Hi guys,

Pulled the oil and water pump a few hours ago. Knocked out all the old seals. Found some crystals growing in the pump. Cleaned it all out and found some areas that are deteriorated near the radiator seal mounting surface.

Wondering if others have had similar issues and rebuilt the existing pump? Or if they replaced the pump housing.

I’m new here. Posting from mobile. Will try to get a pic posted ASAP for your review

You can see the marks just past 12 o clock and about 2 o clock.

Thanks for any advice

those marks don't look too serious - so long as the bore for the new seal is good, then things should be okay. the main issue with these pumps is the condition of the impeller shaft. there's loads of information on this forum. do a forum search and make sure you're familiar with the correct way to reassemble the seal - it's possible to destroy it if you do it wrong, but don't let that scare you, it's a simple enough concept once you get the hang of how it works.

9'pologies, cat knocked coffee over the keyboard - an act of typical cat spite because i wouldn't feed her quickly enough - now the shift key doesn't work9

chris846 wrote:those marks don't look too serious - so long as the bore for the new seal is good, then things should be okay. the main issue with these pumps is the condition of the impeller shaft. there's loads of information on this forum. do a forum search and make sure you're familiar with the correct way to reassemble the seal - it's possible to destroy it if you do it wrong, but don't let that scare you, it's a simple enough concept once you get the hang of how it works.

9'pologies, cat knocked coffee over the keyboard - an act of typical cat spite because i wouldn't feed her quickly enough - now the shift key doesn't work9

Just get a mouse....

ah, although the shift key isn't working, the shift boot still works fine
grrrr

Thanks for the quick reply. I’ve watched a few YouTube videos and done some reading on reinstalling the seals. I have the parts and tools from EME here in Denver. Will get it slapped back together today. Then just some new tires and she’s ready for next season (or maybe I’ll get a few warm days still in 2020)

I also have one I those pushy furballs, 2 actually, so no judgement on punctuation from me.

Update here.

Seated the seals, gooped it up with motoseal and installed it.

Filled fluids, started right up, pissed fuel all over the garage. . 30 year old fuel hoses were the culprit. Ran to the shop, got hoses, clamps... got the air box off despite some very stubborn socket cap screws and a mouse nest that must have traveled from pops barn in SC all the way here to Denver. Replaced fuel lines and sir filter. Reinstalled air box, started right up... DIDNT piss fuel everywhere. But it’s stumbling when you give it gas quickly or come down to idle. Idle seems a touch low, maybe lean? Noticed the pcv hose is cracked. Gonna swap that tomorrow after I grab a new one. Rubber bits are cheap and pretty easy on this thing. So I’ll keep inspecting that stuff until I run out of rubber to replace.

Let it run a few minutes with the fast idle engaged. No more oil leak. No froth in the brand new oil so I think I’m good on this water pump.

Many thanks to euro Moto electric for being open on Sunday. Lifesavers for bmw motorbikes.

Also a big thanks to you guys. A little nudge to say “just install it” was just what I needed. Also picked up some new tires and brake fluid. If I get the fueling right I’ll get my couple rides in before the snow comes.

Oh I should mention, fuel pump internals are new 11 months ago. So between that and this batch of new external hoses, fuel delivery shouldn’t be the issue. That’s why I’m concentrating effort to cracked rubber, especially since it moved from humid SC to dry Denver and has mostly sat this year.

Well, there is one expensive set of rubber bits that you need to look at - the intake and manifold rubbers either side of the throttle bodies. They usually crack underneath the oetiker clamps.