1990 K75s
The bike has an after market windscreen that is a couple inches taller that stock, but still, all the usual
wind buffeting and noise. I tried a taller and wider aftermarket w/s and although some what better still didn't do the trick.
I went back to the 1st w/s and ordered the Laminar Lip. These guys are real pros, beautiful product, good instructions, easy online purchase. However, for my application, it is not the magic bullet either.
If I lean down just a bit lower than normal (where I comfortably hold my head) I enter the "quite zone" and no earplugs are needed which is great, but you can stay in that position forever . I truly hate ear plugs!
All in all, not bad in my situation but not what I was lead to believe. BUT, they have a lip for almost every w/s
out there and from other testimonials it can work wonders.
I give it a 6 out of 10 for my situation but the idea holds alot of promise.

What the motorcycle community needs is a Corbin Seats style remedy for high pitched sound and wind buffeting. Something that takes care of 75% of what the manufacture hasn't. Oh if I was a younger man.
There is a fortune to be made.

If only we had access to a wind tunnel rather than testing on the fly!

Wind noise has been my greatest annoyance bar none in 30+ years of riding and if you could custom make a windscreen for every rider and do it at a reasonable cost you would have a license to print money let alone the satisfaction of fixing a nasty problem.

I did have some success on mine by taping a 6inch by 4 inch (approx) to the top of my standard windscreen. It looked horrendous but worked quite well and kind of proved the point the only way to fix the problem was to block rather than deflect the wind.

I too hate earplugs and have tried different helmets to no avail and while the fact my height (6'4") compounds the problem I know there must be a solution.

For the 75S it's always a trade-off between appearance and funtion. The manufacturer could've attached a huge deflection shield, but on a sporty (75S) bike that looks redonkulous...

For the 100RT at least there is the option of putting the electric windshield on. Not cheap though...

Me at least, I love the wind in my face and peeling off all the bugs from my face after a ride
I drive with ear plugs and the face shield flipped up. When it comes to fast riding I flip it down and hide behind the windscreen...

I'd love to try the Laminar Lip though. Just to know how it feels...

Ah...!
Those were the days in my youth riding without a helmet just a flat cap held on by goggles that were rarely used. Head turned to the right to listen to the bark of the mega exhaust. I used to get black heads in my left ear because of it. Smelling all the smells of the countryside.
Belting down the road at 55 mph and overtaking all in sundry, stopping at a transport cafe for a real mug of tea only to overtake the same traffic in their same position in the well seperated line.
Those were the days of real pleasure motorcycling.
I must be getting old.
Ajays.

THE K75S Shield

The second generation of RTs came with a higher windshield and when selling the bike the dealer had to cut it to adjust it to the size of the rider.

87m6chris, if you have to slightly bend down to be in the wind noise comfort zone, you could try to modify the angle of the shield. If the shield needs to be moved only by few degrees you could elongate the 2 side top holes in order to tilt it up.
Just an idea.

Ajays, you're not getting older, just better

I've got a laminar lip waiting for installation. I know they recommend taping it on to try different heights, but I thought I might ask others about their experiences before testing.

I want to raise the turbulent zone by about 3 inches. In terms of seeing the road ahead over the screen, I want to minimise the height of the lip over the screen to about 1 inch. Based on their website, the laminar lip should raise the turbulent zone somewhat even without extra height above the screen.

So, those who have one, how much would you say the lip raises the turbulent zone on its own, without extra height to the original screen?

BTW, I've also read that putting spacers between the original screen mounting points and the original screen raises the turbulent zone by allowing air in under the screen, reducing the negative pressure behind the screen (i.e., raising the air pressure behind the screen), in turn reducing the suction of the air flow downwards behind the screen. See http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/Buffeting.htm for example. I'll try this if the laminar lip isn't good enough on its own.

ricketyclick, my laminar lip is placed very similar to the image above and I have turbulence free zone up to 1" above the lip.
I tried the spacers this spring and thought the windscreen was going to rip off so went back to normal. But your bike is different from mine so you might find otherwise.

Thanks Chris.

How thick were your spacers?

Before drilling into the fairing or the shield, I would recommend to 'dry test' it using some velcro and double face tape. With this solution, you will be able to find the ultimate position.
Just an idea, but worth exploring.

