Several weeks back a long-time moto mate pointed out to me a Craigslist ad for a K1200R. I've had two of these, a K1200S, and my current K1300GT. Not a traditional Brick, for certain, but the venerable K40 series have, in my eyes and experience, earnt their rightful place as K models. I had to have a look.

Three weeks ago I hopped onto my S1000XR and headed east about 530kms/330 miles to near the Idaho border with Washington state. Some of you will know this beautiful area as the Palouse, Washington's wheat growing region. Whitman county makes claim to be America's most productive wheat region. Apples & other tree fruit are equally as bountiful just a coupla counties west near the Columbia & Snake rivers.
[size=92][/size]
Agreeing to meet, the owner, a widow whose husband had passed of a heart attack during covid, showed the bike to me in a large, agricultural building housing combine harvesters and tractors. It sat partially covered, spread amongst tools and coated in wheat chaff and barnyard dust.

I rolled it out into the bright, Palouse sunlight.
It is definitely a ten-footer. Three turn indicators are hanging, having been glued on at some stage. The bare plastic has faded to grey. A roundel has baked itself off. The front brake lever tip has been ground off in a tipover somewhere back in time. The brake fluid is the colour of amber Canadian maple syrup. The LCD instrument panel is weak and a very rapidly flashing brake warning appears. But the seat, exhaust can and coloured panels are in good nick for a 17 year old motorbike. 

The battery is new and the engine oil and coolant clean and full. It started and clattered for a few secs - as they do, the simple, oil pressure timing chain tensioner not up to the task. I have a tried and true remedy. No smoke emanated from the pipe, and it settled into a typical K40, thrumbling idle, much like an implement used for harvesting, but with a slightly less benign intention. I scanned for codes with her permission. Yep, bad Servo pump, front section. Not worth her US$3800 asking price. 

She had written a firm "no test rides, bring cash" warning in her ad. I fluttered my eyelashes. She suggested I knew what I was doing, not like the others who had come to view the bike. She fluttered hers back at me. I threw a leg over and rode off to find the Idaho border on some of the finest, freshly paved two lane, over rolling fields of gold, I've seen in a fair while. The rear brakes worked but the fronts were frightening. The tires are from 2014 and the bike steered like a tank. I rolled back into the dusty yard and told her the cost of the failed components are quite expensive and that I didn't wish to "lowball" an offer to her, but I'd think about it. We parted.

Late last week she texted asking "if I was still interested, there was one more coming to look at it, none seemed to know what they were looking at, she's moving away soon, everything must go, the bike needs a home with someone who can take care of it, etc." Of course, all of this was simply a version of her eye fluttering overcoming mine. She's a great lady, earnest and genuine. She accepted my offer, as lowball as they get, and I drove out in the Ranger yesterday @ 1:30 in the AM darkness, six hours away.

Instead of stopping to rest after 8 hours of driving and loading up a bike, I turned right round and headed home over the Cascade mountains to the west side. Anyone who's gone west over Snoqualmie Pass on I-90 on a Sunday arvo knows, don't. Traffic was banked up for miles due to pranged caravans and gawkers, poor drivers and prolonged roadworks. I made it home by 3:00PM anyway. 13-1/2 hours later a weary K12R is nestled in amongst the other 7 bikes.

Do I need another, nuh, not really, but it's better and cheaper than drugs for the high and the health. Time to update the bike list.

TWB, congrats, well done.
There is no such a thing as having too many bikes. Period.

It is the lack of space that bothers me

bad boy wrote:It is the lack of space that bothers me

Don't I know it!

Some people just blink an eye, and a bike follows them home

I needed another fix.
 

I have the same problem , i often ask myself do i need 6 bikes , and the answer is alway nah , but i can so i will , .Tried to sell one a while back , had lots of interest and potential buyer coming to look , he was going to travel 300km,s with a trailer so he must have been serious , until i took the bike for what i thought would be one last ride . Came home and immediately took the advert offline ,  couldnt bear to part with it .

Two Wheels Better wrote:

I know how he feels I have sold 3 recently 2 X K75 RTs and my much loved Z1300 Kawasaki.

Two Wheels Better wrote:

I do love this one!

crikey !!!

