I had my first ride in 9 years today. Bought home an old 1992 K1100LT. She doesn't idle smoothly and seems to be just a tad low in rpm and chugs a bit. Has a radio and the screen works though its sun kissed. Has the tell tale signs of the rear main seal leaking and the oil water seal might be on its way out too. Or the chain cover has a leak.
But the ride home once I pumped the tyres up was magic.
How do you open the radio lid?? Is it only via the key??
It has ABS but its been disconnected someplace though all the hardware is still there.
Once I cleared the city traffic the ride was erm brilliant just brilliant.

To take it for a test ride I put my Rossi boots on for the first time in ages. I could not change gear properly and turned around and came back to the owner and parked it. My Left boot sole was flopping off and so I dismounted and in doing so the right sole flung off too. Maybe they've been idle too long.

Rode home in Joggers, a jacket that is way too small, and gloves I haven't wore in an age. The wasps nest in my helmet made me buy another flip up openface helmet. Barely the start of the gear I now apparently need.

Did I tell you the ride home was brilliant, yep it was.

Piccies when the storms pass

Good man!
Great to blow the cobwebs away too.

Absolutely 

welcome back on the road

KPox strikes again  
Good to hear you have a bike that rides on the road Keith.

Well done on the score. How was the ride home.

Well done Keith! Work away at it and we expect to see piccies and attendance on it at the next Loffee meet.

Cheers

well well well , fantastic news Keith

congratulations mate

Great to see the K pox is alive and well. Keith Congrats on your acquisition. Enjoy the ride and the tinkering. Cheers Tom

Thankyou all, Yes the ride home for fantastic I'll have to mention it more often. Shucked away so many woes. I will be looking forwards to the next Loffee meeting.

Well done on your purchase. Your Rossi boots can be resoled by Rossi in Adelaide for much less than new boots. Ring them and find out. At least that will be one thing out of the way.

G'day Stan, I emailed Rossi, they will sell me new soles and I have to go to a cobbler here to have my boots repaired. The old days are gone it seems.

The urethane is the problem, my boots are fine. My soles are fine, the urethane in between actually degrades and becomes crumbs over time. Mine passed that time some years ago, but due to me not wearing them, they were never stressed to come undone until now.

Off to play in the Yellow pages, See if I can spot someone well recommended someplace close by.

It seems Rossi isn't as you beaut as it used to be, they seem to be adopting the sell and sod off sales profile of others.
Gonna miss the "I bought these P32's in 1976 and had then rebuilt last week" that Rossi factory service has died.

Sad to hear that. I had mine repaired by them about 2 years ago.

There's a ride to Nindigully next month ... possible chance to blow some more cobwebs out.

And a few of the Hunter Krew are heading up there Keith to keep you in good kompany.

Get busy on the K.

Cheers

K75cster wrote:It seems Rossi isn't as you beaut as it used to be, they seem to be adopting the sell and sod off sales profile of others.
Gonna miss the "I bought these P32's in 1976 and had then rebuilt last week" that Rossi factory service has died.

Time to switch to Daytonas... except that you'd have to ship them back to the factory in Germany for any repair more than a zip replacement. That sounds ridiculous but each pair is handmade and, unfortunately, has a price to go with it. I've had two pairs of Road Star GTXs and I can safely say they are the most comfortable boots I've ever had. They're solidly armoured to go with it - you can ask my feet and ankles just how good that armour is.

I'm still chasing who might repair those boots and now also checking out new ones just in case. Nindigully is the second weekend in May? I've done 40 minutes on her so far. Hmm I don't know just yet fellas. Must buy some fatter clothing too, my jacket had shrunk over the years. Must be the neglect. May as well buy new gloves and be suited up totally, like a new fairy mid winters eve.

It turns out the Boots maker in Maitland resoles boots, So I took mine in there and he had them ready in a week, So I'm mobile again in boots I'm really comfortable in. I have two new Helmets and open face and a full face now at the ready. A new pair of summer gloves and bike pants to ride in. Just a jacket to get. I have taken the winter liner out of the Jacket to it fits for the time being. Just filled up with new fuel so I'm hoping this will help the bike get over its low rpm at idle. Hmm Pics, I'm still to take some although I think Ed has pics of my bike taken at the Grey Gums Coffee shop. Better figure out the camera and add my own. Topped up the oil so I could see it in the sight glass 1/2 a litre did it. I think it is running rich, how far will the 1100's go on a tank???

