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1Back to top Go down   1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Empty 1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Wed Apr 14, 2021 11:41 am

K-dawg

K-dawg
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1994 1100 LT - Final Drive 20210413
1994 1100 LT - Final Drive 20210414
1994 1100 LT - Final Drive 20210415
Hey everyone!
I'm soliciting some advice here to a newby myself on doing wrench work on the Output drive shaft.
Currently I pulled off tire, final drive and Im taking a look, but to be honest I'm not completely sure how to assess if what I have looks good.
I've uploaded a few pictures.
What grease is appropriate for the swing arm pins an bearings?
I ordered some Molypaste for splines. 
looking at the final drive pinion bearing, to me it kinda feels sticky. Should I pull it out and clean and re-apply grease?
Also, I am thinking "while I am here" to continue down in the clutch but I'm a bit nervous.

I tried to show more pictures but I exceeded the count.

    

2Back to top Go down   1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Empty More pictures Wed Apr 14, 2021 11:45 am

K-dawg

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1994 1100 LT - Final Drive 20210420
1994 1100 LT - Final Drive 20210421

    

3Back to top Go down   1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Empty Re: 1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Wed Apr 14, 2021 1:12 pm

Point-Seven-five

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I would say your splines are okay. I like to see a nice wide flat at the top of the spline. When they wear, the top will get narrow and from the end they will begin to look pointy.

For the Paralever pivot bearings I have a tub of moly fortified wheel bearing grease. I soak the bearings in kerosene and scrub the old grease out with my wife's toothbrush. Then pack them with grease after I blow the kerosene out of them. A light smear of grease goes on the pin and in the outer race before I put them back together.

I would take the time to lube the clutch splines. You don't have to totally remove the transmission. If you put in a pair of 100mm long 8mm bolts you can slide the transmission back far enough to get at the splines. I use one of those metal handle part cleaning brushes with a 6" piece of 1/4" dowel in it to make it a little longer to get the lube in from outside the cases.

A very important point when you reassemble everything is to make sure that your drive shaft u-joints are properly phased. If not, you are risking drive shaft failure when one of them self-destructs from the stress.


__________________________________________________
Present: 1991 K100RS "Moby Brick Too"
 
Past:
1994 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
1988 K100RS SE "Special Ed"
1994 K75S "Cheetos"
1992 K100RS "Moby Brick" R.I.P.
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

4Back to top Go down   1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Empty Re: 1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Wed Apr 14, 2021 1:19 pm

Laitch

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K-dawg wrote:Currently I pulled off tire, final drive and Im taking a look, but to be honest I'm not completely sure how to assess if what I have looks good. . . . the final drive pinion bearing, to me it kinda feels sticky.
What you have looks good. The splines have squared top profiles. In the paralever drives, splines don't wear as fast as in the monolevers. The "sticky stuff" looks like lubricating paste.  Unless that's caused by a nest of excreting aphids in there, I'd wouldn't be pulling it out and cleaning it.


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1995 K75 90,000 miles
    

5Back to top Go down   1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Empty Re: 1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Wed Apr 14, 2021 2:10 pm

K-dawg

K-dawg
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Point-Seven-five wrote:
"I soak the bearings in kerosene and scrub the old grease out with my wife's toothbrush.  "

Laughing Laughing - I think my wife uses a perfect toothbrush for the job too!


"A very important point when you reassemble everything is to make sure that your drive shaft u-joints are properly phased.  If not, you are risking drive shaft failure when one of them self-destructs from the stress."

Is there a specific way to install these and know they are phased properly? meaning I haven't noticed any obvious visual indication that they go in a specific way.

    

6Back to top Go down   1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Empty Re: 1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Wed Apr 14, 2021 2:11 pm

K-dawg

K-dawg
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Laitch wrote:
K-dawg wrote:Currently I pulled off tire, final drive and Im taking a look, but to be honest I'm not completely sure how to assess if what I have looks good. . . . the final drive pinion bearing, to me it kinda feels sticky.
What you have looks good. The splines have squared top profiles. In the paralever drives, splines don't wear as fast as in the monolevers. The "sticky stuff" looks like lubricating paste.  Unless that's caused by a nest of excreting aphids in there, I'd wouldn't be pulling it out and cleaning it.
Thanks Laitch!

    

7Back to top Go down   1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Empty Re: 1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Wed Apr 14, 2021 2:17 pm

K-dawg

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Ok, phasing, I think I get it now.  I will take a look tonight and get started on finishing it up. Glad I got some feedback fisrt, looks like it could have been costly mistake!
I looked this up sorta explains it.
https://managedmobile.com/driveshaft-phasing-importance/

    

8Back to top Go down   1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Empty Re: 1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Wed Apr 14, 2021 2:21 pm

Laitch

Laitch
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1995 K75 90,000 miles
    

9Back to top Go down   1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Empty Re: 1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Wed Apr 14, 2021 3:18 pm

K-dawg

K-dawg
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Laitch wrote:Here are a couple links for you. One for driveshaft phasing and one for pivot bearing lubrication.

This is great! thank you!

    

10Back to top Go down   1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Empty umm, yeaah Fri Apr 16, 2021 8:34 am

K-dawg

K-dawg
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Tried to put back the final drive to the coupling spline drive shaft. With the drive shaft already in it was VERY difficult to see upstream to the other coupling to ensure its in its correct phase position.

1994 1100 LT - Final Drive 20210422
1994 1100 LT - Final Drive 20210423

I was basically on my belly with a light and to see.
with limited ideas, I used a long retractable magnet and "felt" around. 
My logic was if I can "feel" no "step" then I was at the 12 o'clock coupling and so I put the final drive 12 oclock and assembled.

