After sitting about 5 weeks with the smart charger disconnected, my 1995 K1100LT ABS warning lights continue flashing when the bike is underway.  I first thought the battery was discharged enough to trigger the flashing lights.  However, after a charge overnight the condition remains.  (I should add that the bike had no difficulty starting.)  I thought the failure mode would re automatically reset with a battery up to standards, but that hasn't proven true in this case.  The battery was installed this Spring and I believe it to be in good order, so where to go from here?
I've been unable to find the thread that addresses resetting the computer when a fault is detected and then corrected.  Can someone direct me to that thread? TIA

Look here for reset instructions:

http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/abs/abs.htm

Should be an easy fix



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rsrrpbb4kJc

Thanks guys.  I'll try the reset this afternoon.  I hope that's all that's needed.

Well, that didn't work out as I had hoped.  
I did the reset procedure but the ABS lights continue to blink at me.  Now I have a new mystery.  When I use either brake that red triangle blinks once faintly, then remains dark.  All the bulbs in the brake and indicator circuits are lighting on command. 
Since all was working splendidly before I went on vacation, the battery remains suspect.  Even though it's far less than one year old, from day one it seemed to discharge far faster than it should.  Maybe it's time for a load test. On the other hand, the bike starts immediately at the touch of the button.  I'd think that a battery weak enough to cause an ABS problem would also struggle to turn over the engine on my 1996 K1100LT. 
I really dislike electrical mysteries.  

The reset procedure usually takes a few tries and some miles to work

To check if it is the battery after riding for 15 minutes leave in 5 gear while moving and turn the key off then back on. If the light resets it is the battery if not do the flash test and remember it is the offs that you count not the ons . Make sure the reset switch is working and the light stays on for 15 minutes then starts flashing again. If that switch is cactus then you cant reset.

At the end of the document sent in message N°2 there is the procedure to question the ABS brain, in order to know what it considers wrong in its life.

Do it and see the code you get. 

It might be that fixing a fault is needed before trying to reset the fault signal. Specially if the fault reset procedure appears not efficient...

brickrider2 wrote:Well, that didn't work out as I had hoped.  
I did the reset procedure but the ABS lights continue to blink at me.  Now I have a new mystery.  When I use either brake that red triangle blinks once faintly, then remains dark.  All the bulbs in the brake and indicator circuits are lighting on command. 
Since all was working splendidly before I went on vacation, the battery remains suspect.  Even though it's far less than one year old, from day one it seemed to discharge far faster than it should.  Maybe it's time for a load test. On the other hand, the bike starts immediately at the touch of the button.  I'd think that a battery weak enough to cause an ABS problem would also struggle to turn over the engine on my 1996 K1100LT. 
I really dislike electrical mysteries.  

My K1100LT took to doing this too. Bulb contacts were the problem. Bulbs were good, but the bulb holders needed to be cleaned and the contacts tightened up. In the end I swapped out the bulbs and the problem disappeared. also clean the loom to bulb holder spade contacts.

You also mention the battery discharging fast. ABS faults can sometimes do this. Your clock remains live but the draw is minimal and I have left a bike 6 -8 weeks without a bother. Do the battery test and see how that works. But if that's ok I would remove the fuses pop in a meter to check for a heavy draw and remove the relays one by one. If one is faulty you will see an immediate drop in the current draw.

I'd use a 12V LED to read the ABS error code.  (As Rick pointed out, count the number of times it goes off.) Without doing that you're just guessing at what is faulting your ABS.

You LT is very clean and low miles so the ABS switch probably works.  It's very easy to test on an ABS II bike.  Turn the bike on (just on, doesn't need to be running.)  When you press the ABS switch the left flashing ABS indicator in the cluster will go out and the right one will be on continuously without flashing.

My bike passed the "ABS switch" test.  I ran through the reset procedure a few more times with the same result: blinking warning lights.
I re-read the instructions on deciphering the failure codes.  I don't have a source of LEDs nearby (Radio Shack is history) and I haven't seen an analog VM in ages so I think my next effort will be to turn off the blinking lights.  No, I have not assumed it's better to go ABS-less.  It's just that I have a tour scheduled for next week and I doubt very much that I can find the materials to make the LED test light before I leave.  Left as they are, the blinking warning lights will make me nuts over the course of the upcoming tour.  I value the safety the ABS system offers, but I can't see me turning down a Pacific Northwest tour during the favorable weather window of August-September.  It's nice to ride through that lovely part of the world without a lot of rain.
As always, I'm grateful for the help always offered here.  Great much of K-fans!

Mask off the light with some black tape and an hour into your tour you'll have forgotten it
Have a great trip!

Yes, you can certainly use the black tape fix.

ACE and True Value hardware stores still sell analog multimeters.

Places to find a 12V LED:

* Auto parts stores
* Car stereo shops/installers 
* Electronics shops

To make a 12volt LED get an LED from any electronics store, they usually are 1.5v then put a 470 ohm resistor in series and there you have it.

All the big auto parts stores sell 12V LED's these days in the accessory aisle.

click here for analog multimeters sold today


A very cheap model is enough in your case. The precision of its reading is not the main issue, though generally pretty good anyway.

One of the great values of this forum that may be overlooked is the fact that two brains are better than one (5,6, or 7 - better yet!) It never occurred to me than the local auto parts store would have what I needed to make the test instrument. I made up the required tool this morning and the diagnostic readout was 7.  I understand that to be the ABS brain.  Now, does that mean the large engine management computer that sits over the battery on the K1100LT (1996)? Or, is there a separate computer dedicated to control of the brakes?
This could be an expensive problem.... 

The ABS control unit is separate from the Motronic.  It's on the left side under the seat with the letters FAG on it.