After a coupla weeks of fluid changes, fiddling, catalogue poring over, searching and chasing spares, multiple turn indicator swaps, tire/wheel/brake disc changes, general tidying, and riding to and from work daily, the old 2006 model year K (actually built 4/2005) is really beginning to shine - not literally, as I rode in the first real rain of the summer, yesterdee. 

The brake fluid was chunky and crystallised in both the front and the rear master cylinders, but the front part of the dreaded, failure-prone Servo ABS pump is still giving a code. Tho' the front brakes are now at about 80% of normal function, the rear works at 100%. I placed a bit of leccie tape over the flashing dash warning LED until I can source a replacement pump or swap to non-ABS. I'd rather keep the anti-lock brakes as this is gunna be my 'winter beater' for commuting and the roads can grow slick and mossy during the 'Pacific North Wet' wintertime...

I've swapped a dual air cleaner K1200S airbox assembly (without snorkels) into it while the panels were off. The intake roar is seductive when giving it some cane out on the road. Seat of the pants dyno tells me it's likely more noise than speed gained, but is surely is a sweet sound, slightly snarly and more eager. I chucked the black 'sport' wheels from my K13GT onto it because the front discs are in better nick and the Conti Road Attack 2 GT tyres on those wheels are closer to new. The original Michie PR4 GT tyres are from 2014, squared off and cracking from exposure to excess sunlight. The C/F Remus exhaust, with homemade 'quiet core', that was on the 13GT has found a new home on the R.

I found a set of tubular mounts for the OEM expando pannier set that came with the bike, panniers rough but completely usable and with functioning lock and key. The roll-up waterproof liners for the panniers had to come from BMW and are pleasantly cheap enough. The normally blue mineral oil for the clutch hydraulics had obviously never been changed since there was no bleed nipple fitted to the clutch slave cylinder and the (low) fluid resembled something oozing from the La Brea tar pits. Some inexpensive engine/frame sliders replaced the flat and somewhat ineffective plastic OEM sliders. I got 'em for less than $30 online. They fit as intended, with the correct length aluminium spacer tubes, and are cheap to replace if damaged in a tipover.

I also pulled off the clutch cover, right side of the engine, to inspect the plates and check out whether it still had the old-style, short clutch pushrod and very restrictive aluminium plug in the main oil passage. Yep, confirmed, so I centre drilled the plug, threaded it with a thread tap, and carefully slide hammered it out. When attempting to insert the new, longer clutch pushrod, which has two grooves for better oiling of the wet clutch, I could see that just inside the shaft, which feeds fresh oil directly from the oil pump, there was a machined step about 15mm in, eliminating any chance of fitting the new, longer style pushrod because they are case hardened and difficult to chuck up into a lathe. 

What to do? My machinist mate Dan took the now battered oil restrictor plug, copied its size and gave it a 5mm centre hole for excellent clutch action, while still using the old, short style clutch pushrod. He even fabbed up a stepped insert tool for ease of hammering in the drilled centre oil plug. It is a very simple, and wonderful mod for the very early K40 engines. I have inserted the new style longer clutch pushrod into all of the bikes I've done clutches on (7 or 8 by now) and this is the first time I've seen the machined step in the oil pump shaft. It was obviously eliminated in later production engines. The clutch action is now light and progressive with zero freeplay at the hand lever, as intended. The foot brake lever end was curled up and difficult to use properly, so I sourced a secondhand lever on eBay (once, again) for $26 dollars. It came and was installed within ten minutes of arriving home from work one day last week. 

Another quick mod is to remove the dual plastic bushings and metal sleeve in the gear change lever centre hole and replace the lot with four tiny, caged roller bearings, for zero wiggle at the shift lever and now very positive gear changes. Replacing the torn rubber boots of the shift adjustment rod Heim joint ends keeps dirt and water at bay, as well. The old joints had worn out a bit - I found most of this stuff on eBay (and my own garage collection of spares, long held onto) at quite reasonable prices. This is a budget build that I still have less than US$1800 into.