CF

No drilling for this application, but once fitted there is no adjustment, so yes I think that's good advice CF.

My spacers were 1 1/8th inch long and were well supported, but
the K75 probably has the least contact area of any of the series for the windsheild and I brought that down to the 4 mounting bolts only.
A K100 might be different.
You might also think about cutting the seat foam down which will make you sit lower in relation to the wind shield and give you flater feet on the ground depending on your height. I'll hunt through my favorites list and see if I can find the site that describes the best way to alter a motorcycle seat.

It's hard to answer your question as to how much adjustment translates to changes to the wind buffeting.

I experimented with a few different heights this spring. First it was too low, then too high. I now have it basically flush with the top of the stock acrylic. Higher puts the wind over my helmet better but I don't like having to look through it.

I had to take my first tries off with a razor blade and then glued the buttons back on. My last time of gluing I used the glue that auto parts stores sell for rear view mirrors. It is very strong stuff. Or, you can order new buttons from Laminar Lip.

I say all of this to say that you can experiment a bit to get it right. I will admit, though, that there are some scratches on my windshield now that I wish weren't there.

Chris:

I wouldn't want my seat any lower, my knees are high enough as they are when riding, and I can comfortably place the balls of both feet on the ground, heels of both too when stretching a bit.

I was thinking more along the lines of a few millimetres, a centimetre at most for the spacers.

WayneDW wrote:I experimented with a few different heights this spring. First it was too low, then too high. I now have it basically flush with the top of the stock acrylic. Higher puts the wind over my helmet better but I don't like having to look through it.

How tall are you Wayne, and what's your inseam?

ricketyclik wrote:

How tall are you Wayne, and what's your inseam?

I am 6'0" but my height is in my body, not my legs. I have a 32" inseam.

Thanks Wayne. I'm 5'10" and 30" inseam, so would that mean our torso's are the same height? From your avatar it looks like you have the same screen as me. How much do you reckon the LL flush with the top of the screen raises the turbulent zone?

I'm going for a fairly long ride tomorrow, 600 kms, and I was thinking of taping the lip onto the screen with packing tape to try different heights. Do you think packing tape will be enough to hold it on over several hundred kilometres, at speeds up to 90 mph?

Your reasoning on our body heights seems logical to me. The turbulent zone is right at the top of my helmet. As mentioned, I'd like it a little higher but I really don't like looking through it. It seems to distort my line of sight.

I hesitate to advise you on how well tape will work. It might, or.... The other problem is that you are running out of time to let glue set up as well. With our time differences, it may already be tomorrow in your end of the world and you are already on your ride.?? I guess in that situation I would glue it and tape it and resolve to scrape the glue and move the LL later if need be.

It's still the night before here, but winter, the glue won't set. The 3m attachments need to be applied at over 70 F, we haven't had a day that warm for over a month. I'll have to take the screen off and bring it inside to set, once I've figured out how high I want it.

I've taped it up, it seems pretty solid. 1st setting level with top, so I can gauge how much it raises the turbulent zone.

Should be a nice ride tomorrow, if I don't get rained on. See http://tinyurl.com/6ajmyos.

That went well.

My experience was very similar to Wayne's. I found that the top of the LL 2cm higher vertically than the screen was optimal. Any higher and I was sticking my head up into the wind to see over, with the end result the turbulence at the same point anyway. Mind you, having the LL level with the top of the screen was nearly as good as up 2cm, only an extra cm of turbulence raising I reckon.

The LL seems to raise the turbulence level by nearly 2" - from my ear level to an inch and a half below the top of my helmet. A definite improvement, but I WANT MORE.

Next thing to try: spacers at the windscreen attachment points.

getting there rickety ....good luck

Laminar Love...
I was introduced to the laminar lip 1700 miles into a 2700 mile trip this spring. I roade the last 1000 miles wishing i had one on my bike not having even tried it. So when i got home i ordered one. The first 10 minutes told me that i would never ride without one again. I know it is not the end all of be all, but its damn good. Im 6'1" with a 33 inseam. It does all that it claims to do. It does smooth out the air, but if your really worried about that much airflow, buy a rt and put the huge screen on it, and look through the plexy. As for earplugs, i ride with them all the time. the trick is to buy the really soft ones and never to push them in too far.