I did a test once carrying a small container of fuel on board and ran the tank down until it started to "cough" at 380 kilometres on my 1995 K1100. That tank had been used at normal highway speeds of around 100 km/hr. As a result I never plan to go more than 330 km or so between fuel stops but know that I can sneak out a bit more if I am desperate.

Of course, if you get enthusiastic with the throttle that figure changes dramatically however with our over zealous law enforcement here in Oz that opportunity rarely presents itself.

Keith you might be interested in this link re tyre dates that we were discussing today.

Metzeler tyre info 

Cheers

Thanks for the link Gaz, I'll check out the tyres and see of the back one is close to the 2014 marker on the front. That'll give me three years to ruin them he he

The rear checks out and is a January 2012, so It will be January 2019 as a use by date. Thanks Gaz. 2014 for the front so it's all good

Gaz wrote:I did a test once carrying a small container of fuel on board and ran the tank down until it started to "cough" at 380 kilometres on my 1995 K1100. That tank had been used at normal highway speeds of around 100 km/hr. As a result I never plan to go more than 330 km or so between fuel stops but know that I can sneak out a bit more if I am desperate.

I've run out of gas while not testing before.  I was lucky that by riding with the bike tilted to the left (to get fuel on the side of the tank with the fuel pump) I was able to "cough" an extra mile or two out of the bike and make it to a gas station.

Today I adjusted the bypass screws to lift the idle, removing the Fairing side panel to stick a set of vacuum gauges on to see what's what, I find the front two wont stay stable or sync. So I sprayed them with start ya b'sted and they died a bit with each spray. So I guess that says it all. I need new O rings for the throttle bodies.

So if I'm going in there to replace the "O" rings what else can I expect to need to order?? The tubes were last done about five year ago by the records, well. That is the vac tubes and the vac caps were replaced, but I'd like to order stuff that may be needed when I disturb the throttle bodies from there present home.

I got it to idle at 1000 rpm with the bypass screws out at 1and a 1/4 turns a fair way from the 3/4 turns out it was at.
When I reseat it would you all turn them back in before starting it or let it warm up on an expected high idle??

I am thinking of just ordering it all from Munich Motorcycles, rather than fart about with Brisans, for they seem to have forgotten they ever sold these bikes.

most literature give tank size as 22 ltr/4.8 imperial gallons.On my 1984 rs the tank is 18 ltr/4 imperial gallons.Normal riding gives 50 mpg so for peace of mind fill ups at 180 ish or low fuel light.
Do a tank size test to be sure what ltr yours is  :sleep:Good luck and happy riding

Keith go to Motobins in UK they will be half the price of Munich.

@ Moriarti the tanks are all classed as 22 ltr but I have ever only been able to get 20.3 into any of mine. If you fill the tank without the cap on it will take over 21lt but not 22lt.
The K75c and s have a smaller tank I think about 19lt.

The factory specs say 22L for K100s (and the K75RT which has a K100 tank) and 21L for K75/C/S.

duck wrote:The factory specs say 22L for K100s (and the K75RT which has a K100 tank) and 21L for K75/C/S.

Thanks for the info must admit i didn't fill to max level so room for a Ltr or more maybe,didn't want to overfill just in case

Yep Motobins, I did ring Brisans to see if they had them, but no they will be 10 working days if I place an order. Somewhat shocked when I said no thanks. Really four little O rings and they have to order out for them.

I expect I can get them local what are they 40.9 by 2.5 or 2.9?? 2.1 maybe, I'll pull mine out and see.

My K1100RS, 200000km, daily commuter
(Might look like a LT, it's only the fairing )

Shrinking jackets

this is a common problem...store them for some years... live the good life... and the jackets magically shrink

Check online - ebay is a good source of second hand jackets - (frequently 2XL 3XL) approx $50 up. I have bought 4 jackets so far.