At the end of the day this is a terrifically fun bike to ride, nimble and very fast (rated @ 160 crank HP/117.5 kW & 93 ft/lbs/127Nm of torque) and brings back heaps of memories from the earlier two I had which I'd regretted selling off - at least they went to friends who care well for them to this day. With no traction control, a lumpetty lump idle, no ride modes, flat 'bars, high and slightly rear set 'pegs, and minimal wind protection, the R is a real beast, with gobs of urge in overtaking situations, smooth power delivery down low, which really takes off from 8,000 rpm to its 11,000 rpm redline. With a fully fueled, wet (kerb, or curb, for you Yanks) weight of 522 lbs/237 kgs., it is similar in spec to an early K-RS Brick, but with, shall we say, more urgent urge when requested at the loud handle.

Certainly not a Brick, and whether your feelings lie with the "it was beaten with an ugly stick" crowd, or the "fast over form" mob, it's a much-valued Beemer anyway. Here's to your riding choices, whatever they may be. Cheers!

Could not agree with you more, I have one of the last k1300R's and the torque is addictive, as is the acceleration it is seriously quick. I agree with the 8,000 rpm, as much as I try it won't make my arms longer so I don't need reading glasses!

One small vanity offering for myself is that the Mightier K13R had slightly better-looking panels here and there. Its side profile is smoother, more refined. I discovered that the 13R's one-piece radiator side cowls are relatively inexpensive, or used to be, so I'd fitted them to the last two K12R I owned. They sweep back toward the engine and slightly cover the busy exhaust headers, as shown here, looking more like a 'belly pan' than the 12R's profile.

So, I've ordered a set from Germany. They (K13R) weren't ever sold by BMWNA in the US market and a lot of the pieces have to be brought in specially. They should be here by the 9th of September, according to BMW's DCSNet 'puter. They're basic enough that just two screws and a circlip hold them each on.

Comparo profile.

There's a trick device that sends the back end skyward and 'loads' the front end for quicker steering. Back 12 or 15 years ago these bikes were used for demonstration racing in BMW's Power Cup series, after the Boxer Cup series ended. Trouble is, at near 500 lbs in racing trim, they're not exactly in svelte racing trim. 

The pair of black 'triangles' at the base of the shock where the dogbone attaches is 25mm more splayed out than the stock version. SchwabenMax in Germany sell them in 25mm to 31mm to 37mm rise heights. The 'taller' versions make the main stand about useless as the rear tire, if 190/55ZR17, touches the ground. Since I don't throw much moto-related stuff away I discovered these in the K40 series spares box on a shelf in my garage from the last K12R I owned and sold in 2019.

These are the stock triangles. A 16mm box end spanner and an T50 Torx head will get them in and out in ten minutes' time.

How do they go? I sit flatfooted on the bike in stock trim, with bended knee. These still allow for a flatfoot stance, stock seat height, but you can feel yer bum raised higher, and the bike steers into turns more quickly. It's definitely a weight-hiding device given the Duolever front end.

"You don't need a hibachi to cook Japanese'.

The next easy mod up is an aluminium K13 lower control arm that weighs nearer 3 lbs when the K12 version is closer to 5.4 lbs. Unsprung weight be gone!

Another post from the darK side.

On yer left, the 2.4kg (5.35 lb) cast lower control arm from a K1200R or S, similar to K1200GT. On yer right, the same, but aluminium, weighing 1.6kg (3.5 lb) from a K1300R or S. Again, similar to a K1300GT.

If reducing unsprung weight here and there is desired, use of the latter helps in attaining that goal. It takes an hour, and you need to obtain a K13 front lower shockie screw as well. The steering dimensions are the same so there's no other magic handling gain, but there is weight loss. It all adds up.
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For generally carrying stuff, commuting to work, or if out on a tear tour, these waterproof-linered, expando commando panniers are mighty convenient, and come off with a twist of the ignition key.

Two Wheels Better wrote: these waterproof-linered, expando commando panniers are mighty convenient, and come off with a twist of the ignition key.

So... you turn the ignition off and the panniers fall off, yes?

Dai wrote:

Two Wheels Better wrote: these waterproof-linered, expando commando panniers are mighty convenient, and come off with a twist of the ignition key.

So... you turn the ignition off and the panniers fall off, yes?

So that's why the bloody things are scratched from the previous owner! 


Note to self: use occie straps like we did in the olden days on Airhead panniers.

