The high beam on my 1986 K100RT works when I use the 'pass' push switch (top position), but not when I use the normal high beam switch (bottom position). I've pulled the left switch panel off the handlebar and inspected the switch connections and contacts as well as I can without further disassembly, but the cause is not obvious. Wires are all solidly connected and what I can see of the contacts look OK.

Has anyone else struck this problem? Is my interpretation of the switch positions and functions correct?

Since it isn't the bulb and doesn't appear to be the switch, I'm wondering if perhaps the normal high beam position lights the filament via a different relay from that used by 'pass' position?

On my 1990 K100 RS the left hand switch is operated as follows. Pushing the top of the switch fully in gives high beam, the middle position gives dipped and pushing the bottom of the switch fully in from the dipped position gives a spring loaded "light the high beam" and pop back out back to dipped when I release it.
Regards,
K-BIKE

Yes, thinking about it some more, I got the positions backwards.

It is my top position that does nothing, whereas the bottom spring loaded one lights the high beam and pops back out to dipped when I release it.

Take a look at the circuit diagram for the light switch in the download section you will see that there is no relay in the circuit (unless one has been installed (such as the Eastern Beaver kit or a home brewed one), not counting the load shed relay of course. All current for the headlight is carried by the cable and switches on the bars. It sounds like you either have a break in a wire or the switch is faulty.
Regards,
K-BIKE

Have a look at this

Hi Stout
my 85 RT was an ex police bike and I had all sorts of trouble with the wiring of this switch. I followed those great instructions as pointed out by Crazy Frog above and still could not fathom it.
It turned out that the main yellow power wire had been cut some distance from the switchgear and joined straight to the headlight wire, bypassing the high beamery in the switch. I had to cut the plastic wrapping back about 10 inches in old money to find the yellow power lead. They must have had a separate flasher system wired in under the tank, the wiring there was a mess.
Anyhoo, I was able to solder a new bit into the power wire and back to the switch, and it worked. Takes a while to figure out where to join everything.
Then of course I realised that my rocker switch was stuffed but thats another story.
Good Luck mate. RT

Interesting, thanks. Since mine is an ex-police bike too and the switch looks fine, that may be something to consider if some probing of the switch with a multi meter doesn't yield helpful results. The fact that the switch does light the high beam on the spring loaded setting seems to indicate I'm getting power to the switch though.

When poking around under the fairings a week or so ago I found the old wiring (one wire per side) for whatever went on the crash bars. One seems to get 12v when the driving light switch on the dash is used, but the other doesn't? I'll have to do some more testing to see if the other responds to the 'non-functioning' high beam switch position.

Since you're just up the road, we should organise a mini-rally one weekend! There's pretty good odds my pannier key would allow you to get the panniers off your '86.

I'm up for that mate, just trying to get confidence that I have done everything right.
Doing a run to the Blue Mountains next week then I should be sweet.
I was hoping to get some hot days riding to check out water cooling etc but all I'm getting is wet riding experience.
You can have a look at my email and drop a line if you wish, would be nice to
s another K, only have coastal sports bikes going through here, and the odd
potato exhaust.
RT

Stout wrote:There's pretty good odds my pannier key would allow you to get the panniers off your '86.

I have 4 pannier keys for different panniers, none of which are my current ones, yet they all fit. additionally 2 of them fit the top box.

Of my 4 ignition keys, and 2 bikes, 3 fit the petrol cap on both. 2 fit my spare petrol cap but only one fits each ignition and seat lock (actually being the correct key in each case) 2 of these also fit the panniers but only one fits the top box - it may actually be the right key for it, I forget in the mists of time. Then there's the other top box which is keyed to the ignition and only that key works but you can still open the lid when locked!!

So I guess I concur that there's pretty good odds.