of fuel line on the tank connections so I can pull the tank back far enough to easily get to the ground connection and other connectors under the tank.  Now there is nothing under the tank that I can't get to without removing the tank.  It is possible to add about 6 inches to the lines and coil them up when the tank is in place.

A long time ago I had a bike burn up under me.  The leakage you are seeing is why I am afraid of those quick disconnects.

Overkill, let it depressurize and plug the line. I haven't had to remove my tank in the last 5 years. You can do a lot of miles on the money saved.
Regards Martin.

I can't wait ten-fifteen minutes between tank on and tank off. I'm still trying to diagnose why the damned ignition won't switch over between starter and HES at 710rpm, hence the need for the QDs so I can get in the relay box.

I have enough slack in the fuel lines so that I can just remove the clips and slde the tank back and lift up the rear. I then use a block of wood to chock it up.
Regards Martin.

MartinW wrote:I have enough slack in the fuel lines so that I can just remove the clips and slde the tank back and lift up the rear. I then use a block of wood to chock it up.
Regards Martin.

That's how I do it.  I have a 6" chunk of a 2 x 4 that I stick under the tank.  Longer fuel lines give me a lot of room to move the tank around without having to disconnect them. 

I have no problem pulling the relays and messing about in my relay box.