@TWB

I had to look up 'occie straps':

elastic luggage straps (commonly known as ‘octopus straps’ or ‘occy straps’)
'As the Minister responsible for consumer affairs and product safety, Mr Michael McCormack said ...:

“Occy straps are a staple of many family holidays, luggage, sheds and workshops around Australia. From tying down tarps on the back of a trailer to baggage on a family holiday, I know many Aussies use occy straps as part of a trip or everyday business.

But there are safety hazards, including injuries to someone’s face or head, as well as permanent blindness.
In 2015 there were more than 28 serious eye injuries caused by an occy strap whipping back into the user’s face while being hooked or unhooked from item.”


please do be careful when using those

My vanity panels have arrived.

No plastic was harmed in the attempted furthering of fragile egos.

bad boy wrote:@TWB

I had to look up 'occie straps':

elastic luggage straps (commonly known as ‘octopus straps’ or ‘occy straps’)
'As the Minister responsible for consumer affairs and product safety, Mr Michael McCormack said ...:

“Occy straps are a staple of many family holidays, luggage, sheds and workshops around Australia. From tying down tarps on the back of a trailer to baggage on a family holiday, I know many Aussies use occy straps as part of a trip or everyday business.

But there are safety hazards, including injuries to someone’s face or head, as well as permanent blindness.
In 2015 there were more than 28 serious eye injuries caused by an occy strap whipping back into the user’s face while being hooked or unhooked from item.”


please do be careful when using those

Originally (long time ago) multiple 'straps' coming from a central ring. Hence octopus.
I'm careful to avoid using them. Whatever they are supposed to be holding moves as the elastic stretches on a road bump. Enough moves and they are no longer held by the occy strap. Goodbye luggage. Webbing straps don't stretch.

Bill

Truth be told I only ever use RokStraps these daze on the motos. Occies (generic usage), or bungies, are best used as tension between the grommets of the heavyweight tarpaulin over the five cords of firewood stored in the back garden for the incoming weather.

Ultimately, the Servo ABS did not cooperate after a thorough bleed, re-bleed, and re-bleed. I manage to get the rear circuit to operate under impending lockup, but, alas, the front circuit was never more than about 60% effective at hauling down the beast, never mind that end's ABS actually functioning. The feeling was like grease had been applied to the pads and discs.

What to do? The instruments (speedo/odo), brake lights and dash warning lamps all run through the ABS module so disconnecting it and plumbing the hoses from master cylinder to calliper(s) isn't an option. A new Servo pump at my (dealer employee) cost is still nudging the US$2,000 mark, plus tax (9.9%) and the time to install. And all it'll ever be is a problematic and fault-prone ABS requiring extra maintenance. Since this bike appears thus far to be a relative keeper, I look further afield. Enter RH Electronics from Bavaria, who make the Second Life kit for both CanBus and analog BMW motorbikes with Servo ABS. They also offer a rebuild service of these pumps and the ABSII models.
RH Electronics

What kinda madness is that...?
These good folk make a magical device that physically takes up the space previously inhabited by the Servo ABS unit. It accepts the four brake lines, two front, two rear, with quick disconnects and tapered seals held in by circlips as per the stock unit. It has a proprietary circuit board configured to the specifications of your motorbike (verified by providing them with your moto's VIN) which you plug the main ABS module connector on your bike to. The mount points are the same as the OEM unit.

The original, faulty Servo unit sits on my bathroom scale, cleverly snuck into the garage without anyone noticing - a bit like drying a painted motorbike part in the kitchen oven when no one's home - revealing its volume of 10.4 lbs or 4.7 kilos. The replacement unit weighs 2.86 lbs or 1.3 kilos, a healthy 7-1/2 pound saving, enough to not have to worry about visiting twice and piling your plate at the all-you-care-to-eat Sunday buffet when out for a ride with mates. Fitted, connected, bled (as easy as) and the braking force is restored to 100% sans ABS function. You only need it when you need it.  


Here it is all snug and tight and buttoned up. The programming of dash warning lamps is as easy as holding/depressing the two brake levers for 30 seconds whilst switching on the ignition key, then releasing until you obtain the flashing sequence you desire. For me it was making them flash as though the ABS is functioning and the brake warning triangle extinguishes after a few seconds of forward motion. If you should experience a hydraulic brake failure (hose burst, low fluid, & etc.) the lamp will illuminate as required.

