Hi all,

I put my trickle charger on over night yesterday and when I started her this morning I had fuel dripping out

from the rear of the motor, plus a nice k bike blue smoke haze wafting up the street.

The system dried up quickly, but this is the second time this has happened after leaving her on charge .

 I could hear the something buzzing as I turned the ignition on.

My pump is original, new FPR and she runs very well, but this is annoying

Any ideas ?  really odd.

Bob

Hi Bob easy peasy next time disconnect battery,when charging.Then listen for the buzzzzz when you reconnect,bit of a faf but worth it   The last thing you need is a BIG BANG.

Hi Moriarti,

will do that next time, although as I use the bike regularly its not often I have to.

I need to understand why, after charging the battery the pump runs after switching the ignition on.

After turning the ignition on a second time, I could not hear the pump running.

My charger is a C-tek MX 7.0 on a 4 post Motobatt battery.

Bob

Hi Bob,until a spark guru posts the answer,how good is the battery?? a poor/lazy 
one can cause havoc on a K,what is the alternator putting out,if you wish change/swap fuel pump relay to eliminate that.On the early Ks you dont hear the pump per/say unless you open fuel cap and stick one ear in

If your signature of a K100LT is correct its a 2v engine and pump should NOT run after you turn on the ignition.

Sounds like issue of fuel pump relay.....stuck. But does it buzz as soon as you connect the battery.....is FPR connected right way round....

Moriarti,

battery is good, charging good, and I do not normally hear the fuel pump at all.

Olaf, yes mine is a 2 valve and when I removed  the battery from the bike to charge it, there was no issue 

afterwards.

The FPR is newish and fitted correctly.

This only happens whilst trickle charging with the battery in situ and fully connected to the system.

Although my c-tek showed green, ie fully charged , I left in on overnight .

The buzzing noise was quite loud.. 

Perhaps I should leave it on charge again, but disconnect the fuel pump connector to see if it is the relay

buzzing.

Bob

Try pulling the fuel pump fuse #6 Kraftstoppe, and see if the noise is still present.
Regards Martin.

I think you're saying your cranking it while the charger is connected, not good. Disconnect the charger before starting, problem solved.

The bike is never started whilst hooked up, 

MartinW does fuse 6 isolate the fuel pump or the relay too.

Which colour wire is the live for the fuel pump, so I can test it without spraying fuel everywhere.

Although lock down is here, motorcycle riding is now classed as leisure so I am trying to make excuses 

to get out and ride.  

Garden is a priority at the moment, so I will get around to checking a few things later in the year.

Bob

Diagram  

http://www.kforum-tech.com/Downloads/electrical/diagrams/interactive_diagrams.htm

the FI relay is before the Fuse 6 which isolates the fuel pump leg of circuit

What wire are you referring to for test fuel pump- The inner petrol tank fuel pump wires or the external wires to 4-pin connector?

A dirty or faulty starter motor can be cause of unexplained electrical gremlins

STARTER MOTOR REBUILD

Starter Backspin

Robmack's Starter Motor Cleaning Tutorial

I routinely use various sizes of C-Tek chargers on my bikes, and occasionally start one, forgetting that the C-Tek is still attached. I've never had these issues, so I doubt very much that it is related to the charger. In my experience, the C-Tek is the best of the intelligent chargers.

I'd be looking elsewhere for a solution to the problem.

Bill

The starter provides earth to just the load shed relay, and it's cranking so the starter has earth. I'm thinking like Olaf says the fuel injection relay shouldn't give power with just ignition on. Either it's getting signal power when it shouldn't (pin 86) or it's stuck on. Dirty contacts inside the fuel injection relay could explain why it's intermittent.

The headlight should turn off while the start button is pressed and it's cranking.

Is the buzz sound the fuel pump, or do you mean you have two sounds, the pump and a buzz?

Ignition lock switch full 'ON' > Kill switch 'ON' > will introduce 12V to FI relay Pin86

with a closed Clutch switch > depressed the starter switch > the Electronic ignition module pin #7 sends ground to Pin85 energizing the FI relay > power to fuel pump

The FI relay energizes (+) the fuel pump, the idle switch (TPI sw), the injectors and the air flow meter.

Yep, I should have said it's getting earth when it shouldn't, or it's stuck on.

I am not really sure whether the buzzing came from the pump or a relay, but it was quite loud.

it did not do it after switching back on a second time.

The fuel was dripping over the exhaust at no 4 cylinder, scary...

I will disconnect the fuel pump external connector and leave her on charge and check for power 

when I disconnect the charger and switch on.

My bike does take a little longer cranking before she fires up, so I need to recheck my pressures.

Both pump screen and fuel filter have been cleaned/ replaced as was the FPR, but the pump is original

as far as I know.

Why the fuel pump runs when it is not designed to, ie, on the key but only after charging is weird..

I will check fuse #6

I have no clutch switch 

I will order a new relay and then try and check a few things 

My starter motor was cleaned last year.

Thanks to all


Bob

You have no clutch switch?

Does that mean it isn't working, or has been disconnected from the loom - or has someone been in and altered, or tried to alter the wiring so's it doesn't need one? If you think the latter might be the case that could indicate weird 'ignition on' behaviour. The clutch switch/neutal interlock circuit is about as complicated as the wiring gets on a K so a mistake might have been made.

After your tests, while the tank is off, deoxit your earth's and plugs. Voltage drop from poor earth could jam the relay on, a bit like what sometimes happens with the starter relay, maybe. Regardless, it can only be a good thing to give them a clean while you're there.

I cleaned all the connectors  last year.

There was no clutch / sidestand cable or any clutch switch fitted when I got the bike.

When I get the tank off, I look for the clutch cut out wiring.

This has only happened twice in 40k   so not exactly a regular issue.

Looking at the " what is live " circuit, the relay seems to be favourite.

I will report back in a week or so, railway sleepers  in the garden are my priority at the moment.

Bob

By the way, a buzz can sometimes be caused by the output shaft.

Have you ever had a look at the output shaft?