I finally got tired of my starter engaging after two or three tries...So I Cleaned it! Here is what i did for those who are interested.

First do THIS!!!

I removed my intermediate housing or leave it on for this next step. Loosen off the bolt hoding the alternator drive. you will need to wedge the drive to undo the bolt. I ended up using a socket as the wood kept crushing.

Then using a bearing puller I had ground the claws down on I pulled the drive up a bit at a time until it would just pull out.


This is where you can remove your auxiliary housing if you left it on the engine and remove the freewheel and counter shaft.
Once the Freewheel was on the bench i could see the residue from 30 yrs oil


Removed the gear wheel from the clutch and auxillary shaft they just gently pull apart. Then remove the 6 bolts holding the covering plate over the gear wheel. Then set the gear wheel on the bench and Gently pries the sprag clutch out.


Here is my gummed up sprag. Be very care full not to dislodge any of the lobes. They are held in by a very small fine spring.

The Very Fine Springs

Now put it in a small tray of solvent to soak for a bit. I should have placed it back in the ring to clean it as I managed to knock some of the lobes out. Use a toothbrush or whatever yu fancy. Once its all clean start to put it back together.
Put the ring on auxillary shaft, spacer ring in next followed by some oil and the sprag clutch. be sure its the right way around!


Then some more oil and then the cover plate and bolts. Torque up to spec..


Next I did the bearings in the Gear Wheel. These came out easily enough with a tube socket as a drift and with some heat..


Time for Coffee!!!!!!! Cheeky Cafe Staff!!


I used a length of threaded rod I had lying about to pull the new bearings in.


New Bearings in place. be sure to take them in far enough.

Now oil the sprag clutch through the holes in the ring and oil the Auxilary shaft and the gear wheel bearings.


Then gently twist the auxiliary shaft into the sprag clutch turning the same way as the lobes point and it should just slide right back in.
I then did a naughty thing and cleaned the threads up.(might want to do this first! then clean things up)

Thats it for this bit. Next the bearing and seal for the intermediate housing and the bearing in the engine block for the auxiliary shaft.

To replace the bearing in the block for the auxiliary shaft you will need a blind bearing puller. (good sets for 30 bucks in aus)This is how it comes out. I then made a drift up to drive the new one home from a large bolt i linished down to size.


Next I replaced the bearing /seal in the Intermediate housing. It was easy to remove if you follow the instructions in your haynes manual.

Bearing

Torque/Loctite

Put it all back together

Torque the drive bolt up...

All done. Do not forget to put the counter shaft in before you torque things up This solved my problem of a spinning sprag clutch. I changed the bearings because I was in there. I am still on the trail of a small rattle !!!!!

Excellent how to and photos ! I think you should write a manual " K Bikes For DUMMIES "

great post alby ...

man..... you have done things many of us just dream of doing ....

cheers !!!

charlie99 wrote:great post alby ...

man..... you have done things many of us just dream of doing ....

cheers !!!

+1 Alby - Such clarity would inspire confidence in even a ludite like me tackling the job.

Moderator....move to "How to" section please!

88KE

done ...great post !

Top job Alby, thats a good write up many thanks.



BIG D

Thanks Alby. I agree with 88KE

kf

A great and informative post Alby - thanks so much

Outstanding pics Alby!

OG

After knocking out some Pawls I found the best way to handle them is to use some dental floss to hold the tiny spring open and insert the pawl from the inside out. It also makes it easier to work in an anticlockwise direction.

Once I discovered this technique I  became brave enough to take them all out and refit them individually. Just make sure you've got them the right way round