hey guys my new to me 93 k1100lt sat for a few days and i guess i left the radio on... 

battery drained. got home and put it on the charger. i was told its a 1yr old battery. its a Yuasa AGM battery.

abs tripped a fault. i did change the tires while charging the battery up (they showed up after i left town)

now i cant even get the ABS to reset. ive grounded the center wire on every damn bolt i could including the actual battery ground.

ive held the abs button for 10sec, 30 seconds and nothing. the light still flashes. neither one ever goes solid. ive riden the bike 50 miles trying to see if it would jump the voltage up even more.

i dont have any way to get LEDs to make a code reader without ordering online (damn you radio shack!)

the battery reads 12.82 sitting. cranks the bike over fine. ive even tried resetting with my charger on 2amp trickle to help it.

after the bike does the brake light check both lights blink together.

the bike was working fine before i left on the trip. i really dont want to waste $100+ on a new battery i doubt i need.



thanks for any help in advance.

FIXED ENDED UP GETTING A NEW BATTERY. YOU GUYS WERE RIGHT ABOUT THE BATTERY

You can probably find a 12V LED at a shop that installs car audio equipment.

I bought the LED for my test wire at the local auto parts store.  You probably can too.

NAPA Auto Parts BK S9221

ok ill go check out napa and see if they have anything there. i know kragens and autozone are useless.

the stereo shops in town might have them still. 

if i get a led will i need a resistor? some write ups say you need one, some dont

Most LEDs have pretty low voltages which would require a resistor.  However if you get a 12V LED then no resistor is required.

If you install LED turn signal bulbs in a vehicle that wasn't designed for them then you need a load resistor to make the turn signal relay happy.  Doesn't apply to this.

duck wrote:Most LEDs have pretty low voltages which would require a resistor.  However if you get a 12V LED then no resistor is required.

If you install LED turn signal bulbs in a vehicle that wasn't designed for them then you need a load resistor to make the turn signal relay happy.  Doesn't apply to this.

well i dont know whats going on but i cant get the light to work at all... maybe the unit is fried?

i made a test light with a led bulb... checked that it works with polarity swapped on the battery and when i ground it and insert the other end in the middle plug i get nothing.

What LED bulb? If you have one that needs too much power then it won't light up.  That diagnostic plug does not put out a very strong signal.

duck wrote:What LED bulb? If you have one that needs too much power then it won't light up.  That diagnostic plug does not put out a very strong signal.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/LMOBPT10LEDN

only small LED bulb available at my local napa.

specs

Volts	12
Wattage	1

1 watt is quite a bit when it comes to LEDs.

The LEDs I use for reading ABS codes are about 0.12 watts.

If you go by a car stereo install place they will probably have 12V 5mm LEDs that draw much less current and are used as power on indicators.  (But don't buy a flashing alarm one.)

no car stereo place around me has those...

is 1watt really too much power?

I look for the milliamp(ma) spec of the LED.  Try looking for Dorman 'indicator' or 'pilot light' LED's.  They can be had in 12v versions that draw from 10 to 30ma.  They will turn on with as little as 3-5ma.

NoSprk wrote:is 1watt really too much power?

That diagnostic plug is not meant to be a power source.  If just sends out a small signal for diagnostic purposes.

Something like this should work
https://www.ebay.com/itm/8MM-ROUND-LED-T10-194-168-W5W-WHITE-AUTO-INTERIOR-DOME-12V-LIGHT-BULB-LAMP-BULBS/170877302173?hash=item27c914b59d%3Ag%3Ax0wAAOSwAydc-8Yz&LH_BIN=1

You can ride without ABS. The bike just has normal braking when the ABS is faulted.

You may have a faulty reset switch (which is very common). Does the flashing ABS light go solid when you press the ABS switch on the dash? If not then that switch needs to be working for an ABS reset to work.
Tosi Tabuki is the man with all the knowledge on the Bosch ABS. http://bmwk10075abs1fix.web.fc2.com/

The abs off switch works because I hit it while riding to get rid of the flashing abs lights. I know it has to be something stupid. I had to remove the rear caliper to squeeze the new RS rear wheel with the 160 radial tire on. I really need to check the gap for the sensors. I just found the OEM manual PDF online. Having a pint to wash my pain away lol. Death and taxes. Just called another stereo shop and he said he has tiny 12v LEDs. Wish me luck

I came across a guy on the ADV riders forum years ago who had to try 302 times and it eventually worked. Put a meter across the switch and see if it is a constant contact because if it is intermittent then it would reset the light to solid but not work on the ABS reset. Worth a try. I had an ABS 1 that was doing the same thing and sent it to Tosi for repair and was told all it needed was a reset which he did then all was OK but later it started playing up and not resetting and the switch was at fault. I made a special switch that I didn't need to hold down and the reset worked.

