ayo!  I just put my engine back together and I have some leaking issues.  I believe I have coolant in my oil, I just replaced the seal but not sure if it is still leaking.  Is there a way to remove that without damaging it. I know it was pounded in pretty good. Or is there a for sure way to test if it isn't sealing without adding oil. Also I have other leaks, A leak where the oil pressure wire comes out of the hall transmitter or around that area.  Would that mean I didn't apply the bonding agent properly?  any help would be appreciated.

I understand you dismantled your pump and renewed it with new seals. Is that what you did?

Did you take advantage of that pump dismantling for upgrading it with a ceramic type looooong lasting coolant seal (the new oil seal will die before it)? That implies new propeller (unless you already had one made of folded steel blades) and new spacer between seal and propeller. That compulsorily implies new "big gear" in case your bike is of the very early times, with the shaft ending by a male threaded end (on which comes a nut). The following shafts are female, with the propeller fixed by a screw.

Anyway, the pump is designed for not mixing oil with coolant in case of leak of either the oil or the coolant seal. For that there is a spacing between the coolant and oil seals, which spacing is connected to outside via a hole in the pump body (hole ending at at place where a screw seems to miss...). To know whether you coolant or oil seal leaks, just observe what comes out of that hole, provided it is operational (not filled with rubbish).

If you installed a ceramic type seal, it is impossible to dismantle it without killing it. If you went for the original type, it is possible to dismantle without killing the seal but generally the large gear shaft is dead (corroded) and does not ensure the tightness any more, hence leaks.

As concerns the leak "where the oil pressure wire comes out of the Hall transmitter or around that area", is it a coolant or an oil leak? If it is a coolant leak, that is for sure the origin of your coolant and oil mixture if such a misture exists. Did you properly fit a new O ring between the water pump output and the engine casing?

Poupy wrote:I understand you dismantled your pump and renewed it with new seals. Is that what you did?

Did you take advantage of that pump dismantling for upgrading it with a ceramic type looooong lasting coolant seal (the new oil seal will die before it)? That implies new propeller (unless you already had one made of folded steel blades) and new spacer between seal and propeller. That compulsorily implies new "big gear" in case your bike is of the very early times, with the shaft ending by a male threaded end (on which comes a nut). The following shafts are female, with the propeller fixed by a screw.

Anyway, the pump is designed for not mixing oil with coolant in case of leak of either the oil or the coolant seal. For that there is a spacing between the coolant and oil seals, which spacing is connected to outside via a hole in the pump body (hole ending at at place where a screw seems to miss...). To know whether you coolant or oil seal leaks, just observe what comes out of that hole, provided it is operational (not filled with rubbish).

If you installed a ceramic type seal, it is impossible to dismantle it without killing it. If you went for the original type, it is possible to dismantle without killing the seal but generally the large gear shaft is dead (corroded) and does not ensure the tightness any more, hence leaks.

As concerns the leak "where the oil pressure wire comes out of the Hall transmitter or around that area", is it a coolant or an oil leak? If it is a coolant leak, that is for sure the origin of your coolant and oil mixture if such a misture exists. Did you properly fit a new O ring between the water pump output and the engine casing?

I did completely dismantle oil/water pump and replaced with new seals.  I needed to update the impeller as well as mine in an '85.  So there is no way to remove it without damaging, apparently.  including the oil/water seal I installed a new o ring on the back of the engine side shaft and the coolant passage as well.  Maybe I will just take all pieces of interest off and re-seat them and try again.

The replacement seals are one time use. They are ceramic and precoated with appropriate sealant around the periiter. Once installed, the only way they can be removed is to destroy them.

The seals are ceramic and should not be pounded in; they need to be carefully drawn into place with pressure using a bolt, some washers and nuts and a spacer, so that pressure is even and constant.

A leak from the Hall Sensor wire area probably means the sealant wasn't properly applied. You might have blocked the vent hole. Which sealant have you used?

robmack wrote:The replacement seals are one time use.  They are ceramic and precoated with appropriate sealant around the periiter.  Once installed, the only way they can be removed is to destroy them.