For a bit of fun and because it was cheaper than having the various grotty, faded and damaged silver panels re-sprayed, I fit carbon-fibre panels instead, which I got as a package deal from an Arizona-based shop that specialises in CF. All up, she's over 15 pounds lighter than with plastic painted panels fitted. Does it make a difference on a 250 kg (550 lb) wet weight moto? Nuh. Not much at all, but it looks kinda kewl. Not done yet, still awaiting the air intake panels. The variation is that K12R and K13R share main panels but not ancillaries, so I got K13R side panels for a bit of an upgrade, cleaner lines, on what, admittedly & subjectively, was not the most attractive motorbike in BMW's arsenal. But I like it.


The silver headlight assembly will be sprayed black when at least a sunny, 10c/50f degree day arrives, and rear footpegs will be replaced by some black K1300S peg sets (obtained already). A small C-F 'screen is available for warm summer daze and a tinted "sport" touring 'screen is in use when it's a bit on the cooler or wetter side. Four T25 Torx screws are all one has to deal with for a swap of the 'screens in mere moments. Some OEM style (but non-US) slimmer LED signals to replace the incandescent bulbs are arriving soon as well. I spotted a set of Sato rider rearsets online, contacted the distributor for a deal, and should see them in my eagre hands by mid-week.

A very satisfying project.

She is looking good! They sure are big bikes. Looked at one when I got the k100. Gave me nightmares thinking about riding it after just sitting on it. Had not had a motorcycle for 15-ish years. It was HUGE! Was bigger than the sellers Goldwing.

fishboy316 wrote:She is looking good! They sure are big bikes. Looked at one when I got the k100. Gave me nightmares thinking about riding it after just sitting on it. Had not had a motorcycle for 15-ish years. It was HUGE! Was bigger than the sellers Goldwing.

You are mistaking the K1200R for something else. It is not particularly big. Dimensions-wise, it aligns nicely with my two same weight K1100RS' models or the 80 lbs heavier K1200RS parked next to it in the garage, same seat height, reach to 'bars, width, length, & etc. Maybe you were looking at its stablemate the sport-touring K1200S or possibly the touring version, K1200GT, which have a bit more plastic and windscreen, both of which weigh nearly 150 lbs less than any modern Goldwing. Given your 15 or so years away, as you say, it might have been the lardy load of 'em all, the K1200LT brick which played tricks on your eyes and on your imagination. That big girl is right smack in 'Wing territory in terms of girth, and weight.

This HUGE thing has got me thinking. Basic research done using bmw wiki site and the Norwegian site with useful BMW specs, Bikez.com

Wet (or kerb) weights of various Beemers (& a random 'Wing) we know and sometimes love:

1987 K100RS 253 kgs or 558 lbs

1992 K1100RS 268 kgs or 591 lbs

1998 K1200LT 378 kgs or 834 lbs

2005 Honda Goldwing 404 kgs or 892 lbs

1988 K75S 235 kgs or 518 lbs

2006 K1200R 250 kgs or 550 lbs

2008 K1200GT 303 kg or 668 lbs

2004 R1150RT 291 kgs or 641 lbs

2021 Honda Goldwing 381 kgs or 838 lbs

The verdict is that there's not a lot of huge going on with the K40 series wedge, the K12R, in comparison.

Regardless of what the weight of these pigs is, it would be interesting to see where the center of gravity is on a lot of these bikes.  My experience with my K75RT convinced me that BMW designers don't give a **** how high the center of gravity is on their machines.  It's even more obvious when one looks at all the models that followed the early K bikes. 

Maybe the c/g isn't really that high, but visually, seeing all that bulk up around shoulder high sure is intimidating to an old fart like I am. 

Is it possible that the high up bulk of the late model BMW's is a ploy to scare off potential bike thieves who aren't 6'5" power lifters?