Also, I ordered Final Drive Spline Grease from EME. it came in a white small tube.
I was a bit surprised that it wasnt as "goopy" as I thought it might be.

1994 1100 LT - Final Drive 20210424

    

11Back to top Go down   1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Empty Re: 1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Fri Apr 16, 2021 9:03 am

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
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Put the shaft on your workbench and phase it properly. At he point where the two halves of the shaft come together make two paint marks. When you install the shaft align the marks and your shaft is phased.


__________________________________________________
Present: 1991 K100RS "Moby Brick Too"
 
Past:
1994 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
1988 K100RS SE "Special Ed"
1994 K75S "Cheetos"
1992 K100RS "Moby Brick" R.I.P.
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

12Back to top Go down   1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Empty Re: 1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Fri Apr 16, 2021 9:36 am

K-dawg

K-dawg
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Point-Seven-five wrote:Put the shaft on your workbench and phase it properly.  At he point where the two halves of the shaft come together make two paint marks.  When you install the shaft align the marks and your shaft is phased.

Ok. I only put the final drive back on at the moment and wanted to get some feedback on this.

So, I'm guessing I was taking a short cut to just putting the final drive back on from the back end. I have the Clymer's manual (couldn't find any direction on how to set phase correctly) 

So will I basically have to take the whole lever arm off to access the FWD side? sounds like it, plus I assume those splines will need grease as well. down further I go!

    

13Back to top Go down   1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Empty Re: 1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Fri Apr 16, 2021 2:08 pm

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
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I'm not understanding what you are trying to do.  There is no need to remove the swingarm if that is what you're talking about.  

The forward part of the drive shaft is held in place on the output shaft of the transmission with a spring ring that sits in a groove on the output shaft.  Grab the end of the drive shaft with a pair of Vise Grips and give it a hearty yank and it will come out of the swing arm.  Then you can make your phasing marks and lube the splines at the transmission end of the drive shaft.  

When you put it back together, insert the front part of the drive shaft in the swing arm with your mark in a spot where it can be easily seen.  Push the drive shaft back onto the transmission output splines until the spring stops it.  A good whack or two will then push the driveshaft onto the output splines.  When you have it in place you will not be able to easily pull it out.  Then it's a simple matter to slide the rear section of the drive shaft splines into the forward part with the proper phase alignment.

One final note on phase alignment of the u-joints.  When you have the shaft on your bench you will notice that you cannot get the u-joints in perfect alignment.  They will be off by about half a spline.  This is to allow for the deflection of the rubber shock cushion in the forward part of the drive shaft.  The shaft rotates anti-clockwise as you look at it from the rear of the bike.  To allow for the rubber cushion the rear u-joint should be slightly ahead in an anti- clockwise direction of the front joint.  Again, this is looking at the drive shaft from the rear of the bike.

When you have the joints aligned this way, the resistance of the rear wheel to the torque on the front part of the drive shaft will twist the rubber in the shaft so the u-joints go into perfect phase.


__________________________________________________
Present: 1991 K100RS "Moby Brick Too"
 
Past:
1994 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
1988 K100RS SE "Special Ed"
1994 K75S "Cheetos"
1992 K100RS "Moby Brick" R.I.P.
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

14Back to top Go down   1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Empty Re: 1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Fri Apr 16, 2021 4:07 pm

K-dawg

K-dawg
active member
active member
Point-Seven-five wrote:I'm not understanding what you are trying to do.  There is no need to remove the swingarm if that is what you're talking about.  

The forward part of the drive shaft is held in place on the output shaft of the transmission with a spring ring that sits in a groove on the output shaft.  Grab the end of the drive shaft with a pair of Vise Grips and give it a hearty yank and it will come out of the swing arm.  Then you can make your phasing marks and lube the splines at the transmission end of the drive shaft.  

When you put it back together, insert the front part of the drive shaft in the swing arm with your mark in a spot where it can be easily seen.  Push the drive shaft back onto the transmission output splines until the spring stops it.  A good whack or two will then push the driveshaft onto the output splines.  When you have it in place you will not be able to easily pull it out.  Then it's a simple matter to slide the rear section of the drive shaft splines into the forward part with the proper phase alignment.

One final note on phase alignment of the u-joints.  When you have the shaft on your bench you will notice that you cannot get the u-joints in perfect alignment.  They will be off by about half a spline.  This is to allow for the deflection of the rubber shock cushion in the forward part of the drive shaft.  The shaft rotates anti-clockwise as you look at it from the rear of the bike.  To allow for the rubber cushion the rear u-joint should be slightly ahead in an anti- clockwise direction of the front joint.  Again, this is looking at the drive shaft from the rear of the bike.  

When you have the joints aligned this way, the resistance of the rear wheel to the torque on the front part of the drive shaft will twist the rubber in the shaft so the u-joints go into perfect phase.

Ok. I think I'm clear now. I didn't know you can pull the forward part out.
This clears it up!  Thank you for the suggestions!

    

15Back to top Go down   1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Empty Re: 1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Fri Apr 16, 2021 8:20 pm

Rick G

Rick G
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1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Drive_10
This may help explain


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"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 1999 K1100 LT with a Big Block 1200
    

16Back to top Go down   1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Empty Re: 1994 1100 LT - Final Drive Sat Apr 17, 2021 12:34 am

K-dawg

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Thanks Rick. 
I think what I didn't know (in addition to the phase setting) was that I could pull the entire shaft out.

So, I pulled shaft out (huge thanks to .75 in his last post) with some visegrips.

1994 1100 LT - Final Drive 20210425

I made two points alignment so I can place final drive in phase. 
Took it for a short test drive nothing really notable to comment on. No vibrations I accelerated up to 60mph. Can't say I noticed anything different. Not sure I would either.

    

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