Hey all, I spent a few hours yesterday battling with my oil filter. Started out with a 17mm. That stripped right away. I have since bent a screwdriver, attempted a claw-type oil filter wrench & completely destroyed the filter. I'm guessing this sucker has been on for YEARS.

Anybody else ever dealt with this? Any ideas for last-resort removal?

P.S. it is a round filter, so the large wrench will not work here.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/QSWErRi2nca2q7GT9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/YtNKtZTdLrBqRBW46

HOTAIR GUN get the filter as hot as possible and try again.Last resort is a long screwdriver and top on filter rim to get it to turn

moriarti wrote:HOTAIR GUN get the filter as hot as possible and try again.Last resort is a long screwdriver and top on filter rim to get it to turn

That's a genius idea, I dunno why I didn't think of that.

There's not a ton left of the filter, but I can still kinda grab on with that claw wrench.

Ha Ha its the rubber seal that's hanging on most likely,due to the filter being OVER TIGHTENED

That's nice and messy!

moriarti wrote:Ha Ha its the rubber seal that's hanging on most likely,due to the filter being OVER TIGHTENED

Oh for sure. People tend to WAY overdo filters.

Dai wrote:That's nice and messy!

I'm pretty good at making a mess of things!

Morons who use filter wrenches to install filters. SMH

Point-Seven-five wrote:Morons who use filter wrenches to install filters. SMH

More like not knowing how to use filter wrenches to install filters.

The removal tool is much better than the nut thing on some filters. Its great for installing the replacement filter, gives good feel to avoid over tightening it.

If you run into real problems remove the sump plate [no gasket only sealant] and as you are in there clean the pick up strainer. Use heat on the Allen bolts before trying to get them out and clean the bolt recesses before you start.

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:The removal tool is much better than the nut thing on some filters. Its great for installing the replacement filter, gives good feel to avoid over tightening it.

If you run into real problems remove the sump plate [no gasket only sealant] and as you are in there clean the pick up strainer. Use heat on the Allen bolts before trying to get them out and clean the bolt recesses before you start.

Great info, thanks!

I have already removed the sump plate & cleaned up the strainer. 

Tonight I'm going to heat up the filter & (God willing) get it removed.

STILL waiting for my Clymers .. 3 weeks from California still "in Transit". I dont even know where oil filter is on motor as I havent really looked for it yet. Just ordered a Wix 51348 oil filter and Mobil1 V-twin 20-50W from Oreillys. Will spin motor no plugs, to make sure no clanks then hopefully run engine just till warm with new economy oil. Then drain and new filter again with Mobil1 I just bought (on sale @ Oreilly's 8.99/qt) if everything looks cool. Was wondering if I would need a tool to get oil filter off .. have recently bought a kit with different sized "cups" to use with ratchet. Does something come in the correct BMW tool pouch?

A shop manual is available via the Portal page:

https://www.kforum-tech.com/


Mike

Be sure to GROUND the plug leads before spinning engine .Don't just let them hang loose

moriarti wrote:Be sure to GROUND the plug leads before spinning engine .Don't just let them hang loose

If you use a pacemaker stay clear of doing this....

I once had to fight with a filter stuck in the engine. And it was a R1100GS, so no sump plate to remove here...
The "cup tool" was inefficient due to rounded angles on the filter.
I tried to pick a screwdriver into the filter to wrench it.
The thin metal sheet of the filter tore.
I tried to apply this method on various places, with no results until I had no choice but peel the filter to remove the shell and the paper elements in it.
Then appeared the basis of the filter, solid steel, with a central tube and six (or eight) holes into the basis.
I made a tool that was guided by this tube, wraping a bigger diameter tube onto it, and welding at the base a thick washer with two threaded holes facing the holes of the filter basis. Two screw were bolted into, so they could be inserted into the holes in the basis of the filter.
The other top of the tool's tube was perforated so a I could insert a mandrel into, and use it as a lever to eventually unscrew that filter.

Anyone in the habit of changing oil filters on Mercedes, and Honda diesels.....? 

Ran an E320cdi for 10 years.......now MB sure know how to fek up.....

I escaped the plastic sump issues......they spec the torque for the sump bolt......no problem, but on synthetic oils that can be left in 12 months lots of heat.........takes double the torque to slacken the bolt cos it sticks and the decayed plastic can't take it....snap crackle poop.....time to change the sump........eh the sub frame cross member is in the way....

Thanks for manual reference ... found the oil change instructions and will pickup the BMW cup tool and filter change kit and filters from the local MAX dealer. Wanted to talk to the parts guy face to face anyways. Hoping there will be a good mate between filter and tool with genuine stuff. Will get the right info/supplies to flush the coolant system as well ... both these items provided no clanks when I try spinning with my WIX and cheap oil. So grounding the spark plug wires will not fry the electronic ignition ?? Is there anyplace to hook an external gauge to verify oil pressure? 

Found my green in the K100 history section of manual at the very bottom, guy posting a sign with picture of green bike in 85, but the 85 color chart does not show 606 and the single green color is 617 ???

keithnh wrote:. . . both these items provided no clanks when I try spinning with my WIX and cheap oil.