We have added Triumph to our list of bikes carried in the shop, along with BMW, Ducati, Zero & Energica. I push a lot of bikes around daily. One of my least favourites, besides the ultra-long, low slung R18 boxer, is any new R1250GSA. They are massive, tall & ungainly in the garage, but nimble underway. Then I pushed around then rode a Triumph 1200 GT Rally Pro Explorer. Egads! The GSA is heavy but carries its weight low, while the Trumpie is all upper body weight. It's very difficult to manouevre about. Pushing a Bonneville T120 feels like walking next to a bicycle in comparo.
As with cars, most bikes are becoming too heavy as 'features & benefits' are added over time.
I'll continue to enjoy my nimble K1200R, which essentially weighs the same as a K100RS, but propels itself along quite nicely with about 162 bhp, & handles with aplomb due to its Duolever front suspension & Paralever Evo rear.

How can anyone sell an "adventure" bike that can't easily be picked up by one person?

I know if I had one, it would be used in places where it was almost inevitable that I would be dropping it at least once or twice a day.  Riding in remote places solo with one of those pigs would be asking for trouble.  Experience has taught me that dropping begets dropping and can quickly exhaust a rider with a heavy bike.

I suppose that if I was in the Eastern forests where I've done most of my riding I could rig a block and tackle to a sturdy tree.  A very sturdy tree.

'Enter RH Electronics from Bavaria, who make the Second Life kit for both CanBus and analog BMW motorbikes with Servo ABS. They also offer a rebuild service of these pumps and the ABSII models.'

TWB, thanks for this post.
My Ecomobile*s original ABS II did not work right. I sent it to RH where it was rebuilt for some 1000€.
After reinstalling the rebuilt unit, I could not see any change for the better.
We decided to do without that FTE ABS II unit and discarded it completely.
(this second life kit wasn't yet available at that time).

So, all you guys out there trying to rebuild the FTE ABS II by yourself: It is a waste of time.
Having it done by highly qualified professionals is a total waste of money.
Buying another, used one will probably get you the same results you had before sooner or later.That's a question of 'when', not 'if'.

Go and get this 'second life kit' instead.
just my .05 $

*the Ecomobile is mechanically a BMW flying bricK with a few additional gimmicks

Lippenstift auf einem Schwein 

Oink!!!

80mph at 30F and freezing fog!!?

You are a much braver man than I.

I've been down at 30mph on a frozen puddle in the middle of a turn.  Wouldn't want to repair the damage from an 80mph slide.

Point-Seven-five wrote:80mph at 30F and freezing fog!!?

You are a much braver man than I.

I've been down at 30mph on a frozen puddle in the middle of a turn.  Wouldn't want to repair the damage from an 80mph slide.

But it's a dry ice.


Seriously, in WA state, when they use the phrase 'freezing fog' in weather reports, it feels like cold, denseness is hanging in the air, thickly, but differs from black ice so common elsewhere. The road surfaces were clear, as were overpasses, bridges, & etc, and I was only moving at the usual pace of traffic. It's nice to have fully functioning brakes.

Around here you have to be very careful whenever the temperature goes below 32F. 

One cold but sunny late November morning in the Allegheny mountains I was sailing along in my car when I went into the shadow of a large barn next to the road.  540 degrees later I was in a ditch where I couldn't even open the doors. 

To add insult to injury, just as I was struggling to climb out through the window in a business suit a school bus full of high school students came by and stopped to see if I was okay.  The howls of laughter from that bus still haunt me to this day.

[size=30][/size]
Sato rearsets are like multi-adjustable jewels. Each piece comes in its own clear pack, clearly marked, with diagrammes a surgeon might use. They were sold out of black, but do have too-blingy gold, so a little silver will do.

Hey TWB, nice to see your winter ride getting farkled and fettled.  Do you run different tires/tyres during this season of low temp riding?  For the second time in my riding life I have now ridden in January and February here in the Great White North and I see this becoming a more regular thing.

Woodie wrote:Hey TWB, nice to see your winter ride getting farkled and fettled.  Do you run different tires/tyres during this season of low temp riding?  For the second time in my riding life I have now ridden in January and February here in the Great White North and I see this becoming a more regular thing.