As for "tuning" the laminar lip.... Start with it as high up as you can possibly mount it before adding spacers. From there you can also adjust the" turbulence generator that comes on the bike ( rs version) to achieve the desired amount of wind.

I hope this helps, and i recommend laminar lip to all who ride.

Joel

is it possible for someone to post up the actual dimensions of the Lip

Its funny. Every time I hear this expression 'laminar lip' I think of it as the end result of talking when you should be listening!

I just about sprayed my monitor with coffee John.
Mind I can think of some it applies to, but not here, on another forum.

ungaas wrote:is it possible for someone to post up the actual dimensions of the Lip

Mine is about 16 1/2" wide and 4 3/4" tall at the narrow part (center). Height at the edges is about 7 1/4"

But, I'm quite sure they make different sizes for different bikes.

Thanks Wayne

Does anyone have experience with the Aeroflow screen? How does it compare to the Lip?

I bought the higher screen from Motobins and it has made all the difference. I used to be 5ft11 but gravity has melted me and the back is not as straight so I look just over the top. The wind hits my helmet
top and with my visor closed it still is a bit noisy, but if I have it slightly open there is no noise. Don't ask me why.
RT

I have a high screen and no lip but get heaps of noise but if I stand up I get far less like heaps less because I get out of the disturbed air stream but when I duck down it is almost silent because there is no air movement so I am wanting to ride without a screen but all the bikes I have on the road have screens.



The helmet is an RJays with all the bells and whistles and I was told after I bought it that they are probably the worst of all and I reckon they are right.

87m6chris wrote:1990 K75s
The bike has an after market windscreen that is a couple inches taller that stock, but still, all the usual
wind buffeting and noise. I tried a taller and wider aftermarket w/s and although some what better still didn't do the trick.
I went back to the 1st w/s and ordered the Laminar Lip. These guys are real pros, beautiful product, good instructions, easy online purchase. However, for my application, it is not the magic bullet either.
If I lean down just a bit lower than normal (where I comfortably hold my head) I enter the "quite zone" and no earplugs are needed which is great, but you can stay in that position forever . I truly hate ear plugs!
All in all, not bad in my situation but not what I was lead to believe. BUT, they have a lip for almost every w/s
out there and from other testimonials it can work wonders.
I give it a 6 out of 10 for my situation but the idea holds alot of promise.

What the motorcycle community needs is a Corbin Seats style remedy for high pitched sound and wind buffeting. Something that takes care of 75% of what the manufacture hasn't. Oh if I was a younger man.
There is a fortune to be made.

I know this is a very old thread but I also recommend another product which raises the turbulence boundary by several inches: the Saeng TA "micro swirl trim". I had it on my Buell, including at autobahn speeds in Germany, and a friend had it on his Harley Sportster - I now have it on my K75 touring OEM windshield.

Saeng is having a sale on these until 31 January.

In my experience, unless you have multiple bikes you only need the shortest length available, i.e. 36 inches.

URL: https://saeng.com/product/micro-swirl-trim

Wind noise and buffeting is caused by the low pressure area behind the windshield, trying to be filled by the high pressure area in front, below and around the sides of the windshield. As you are going down the highway at speed, the air is trying to fill the vacuum behind the windshield. Use one of your hands as you are driving along and move it around the cockpit to establish where the wind is coming into the cockpit area.  Often it is off the sides or sometimes under the screen on handlebar windshield setups.

The best cure is to either go to a shorter windshield, or cut a vent in the windshield or some other method of allowing air to get into the low pressure area behind the windshield. The laminar lip in a lot of cases does help.  I've used them on a few bikes.

Hello all, I use deflector on aftermarket Arizona screen for almost ten years. Its adjustable MRA type: Higher position on highway, lower in the city.
Basic screen is 605 mm. You can check this thread https://www.k100-forum.com/t3793-wind-solution
I am cca 190 cm tall and that combination is really effective. No buffeting, no earplugs needed.
Best regards

Lam Lip works swell on my red RS Down Under. I wear earplugs, sit 175cm tall, have relatively quiet helmets, and found along with the aforementioned, it keeps the airflow tumbling less intrusively than the stock 'screen with adjustable deflector. Plus, it comes off quick smart for cleaning.