What does this statement mean?

keithnh wrote:Thanks for manual reference ... found the oil change instructions and will pickup the BMW cup tool and filter change kit and filters from the local MAX dealer. Wanted to talk to the parts guy face to face anyways. Hoping there will be a good mate between filter and tool with genuine stuff. Will get the right info/supplies to flush the coolant system as well ... both these items provided no clanks when I try spinning with my WIX and cheap oil. So grounding the spark plug wires will not fry the electronic ignition ?? Is there anyplace to hook an external gauge to verify oil pressure? 

Found my green in the K100 history section of manual at the very bottom, guy posting a sign with picture of green bike in 85, but the 85 color chart does not show 606 and the single green color is 617 ???

Not grounding the ignition leads with spark plugs to cylinder head could damage the module or coils.
The OEM oil filter has 14 'flutes' as does any good oil filter tool spec'd to suit the K bike. There is an inexpensive steel version available from the Tucker catalogue at your favourite any-brand moto dealership. No need to buy the BMW Hazet aluminium version, though it is a good piece of kit for your tool box.
Remove the oil pressure light switch from near the water pump and thread an adaptor and analogue gauge into that threaded hole to verify oil pressure if needed.

I have no idea the condition of this motor, does not look bad but could have thrown rod, broken crank loose pieces in valve train etc. that might "clank" or "clunk" or ??? It may just need a key and gas.  Bought my R65 2 decades ago heard it run before purchasing. If this bike is broken I will attempt to fix it as I like the size, look, liquid cooled-fi aspect, driveshaft and brand of it. Currently working a much less sophisticated 87 Sportster as well that is my "big project" as I have changed several aspects of it trying to learn abit about wrenching on/customizing bikes. This K100 popped up for a song and caught my eye, hoping I can make a runner out of it in stock trim .. maybe learn abit as well.

You are saying basically move the plugs so they fire somewhere else outside combustion chamber on the engine block .. as opposed to ground out the spark plug center conductors continuously. I have done this to check spark before though never all cylinders at once. Just need 4 jumpers I guess.

The BMW oil filter wrench and oil change kit are not expensive enough for me to rule out, I prefer to use them anyway. You get all new pan seals.

Will look for oil pressure light switch fitting thanks!!

I made a cheap and easy to make plug lead earth loom.

Checked oil level with sight glass and was full, very clean oil look like had just been changed. Smells sweet - no gas smell or indication of coolant leak. Actually fired up and no clanks sounds good and after a little idles fine. Indicators appear to all be working and no oil pressure or temp issues showed. Not sure if coolant is at proper level so shutoff after abot 60 seconds but bike sounds nice. Will warm again after acquiring oil change supplies and drain to put in my new filter and Mobil1. After I verify coolant level. Small amount of gas in tank smelled new not skunky, tank clean as a whistle. Have not tried to drive yet, will wait till new oil and all lubes and coolant checked. Might have a runner here YAAY  (Knocking on wood)

Headed to Beamer shop now ... was wondering about coolant and fuel filters. Gas looks/smells very clean but would like to start our party with all clean filters, especially gas on a fi bike. Looks like there may be an integral basket filter in tank? or inline canister dependent on manufacture date, Ive always liked the glass see-thru inline .. I believe fuel pressure more important with fuel injection, possible a bad filter arrangement might impede it. Spent extra on a Pingel petcock for my Sportster project and sent to Germany for a German made dual outlet petcock for my R65 to hopefully aid fuel delivery and maybe grab a few more mph in both cases, dont want to make any boo-boos with my K, it will be much faster than the other bikes and need more fuel. Any input helpful

Oil filter is off! Took heat, two vice-grips & a screwdriver.

Now onto the rear diff. What weight oil is recommended?

The oil filter gasket is still stuck to the engine!  Make sure you remove it.

Point-Seven-five wrote:The oil filter gasket is still stuck to the engine!  Make sure you remove it.

No worries, it came off before the new one went on.

I hope you put some oil on the new gasket.  Wouldn't want to go down that road again.

Point-Seven-five wrote:I hope you put some oil on the new gasket.  Wouldn't want to go down that road again.

I always put some fresh oil on the gasket!

I feel for you commonsense man. Some years ago I posted about a stuck oil filter on an ex-Japan K100 import I purchased, when I was doing the first oil change.  A Sumo wrestler must have put it on. I broke the factory oil filter removal tool attempting to unscrew it. Eventually I drove a 10mm diameter high tensile steel bolt through both side walls of the filter and levered with a heavy steel tube about 800mm long. With huge effort it eventually broke loose, but the leverage exerted was sufficient I was fearful I would break the engine block casting. Fortunately no broken casting. 
Above advice is correct - when refitting a filter, lube the base o-ring seal with oil and do not over tighten. There only needs to be sufficient tightness to prevent the filter from unscrewing itself due to engine vibration.

commonsenseman wrote:Now onto the rear diff. What weight oil is recommended?

Using what's recommended in the manual always works. I've been using 80W90 for six years from May to early November. The temperature ranges from a few 90ºF days in the summer to a few 17ºF days in November. The moto is in unheated storage with its battery disconnected from mid-November to sometime in May.