1 Painting, some new tech Tue Jun 09, 2020 10:09 pm
jjefferies
Life time member
Background: I'm restoring a '90 K75. Project has been on hold for the past 6-7 years. Originally I took the bike apart, powder coated the frame then shot the plastic bits put it back together sufficiently to be able to roll it around. And then it sat until COVID-19 created a time when I really needed a project to keep from going bonkers. Well it's almost back together. The painting on the plastic however was marred a bit while sitting, not to mention parts being lost etc. So I decided to hit the various bits with a single rattle can, reassemble until I can see it's up and running and then get into a major paint job. I've done this before and there are several key factors I've not firmed up yet.
Phase 1: I look around the garage and have multiple cans of spray paint including one Dupli-Color Silver for a Toyota my ex used to have. Great, and there's a really large spray can of clear that advises it's good for protection against UV. Super! As mentioned some parts, tank, rear tail piece, side panels, were already painted one or more shades of silver. So Hey, it's a good day for painting. I've wet sanded the parts to be done, the temps are 80degrees F./25C and very light winds. Last few days have seen winds of 35-45 mph. So it's ho for outside and shoot the parts, front fender(2pcs) and the radiator cowling(2pcs). Silver goes on great. It's flashing as fast as it hits the parts. In fact it may be flashing just a tad too fast. By flashing I mean drying. The paint solvent evaporates i.e. flahes. Time depends on temperature and humidity. But it goes on fine and looks quite nice and shiny. So now the UV protecting clear coat. Hmm, the bright silver seems to be dulling with the addition of the clear coat. But I'm outside with sunglasses on and think it'll probably clear up as it dries. Whoa, what was a pretty shiny nice silver with addition of the clear coat is now a very good imitation military gray. Damn.!
Phase 2: So off to my friendly car/cycle paint shop, San Leandro Color. I've shot (i.e. painted) a number of bikes. You do that when the shiny side won't stay upright. But not for the past 10+ years. And when I did it I used a hardner in the paint which is now not quite legal. So I have to educate myself again. But I do have all the necessary equipment, guns, compressors, even a positive air flow system so I don't breath in anything too lethal. I get down to the paint store and ask the friendly guy in a mask behind the counter for a graduate education in current paint systems. It seems in my case there are three:
1. seimi-traditional: using my spray gun/compressor setup buy by the tin. Shoot in color and top off with clear coat. The bottom/color coat is reduced 1:1 with reducer. The clear coat has an activator which you add to it before spraying. Cleanup is with lacquer thinner. Approx cost for smallest quantity USD $180. Probably would have half left over.
2. Rattle can Single stage with activator: This is the system used by racer boys who know they're going to be re-painting the bike after the season due to drops etc. You buy by the rattle can but with new tech. There is now a button of the bottom of the can where it used to just be curved up. Pressing the button releases activator into the paint and you have X number of minutes to shoot the target object before the paint in the can turns to rock or solidified paint. Approx $35/can.
3. Rattle can Two can/Stage with activator: Kind of old and new. You buy two rattle cans. They are separate color and clear coat. But the clear coat can has the activator button arrangement. You shoot the color, let it flash, then shoot the clear coat after activating it. Approx cost USD $80. for the set of cans. And of course you may or may not need multiples.
The store can mix up whatever color you want using standards from all the major auto/motorcycle manufacturers. So I go home to contemplate approaches.
Phase 3: I get home look at the trashed paint job parts and think ok, now for a lot of wet sanding. But hey what happens if just apply acetone? Just an experiment. There was no activator used. So 3/4 gallon of acetone, a bunch of rags and the bad paint job is essentially wiped off. Took more time and effort than I'm letting on. But then to wet sand it. And the thought hits me. I haven't really committed to a final paint scheme YET. And what if I just want to do a trial run??
Anyway, that's what I learned today the hard way. Hope the intel is of some use to others.
best regards.
Phase 1: I look around the garage and have multiple cans of spray paint including one Dupli-Color Silver for a Toyota my ex used to have. Great, and there's a really large spray can of clear that advises it's good for protection against UV. Super! As mentioned some parts, tank, rear tail piece, side panels, were already painted one or more shades of silver. So Hey, it's a good day for painting. I've wet sanded the parts to be done, the temps are 80degrees F./25C and very light winds. Last few days have seen winds of 35-45 mph. So it's ho for outside and shoot the parts, front fender(2pcs) and the radiator cowling(2pcs). Silver goes on great. It's flashing as fast as it hits the parts. In fact it may be flashing just a tad too fast. By flashing I mean drying. The paint solvent evaporates i.e. flahes. Time depends on temperature and humidity. But it goes on fine and looks quite nice and shiny. So now the UV protecting clear coat. Hmm, the bright silver seems to be dulling with the addition of the clear coat. But I'm outside with sunglasses on and think it'll probably clear up as it dries. Whoa, what was a pretty shiny nice silver with addition of the clear coat is now a very good imitation military gray. Damn.!
Phase 2: So off to my friendly car/cycle paint shop, San Leandro Color. I've shot (i.e. painted) a number of bikes. You do that when the shiny side won't stay upright. But not for the past 10+ years. And when I did it I used a hardner in the paint which is now not quite legal. So I have to educate myself again. But I do have all the necessary equipment, guns, compressors, even a positive air flow system so I don't breath in anything too lethal. I get down to the paint store and ask the friendly guy in a mask behind the counter for a graduate education in current paint systems. It seems in my case there are three:
1. seimi-traditional: using my spray gun/compressor setup buy by the tin. Shoot in color and top off with clear coat. The bottom/color coat is reduced 1:1 with reducer. The clear coat has an activator which you add to it before spraying. Cleanup is with lacquer thinner. Approx cost for smallest quantity USD $180. Probably would have half left over.
2. Rattle can Single stage with activator: This is the system used by racer boys who know they're going to be re-painting the bike after the season due to drops etc. You buy by the rattle can but with new tech. There is now a button of the bottom of the can where it used to just be curved up. Pressing the button releases activator into the paint and you have X number of minutes to shoot the target object before the paint in the can turns to rock or solidified paint. Approx $35/can.
3. Rattle can Two can/Stage with activator: Kind of old and new. You buy two rattle cans. They are separate color and clear coat. But the clear coat can has the activator button arrangement. You shoot the color, let it flash, then shoot the clear coat after activating it. Approx cost USD $80. for the set of cans. And of course you may or may not need multiples.
The store can mix up whatever color you want using standards from all the major auto/motorcycle manufacturers. So I go home to contemplate approaches.
Phase 3: I get home look at the trashed paint job parts and think ok, now for a lot of wet sanding. But hey what happens if just apply acetone? Just an experiment. There was no activator used. So 3/4 gallon of acetone, a bunch of rags and the bad paint job is essentially wiped off. Took more time and effort than I'm letting on. But then to wet sand it. And the thought hits me. I haven't really committed to a final paint scheme YET. And what if I just want to do a trial run??
Anyway, that's what I learned today the hard way. Hope the intel is of some use to others.
best regards.
Last edited by jjefferies on Wed Jun 10, 2020 2:26 pm; edited 1 time in total