2 Re: cleaning inside engine Wed Jan 19, 2011 7:39 pm
Crazy Frog
admin
I had the same problem and solved it this way:
I warmed up the bike to have the water mixing with the oil then drained it. I filled up with new cheap oil, ran the bike for 1/2 hour and drained it again. After refilling with good quality oil and replacing the filter, I couldn't see anymore traces of water.
If you live in an area with cold and damp climate, it's not uncommon (when the engine is cold) to see a thin creamy layer floating on the top of the oil. You cannot avoid it as this is due to condensation of the humidity in the ambient air.
I warmed up the bike to have the water mixing with the oil then drained it. I filled up with new cheap oil, ran the bike for 1/2 hour and drained it again. After refilling with good quality oil and replacing the filter, I couldn't see anymore traces of water.
If you live in an area with cold and damp climate, it's not uncommon (when the engine is cold) to see a thin creamy layer floating on the top of the oil. You cannot avoid it as this is due to condensation of the humidity in the ambient air.
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1986 k75, 1985 K100rt, |
3 Re: cleaning inside engine Wed Jan 19, 2011 7:53 pm
jwh01
active member
Thanks for the info, bike is not running due to a Sprag clutch problem not engaging. so its cleaning a cold stripped engine.
Thanks john.
Thanks john.
4 Re: cleaning inside engine Wed Jan 19, 2011 11:26 pm
Stout
active member
Any old degreaser / mineral solvent should do the job nicely.
Anything from an aerosol can of WD40 to a tub of kerosene and an old paintbrush.
I recently changed the engine oil and filter and have been watching with satisfaction as the deposits that had accumulated on the inside of the sightglass are slowly disappearing (No, I don't try to watch while riding...). It is my hope that any similar deposits in the rest of the engine are also being cleaned. I don't currently have any sprag clutch problems and would like to keep it that way.
Anything from an aerosol can of WD40 to a tub of kerosene and an old paintbrush.
I recently changed the engine oil and filter and have been watching with satisfaction as the deposits that had accumulated on the inside of the sightglass are slowly disappearing (No, I don't try to watch while riding...). It is my hope that any similar deposits in the rest of the engine are also being cleaned. I don't currently have any sprag clutch problems and would like to keep it that way.
Last edited by Stout on Wed Jan 19, 2011 11:30 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Added content)
5 cleaning inside engine Thu Jan 20, 2011 6:37 am
Dennis
Platinum member
Hi Stout, I see you are in Oz, so am I (Tassie), so I can recommend the cheap degreaser sold at Supercheap in the aerosol cans. About $2 a can and works very well, probably pure hydrocarbon and real bad for the environment, but very effective.
Assuming there is nothing more wrong with the sprag than gumming, I recommend you use a good high detergent diesel oil like Caltex Delo Multigrade 15W40 or Shell Rimula Diesel.
After flushing as suggested, check everything thoroughly then get some long runs on the engine so the oil temp gets up and stable, that helps drive off any remaining internal moisture.
Change the oil and filter every 5,000 Km's and she'll be sweet. Oh, and the down side of owning a K bike - short runs are a no-no.
Regards, Dennis
Assuming there is nothing more wrong with the sprag than gumming, I recommend you use a good high detergent diesel oil like Caltex Delo Multigrade 15W40 or Shell Rimula Diesel.
After flushing as suggested, check everything thoroughly then get some long runs on the engine so the oil temp gets up and stable, that helps drive off any remaining internal moisture.
Change the oil and filter every 5,000 Km's and she'll be sweet. Oh, and the down side of owning a K bike - short runs are a no-no.
Regards, Dennis
6 Re: cleaning inside engine Thu Jan 20, 2011 7:56 am
Stout
active member
Hi Dennis,
Couldn't agree more. If only John and his trike were in Oz as well...not sure he'll be able to get the Supercheap Auto degreaser in Durham or I'd have recommended it ;-)
We really have to get a downunder K100 rally happening, there's a bunch of us on here and as you point out, these bikes are made for long distances.
Stout
Couldn't agree more. If only John and his trike were in Oz as well...not sure he'll be able to get the Supercheap Auto degreaser in Durham or I'd have recommended it ;-)
We really have to get a downunder K100 rally happening, there's a bunch of us on here and as you point out, these bikes are made for long distances.
Stout
7 Re: cleaning inside engine Fri Jan 21, 2011 1:35 am
K-BIKE
Life time member
Hi Guys,
Sorry to rain on the parade but the degreasers are not good at removing water, dependant upon how far you have it stripped the best dewatering material is acetone since that sucks up all water and flushes it away and then evaporates clean afterwards. Another option which is not so good at drying (because it is less volatile) and does not really go for the oil as well as Acetone is methylated spirit.
Regards,
K-BIKE
Sorry to rain on the parade but the degreasers are not good at removing water, dependant upon how far you have it stripped the best dewatering material is acetone since that sucks up all water and flushes it away and then evaporates clean afterwards. Another option which is not so good at drying (because it is less volatile) and does not really go for the oil as well as Acetone is methylated spirit.
Regards,
K-BIKE
8 Re: cleaning inside engine Fri Jan 21, 2011 10:30 am
jwh01
active member
thanks all,
I am looking at the gears right now. I think I will try the Acetone as this product keeps popping up, give them a as new clean lol.
Then once cleaned will oil with a diesel oil. if I am on wrong track shout out .
Thanks all John
I am looking at the gears right now. I think I will try the Acetone as this product keeps popping up, give them a as new clean lol.
Then once cleaned will oil with a diesel oil. if I am on wrong track shout out .
Thanks all John
9 cleaning inside engine Sat Jan 22, 2011 6:22 am
Dennis
Platinum member
Ok, here's the drill - if the starter sprag assembly is troublesome, then you need to concentrate on thoroughly cleaning all residue from the internals of it. There should be a circle of intricately shaped "palls" or "dogs" and these need to be free to pivot as they engage with the hub to transmit torque when the starter is operated, failure for this to happen causes the slipping, hence no engine turn-over. I suggest a thorough degreasing, then blow carefully with compressed air. If residue is (still) visible, repeat the process. Be very careflu if using a paint brush that no bristles get trapped in the assembly as even this can affect the function of the sprag unit.
Yes, lightly oil the unit as soon as cleaning is finished, then put it in a clean plastic bag till ready for re-assembly. Don't wrap it in a cloth as lint can get into it, with the same consequences. As for the gears in the drive train, no big deal, just degrease and scrub with a brush, blow dry then oil.
As a German drawing in my workplace once stated " the utmost cleanliness is an unprecedented prerequisite", try saying that after a dozen cold Boags draft stubbies !
Hope this helps, Dennis.
Yes, lightly oil the unit as soon as cleaning is finished, then put it in a clean plastic bag till ready for re-assembly. Don't wrap it in a cloth as lint can get into it, with the same consequences. As for the gears in the drive train, no big deal, just degrease and scrub with a brush, blow dry then oil.
As a German drawing in my workplace once stated " the utmost cleanliness is an unprecedented prerequisite", try saying that after a dozen cold Boags draft stubbies !
Hope this helps, Dennis.
10 Re: cleaning inside engine Sat Jan 22, 2011 5:00 pm
jwh01
active member
Thanks for the info Dennis,
I do intend to take it apart and do that very thing. I will take photos as i go though so that others can see what its all about.
Thanks John
I do intend to take it apart and do that very thing. I will take photos as i go though so that others can see what its all about.
Thanks John
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