All righty !
Tested it and when I depress the starter button the fuel pump (old one used to test as I don't want to run the new one dry with the empty tank), runs for a couple of seconds like it was ment to do.
All those "idiot proof" safety features that would prevent a start if not in neutral, or whitout pulling the clutch if in gear, and prevent damaging the teeth of the starter gear and windings above 710 RPM and other features :
Quick explanation of the principle:
What's happening when you press the starter switch:
The starter relay and Fuel Injection relay close, Hall sensors get power.
The FI relay energizes (+) the fuel pump, the idle switch, the injectors and the air
flow meter.
The LE-Jetronic receives (pin #4) the signal that the engine is starting and it sets
itself on starting mode (enriching the air/fuel mixture)
Electronic ignition module pin # 9-10-14 send power to the ignition coil
Electronic ignition module pin #8 send engine rpm info to pin #1 of FI computer
Electronic ignition module pin #7 sends ground to the coil of the FI relay as soon
as the starter switch is depressed. The ground will stay on after the starter switch is
released as long as the Electronic ignition module receives a signal from the Hall
sensors.
Note: Under 1300rpm, the timing is set to 6 . ̊ Then, the Electronic ignition module
will modify the timing according to the engine rpm.
At 8777rpm, the timing is reset back to 6 . ̊
At 8905 rpm, the fuel injection is shutdown by cutting the signal from pin #8
(Electronic ignition module) to pin #1 (LE-Jetronic) and will resume when the rpm
come back down to this value (This is to avoid over running the engine).
When engine runs over 710rpm, the Electronic ignition module shuts off the
ground to the coil of the starter relay (pin #11). (This is a higher rpm than what
the starter is capable. and at this point the Electronic ignition module assumes
that the engine is running).
If the engine stalls (no more signal from the Hall sensor), the Electronic ignition
module will shut off the ground to the FI relay and to the coils. (This is to protect
the output transistors and coils).
All nice things that makes the bike safer and last longer.
Compared to my old HOREX 450 mono gylinder I had in 1973 where if you forgot to turn down the timing before kickstarting it, you'll end up doing a back flip salto, & get a broken foot. I know it because the previous owner sold it to me for that reason.
As for the Kawasaki 500 Mach 3 - 2 stroke (widow maker) I had in 1975, you better knew what you were doing, because only drum brakes @ 240 km/h took 2 Km to decelerate, not much engine breaking allowed because the oil was premixed in the gas, and if you shut off the throtle, you cut off lubrification, and seize the central piston.
But I am still around, now at 68.
Amazed that this brick was so much ahead of it's time & competion way back in 1985.
So now back to put it all back together, after I replace the headlight bulb with an HID type.
Thanks to all who joined in helping.