Rick G thanks for that info. I think I can make a reset switch of my own. The previous owner though there was issue with the abs and changed the battery. I wonder if I can change the battery with my giant r100gs unit to see if that changes. The fact I have almost 12.9volts sitting makes me doubt it's the battery

Well I have 6 blinks then it goes solid for 3-4 seconds. So a wise man (duck) told me I have 7 blinks. The internet code book says that's the abs unit . I'm going to let the battery sit with the ground off for awhile to see if it helps clear it.

If you think I'm a "wise man" then you need to find a better guru. The only thing I I excel at is breaking shit so that I learn not to do the same stupid thing twice. 

(Experience teaches us things that we never wanted to know in the first place.)

Oh man that gave me a good laugh.

so i let the battery stay disconnected all night. still wont reset. still showing the same code.

Have you tried turning the ignition key off then back on after about 15-20 miles. (this gives time for the battery to be fully charged and up to 14.2 volts) There are some who have set up the system so that the ABS doesn't get switched power until the bike has been running for 10 seconds. As I have no doubt you already know these ABS1 systems are very touchy on voltage and if the voltage drops below about 9.5 volts during cranking the ABS throws a fault. Check that the cranking voltage is above 10.5V. I know just how infuriating this problem can be as the K75 my wife had gave us grief with the same problem for quite a few years until Tosi fixed it and it has been faultless for 6-7 years now except for when a battery was failing.

I'll check that. I really don't want to blow $100 on a new battery if I don't need to. I thought about swapping my giant led acid battery from the r100gs in it as the tray looks big enough. I've also heard of oilhead bikes running a dedicated power source for the abs from cold starts drawing too much current.

I took a slow motion video of the code flash as it's solid when restarting not off. It's hard to read the blanks vs flashes. I'm definitely getting 7 "flashes"

You read the offs not the flashes, some will say that is the same but the last flash is the system returning to normal state in readiness for the next code.
7 Dips is the usual code when a fault comes up due to low battery voltage.
The battery voltage is critical but the large battery wont help if the present battery is in good condition. A flooded lead acid will have a standing voltage of 12.6 where an AGM will be about a point higher maybe 2 points which can make all the difference however the problems I had were with a good AGM battery.

RicK G wrote:You read the offs not the flashes, some will say that is the same but the last flash is the system returning to normal state in readiness for the next code.
7 Dips is the usual code when a fault comes up due to low battery voltage.
The battery voltage is critical but the large battery wont help if the present battery is in good condition. A flooded lead acid will have a standing voltage of 12.6 where an AGM will be about a point higher maybe 2 points which can make all the difference however the problems I had were with a good AGM battery.

a really helpful tool i found out i have is my cell phone video camera. it has a slow motion setting. as i said before its hard to read the dips vs the actual blinking. watching it in slow mo i can see the 7 dips confirming what i thought before.

i think im going to bite the bullet and buy a new battery. im pretty sure this one will fit in my /5 so it wont go to waste.

Ok so first thank you all for your input. So I put my other battery tender (cheap cycle gear unit) on the battery and let it sit for 2 days. Cleared the code and boom it's gone! I guess my official battery tender and napa normal charger didn't do enough. I've ridden it a few places today and it's not coming back. I can't believe even after riding 100 miles it still wasn't enough. I measured 11.8v on the abs fuse when I had 12.8 on the battery. I forgot to check the current voltage with a multi meter but I will when I get home today.

good news glad to hear it's resolved.

Still no real issues. Light came back on once. Weird thing was the actual abs light ended up going out and back on intermittently during my trip but the center brake light kept flashing. When the abs light was on it would stay lit with the center brake warning light if I turned the abs and it would flash with the center light if the abs light was on. Really weird. (didn't have a wire to reset it) when I got home it reset right away.