I've read & heard the more northern and eastern N.A. weather's been warming, with less snow in your region. The west coast region surely has seen some records broken, tho' it's spotty from place to place. It seems the Pacific North Wet's lived up to its reputation this winter so far, with all of the rain and perhaps more lowland snow, and so less daily commuting for me and others who prefer to single track to work and play. I expect we can all expect further variation from our 'norm' going forward. Our recording of temps/precip & etc is a pretty small window back in time...a coupla hundred years since the industrial revolution, until scientists look for clues about the past climate buried in sediment at the bottom of oceans and lakes, locked away in bleaching coral reefs, frozen in fast-receding glaciers, and preserved in the growth rings of trees. There the story of changing weather & temps is told over the longterm, beyond humans, a time before memory. That's a different picture of info. It don't look good. My So. African mate who has worked for NOAA for 30 years, and studies weather patterns/temps and currents of the oceans round the world, suggests humans are in an extinction phase. After a coupla proper ales he becomes less optimistic in his outlook.

I run whatever tires I have, sometimes they're given to me, sometimes I buy them as new on closeouts through the shop, often they're a take-off from an authorities bike that's had a flat. I try not to buy or use a tire older than five years, and only with a comfortable minimum of remaining tread. It depends on whether I reckon I can wear it out in a season, a summer. The K12R has Conti Road Attacks on it, currently. The next set will be some properly vulcanised (patched) Michie Road 5 GT, full of fast warm up silica, an excellent rain tire I've been saving for the K12R or the K13GT. The other two rego'd bikes have Metzeler Roadtec 01 rubber on them. That's Metz's great counterpunch to the Michelins. 

Why trust a repaired puncture when you only have two small contact patches? I've not yet had a repaired tire fail in the place of repair, since beginning to ride on the street in 1976. I have had another flat on them. That's when I swap them. Sometimes I really splash out and treat myself to fresh rubber. Maybe Road 6 GT next...the shop bought more than 100 of them (mixed) a coupla weeks back from a distributor so the discount is pretty good.

Starting the 28th of May this year I will be taking an early (from full-time work) retirement. I see the road ahead is full of twists and turns, some directions yet unknown, some chances to take. I have only one rellie well back east these days so will likely only visit a few more times in the future. But if ever you or other forum members are out thisaway, I have extra bikes and know a few good roads.

The only thing I need to do now to the K12R (LED turn indicators on the way) is re-cover the comfortable but very slippery seat. Now that I have bought a proper air stapler and skinned a few motorbike seats I feel confident enough to do this one too.

Woodie wrote:

Glad to hear that you are running regular rubber on your bikes in all seasons.  I was thinking that soft rubber might e preferred for running close to freezing.  

On Christmas day in 1982 I hopped on a bus to go visit my older brother in Saskatchewan.  I think the primary motivator, other than festive spirits, was the fact that there was no snow on the ground and it was raining.  This was my first green Christmas and completely rocked my world having always had an abundance of snow by November at least.  I decided to stay there not long after and by March of '83 had bought a Yamaha 650 Maxim.  Lots of cold weather riding but the roads were typically dry with very little snow.  A change in work a little over a year ago meant that I gave up a company truck and now my motorcycle is my main transport.  On the odd occasion when I need to get out to a job site and two wheels are not feasible, I borrow my wife's old CR-V (if I ask nicely).

Ah, the benefit of modern 'rubber' is that is has heaps of silica in it which has (one of) the job of allowing quick warm up for cold days or cold roads. This is why manufacturers are suggegsting keeping psi high at all times. Softer tires require more heat to warm up, not advisable in wintertime.

From my later high school thru uni days, I did not own a car, preferring to get round on my motorbike(s), a 1970 R60/5 and then a '77 R75/7, the latter of which I own to this day. This was all in New England, central then western Massachusetts in particular. I bought a '69 1500cc single port Beetle, solidly rusted out, as my first cage, in my twenties when I got married and had a kid. Over my adult lifetime I can count the cars I've owned on two hands (actual count 11), but would require an 'abacus' for the proper counting of motorpickles owned, restored, built, ridden and loved. I rolled in two feet of snow at times and wondered aloud what the hell I was doing! But. The good fortune of living in Australia and the desert South West & Pacific North Wet of the US has allowed me to be able to ride for 90% of the year and often not own a car for years on end.

Deviation from stock, dull, US incandescent bulbs to sleeker & brighter non-US LEDs, now banned by DOT here, & recalled by BMWNA. Even BMW's ISTA computer at work can no longer program their more rapid flash out. I utilise the German MotoScan app to sort out their flash rate.