Enjoy the bike

Yep I have had the same issue with shrinking Jackets. LOL

So today I ordered new "O" Rings from Motobins and Munich Motorcycles so I can see who gets here first.

Arlina, that is impressive kilometers on your bike.  Have you owned it from new?

Coming home in the rain tonight I decided conditions were ripe for testing tank volume vs. range.  The red 4l warning light had come on at about 260 kms (I reset my odometer when I fill up) and was reading 280 kms when i left work for the 35 km trip home.  I was at about 305 kms when it started sputtering but I managed to make it to the gas station very close to my house without having to push the bike. 

20l to fill up with the odometer reading 315.  Does that mean I still had another 2l to find in the bottom of the tank somewhere?

To get 22lt in you have to remove the cap so you can fill the airspace and remove the pump. 20 is about it under normal conditions.

Today the Parts form Munich Motorcycles turned up, just before I went in for the arvo shift. Ordered last Tuesday, Tomorrow's Tuesday so that's not too bad from Perth.
Motobins order hasn't arrived yet, maybe Tuesday or Wednesday.
Hope to have the job done by then, That way the parts Motobins has sent me are spares. If I stuff up then the parts are ready to use he he

It runs well Idles smoothly now, but I had the throttle switch disconnected when I set the idle and balance. Is there any talk from the throttle position switch that would effect the outcome?? I have to stick the seat and side panels back on and I can go for a ride again. It's just a concern that the balance may be wrong if the TPI unit wasn't connected at the time of the Idle balance Job.

That's just Idle balance the big brass screws not the actual T/B's balance.

Little things that bug me, I lost the calibration set for the gauges, a little four spigot and line Vac assembly that you use to set the individual gauges as a set. I ended up going to the Auto parts store and buying three "T" piece vac pieces and some tube so I could ensure the four gauges were all reading the same before starting. Does anyone else using dial gauges do this first??

Once dialled in one read 5 points short, so when I balanced, I let that one gauge remain 5 points short when all four were on individual TB's so far so good I hope. Been ages since I had to dial in any multi carb TB bikes.

If you get stuck call Brian or Bruce at Munich, as what they don't know is not worth knowing.
Cheers from WA

I've not been riding much, for I kept kicking the seat trying to throw a leg over the old girl. I reasoned that if I cant get any extra flex out of me then I had best lower the bike. So I put a K100 shockie on the bike and then lowered the trees down the forks to be equal both ends. The herniating experience of lifting the bike on and off the centrestand resulted in me pulling out the old K75 centrestand that had broke some years ago. I cut the legs off at about the 8 inch mark and welded on some 4mm thick angle iron. A heap of fiddling resulted in me adding 8mm of plate to the stops on the centrestand so I can now roll it cleanly on and off the stand. If anyone in future decides to change the K1100 to a shorter ride height I hope this info is helpful.

Presently fiddling with the sidestand so it can be deployed and put up without interfering with the centre stand. Tuning in the little switch actuator at present.

The ride to work and back proved very successful, the lowered bike feels very K75ish it no longer feels cumbersome to wheel about the place. Lowering the bike must have dropped the engine gearbox combo down level with the axles for it rides beautifully and doesn't seem to yaw when coming to a stop, way less bar work to manage it on the road and at intersections. Resting waiting for the lights to change see's me with both feet flat on the ground and the knees with a slight bend, very comfy and stable. 25km in and 25 back out was terrific.

Amazing how confidence and control come back to you when you are comfortable on the bike.

Great to hear the results of your mods Keith.

Look forward to next meet up and check them out.

Cheers

That's good news to me.  I was having a lot of trouble with my K75RT and am now in the process of rebuilding an early model Works shock to lower the rear end along with sliding the fork tubes up in the clamps. 

I put an 1100 centerstand on it a couple years ago, and am concerned about how difficult it will be to deploy.

Hope you can post some photos and some details on how you modified yours.

Point 75 at 220kg the K75 should not pose as much of an issue as the K11, But you simply need to grab a busted k75 stand and shorten it to do what you want, the only real change is that the stand probably wont reach the rubber housing on the exhaust, but that is no big issue.

Thanks for the replies Gents.