The seals are ceramic and should not be pounded in; they need to be carefully drawn into place with pressure using a  bolt, some washers and nuts and a spacer, so that pressure is even and constant.

A leak from the Hall Sensor wire area probably means the sealant wasn't properly applied.    You might have blocked the vent hole.  Which sealant have you used?

I have used drei-bond silicone 1209 elastic gasket.  After taking hall sensor cover off I do have oil inside that compartment as well.  I feel something has gone drastically wrong.

The oil leak around the Hall Sensor - did you replace the round seal on the timing chain over which seals the shaft that turns the HES?  I tried two new seals on this cover and had a small persistent leak there for a year.  I reinstalled the original seal (which was still in the original timing chain cover) and the leak stopped.

As for the ceramic water/oil pump seal, this one took three tries to install properly as well.  Be very careful and do it "by the book".

Woodie wrote:The oil leak around the Hall Sensor - did you replace the round seal on the timing chain over which seals the shaft that turns the HES?  I tried two new seals on this cover and had a small persistent leak there for a year.  I reinstalled the original seal (which was still in the original timing chain cover) and the leak stopped.

As for the ceramic water/oil pump seal, this one took three tries to install properly as well.  Be very careful and do it "by the book".

I did not replace the seal that I think you are referring to.  I still have the original in it as I wasn't sure if I was given a new one with the k100 seal kit.  There wasn't a seal that was exactly the same.  I will look into that.  As far as the water/oil pump seal, I did that by the book and watched a video on youtube that went through the process as I went along also.  Everything worked out as described but now with it running i am must not positive since I have some leaks.

okay I just replaced the cam shaft seal, Its looked similar but not exact but I suspect the one I replaced was the original.  Then I doubled up on the silicone elastic gasket and made sure it was a perfect seating.  I will see if there are leaks tomorrow.  Please no leaks!

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lechicho55 wrote:okay I just replaced the cam shaft seal, Its looked similar but not exact but I suspect the one I replaced was the original.  Then I doubled up on the silicone elastic gasket and made sure it was a perfect seating.  I will see if there are leaks tomorrow.  Please no leaks!

I assume you mean crank shaft

Reverting to the origin of this post, did you notice any trace of coolant or oil at the level of the pump internal leaks output, under the pump?

Reference replacing the shaft seal in the front housing cover:


The seal is usually a Teflon lipped version. This needs to have the inner lip 'set' so that it faces towards the engine. If you push it on to the shaft from the front, the lip will be formed in such a way as to face away from the engine. This is incorrect, and will lead to an oil leak.


Mike

Poupy wrote:

lechicho55 wrote:okay I just replaced the cam shaft seal, Its looked similar but not exact but I suspect the one I replaced was the original.  Then I doubled up on the silicone elastic gasket and made sure it was a perfect seating.  I will see if there are leaks tomorrow.  Please no leaks!

I assume you mean crank shaft

Reverting to the origin of this post, did you notice any trace of coolant or oil at the level of the pump internal leaks output, under the pump?

I am new to this working on engines thing and not entirely sure of what I am doing or the proper terminology. 

I reseat all of the covers and Had the bike running for a half an hour yesterday and there whereat any leaks while running but when I went into the garage today there was a small puddle of oil.  The bike was on the side stand overnight but no leaks when on the center stand.  If there is something obvious to this that I could have missed please help me out.  Or if I just have a leak, no need to explain it to me.

When you look at the engine by under, from where does the oil seem to come?

The leak on the angle only is possibly a false route. You say you ran the bike for half an hour and stopped it on the side stand. It is likely that if you had left it on the central stand the oil puddle would have been there anyway. Anyway, avoid leaving your bike on the side stand. Our Ks do not fancy that, as some oil from the crankshaft then tends to migrate inside the cylinders. The minimum effect is blue smoke when starting the engine after a while.

In order to find leaks thoroughly clean and dry the engine. Then spray the suspect areas with spray talc of your preferred fragrance, place newspaper or paper towel under the bike. You might have to leave overnight on one stand and then change to the other stand. Look for the oil leak on the talc.
Regards Martin.