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Some ex-Bandido mates ask if I'd like to ride along to a far eastern Washington mountain hangout with them last weekend. With some stealthiness we all rode away bright & early Friday morning on our Beemers. One on a first year waterboxer GS, the other on an R1150RS. They wish to ride comfortably, badassiness be damned! No colours were flown, either.

Once arrived, after an eight hour roll on as many smaller roads as we could find, with a suitable repaste at a hearty roadside diner, we greeted their mates, and the good-natured ribbing ensued. I reminded some of them quietly that Sonny Barger rode an R1150RT and then an R1200RT for touring until he passed recently. The sideways looks I got from some of them told me to shut my yap. He was a Hells Angel, afterall. 

When I came to the conclusion that the entire weekend would be whiskey & cigarettes, I made my escape for clear air. I was under no obligation to become inducted into their ancient rituals by the sniffing a sheep's shorn locks or accepting a lap dance from one of their tattoed & buxom "blades." By now most of them haven't aged well as evidenced by the bingo wings (excess underarm sag) flapping when twirling on the dance floor.

Some piccies of the roads ridden and a quick view of Mt St Helens which I headed towards on my way home. NF-25 is the worst I've seen it in 30 years of riding there! Cratered and under major repair. Avoid 'til next year.

Once an original & thriving hippie farm, now corporate owned.

Rainy Pass on the North Cascades Highway

On the way I turned round and re-rode that pass three times for the sheer thrill. There wasn't much traffic so I had it mainly to myself. It's continually amazing - and one of the reasons I ride - how yellow cautioned 30 mph curves can easily be taken at 75 mph +.
Take the short trip to the parking area then walk through the pines to a weathered, stony viewpoint above the curve, for a better view of where you've just ridden, 1,000' below.





Highway 20 between Mazama & Winthrop.

The Loup Loup area suffered a major fire the past coupla years. I camped just near the summit in a near-empty primitive site despite it being a Friday night. There were very many noises of the forest scurrying about outside of my tent in the dark. Morning showed only deer tracks, no Bigfoot tracks. Disappointment.

Fire scarred hills.

Lake Diablo, a reservoir providing water & hydro power to western Washington.

Bear Creek park, off NF-99 on the road to Mt St Helens. In the pines, from 34c (93f) degrees to under 20c (68f) degrees in a few hundred miles.

Spirit Lake, base of Mt St Helens.

A clear view of Mt St Helens' smoking caldera.


All in all of great solo ride over three days & two nights, on mostly empty roads, avoiding major highways. The K1200R never once hiccuped, returned good fuel mileage, didn't use a drop of oil, the tyres showing slim chicken strips, and no velocity awards were offered by the lately-increasing presence of local or state constabulary.

Sounds like life is good out there...and getting better! 

Am hoping that circumstances allow another trip out there next year.

Point-Seven-five wrote:Sounds like life is good out there...and getting better! 
Am hoping that circumstances allow another trip out there next year.

Spare room and lockable garage available when you do! 

Caveman, we gotta do a ride.

Point-Seven-five wrote:Caveman, we gotta do a ride.

We can all crash Duck's party boat just off the Puget Sound! He's a fun, fast, hour-and-a-bit's ride over some great roads, from where I currently live.

Oh, man!  Gotta start planning for next year.

Would enjoy a trip out to the pacific north west. Last trip never got above Oregon. We did stop at the Chief Joseph rally in John Day and I vowed to go back next year. The riders of Oregon is a great group of folks I really enjoyed the hospitality. The week before their rally next year is the national MOA just west of John Day. Never bin to a national not sure I would like that big a crowd.

Like most rallies I've bin to the K bikes are out numbered 10 to 1 by the R bikes. Just thinking maybe we can pull together a group to change the ratio.

I remember when Mt St Helen looked a bit different. Before she blew her stack. I would maybe like to ride out there.

Guys, thank you for giving me good ideas.

Some 40 yeras ago, my big dream was the route 101 on a pushbike, not a motorbike, starting in Vancouver, British Columbia and ending in Tijuana, Baja California, covering three North American countries.

Unfortunately, I've never had enough time and developed knee probs later which made things even worse:
No more pushbike riding.

So maybe on a motorbike once I've retired?