As I have mentioned in previous posts to other discussion threads, I'm designing and building circuits to adapt the K100 electrics to aftermarket gauges.

Gear Indicator and Start Enable Board

The TGPI design has gone through a few iterations, with the current version 4.1 being based on a micro-sized Arduino processor.  This design is adaptable because of the on-board computer and can display the gear in a multiple of ways:

• With a numeric digit using a 7-segment 0.39" LED display[/li]
  
• With up to 6 LEDs, each LED representing a selected gear[/li]
  
• With a direct connection to an aftermarket Koso gauge which has inputs for displaying a selected gear[/li]
  
• With up to 6 incandescent bulbs, similar to the LEDs, but for a retro look when placed behind a bezel[/li]
  

As shown in the photo below, there is a separate 7-segment display board with a cable length of 150mm, however a custom length can be provided if required..  The intention with such a short cable is that the board and display will be together in an enclosure.  It is possible that this arrangement does not meet with your intended design.  When ordering, I will exchange information with you to understand how and where the board will get use.  This allows me to tailor the display umbilical cable to a length that suits your build.

The Gear Indicator and Start Enable Board also has circuitry to amplify and condition the speed signal coming off the rear drive. Many modern aftermarket speedometers require the use of an active inductive sensor that outputs large voltage levels (>7 volts) for the meter to work properly.  This usually means adding a magnet and aftermarket sensor to the front wheel to get that signal.  The variable reluctance (VR) sensor in the final drive of the K100 is not capable of reproducing these active signals without help.  The circuit on this board will amplify the weak VR signal from the K100 sensor, making it usable for a range of aftermarket speedometers.  This means one can re-purpose the OEM sensor and avoid adding additional sensors to the bike..  This feature means that you don't have to use the manufacturer's speed sensor and worry about finding a place to mount it.



The overall size of the board is 5cm X 5cm.  The tested board and LED display is $75.00 CDN plus shipping.  

NEW TGPI v5
I have developed the next version of the TGPI board.  This version includes new functionality.  There is a circuit now that will condition the engine RPM signal available on the Black/Blue wire (Pin 16) of the OEM cluster, and make the signal compatible with aftermarket tachometers.  I have also included a more robust power supply onboard along with a resettable fuse and transient voltage protection.  This will result in a more robust reliable board than previous designs.



The overall size of the board is 4cm X 6cm.  The tested board and LED display is $75.00 CDN plus shipping.

Speed Conditioning Circuitry:

If all you're interested in is just the speedometer amplifier circuitry, it is possible for me to build only that function on the board and largely ignore the rest of the components.  The cost is significantly reduced, down to $21.00 CDN plus postage, for that board.

3 Circuit Switched Fuseblock


This board provides three switched 12 volt fused circuits in a compact 5cm X 5cm package for powering accessories that you add to your bike.  The switching relay is provided on the card, which simplifies the installation.  These circuits can handle up to 30A current total (the limit on the switching relay's contacts) and has a LED for power indication.  The tested board is $21.00 CDN plus shipping.

The prices are very close to my costs just for the parts that are used.  I'm making no money on these, but making them available to support the community of K-bike owners.

4-Relay Neutral Detect:  

I have designed a printed circuit board to simplify the construction of the popular neutral detect circuit using four relays.  The board using through hole components which should be easy to source locally in a number of markets.  I was thinking of supplying this design in a flexible way, to meet different budgets and skill levels.

• A completely assembled and tested circuit (first photo)[/li]
  
• A kit consisting of the PCB and all parts ready to be assembled (second photo)[/li]
  
• The raw PCB[/li]
  

The board overall is 5cm X 5.2cm in size. It will take input from the TGPI switch and output a Start Enable signal and an active-low Neutral signal whenever the transmission is in neutral position.

good one rob ....some nice designing there

how are going to mount the gpi ontop of the other circuits ?

there are a few mount positions already in place from the old lcd positioning and decoder board

Charlie, I don`t think Robert`s intentions is that it should be used in the OEM cluster.
But rather as a standalone unit when using aftermarket instruments.

cool thanks inge ...yes i could see the applications for after market fitting ...some good ideas huh ?

charlie99 wrote:...some good ideas huh ?

Shure it is Charlie, for those who want to use aftermarket instruments...............
we all have to somewhere in the future, I`ll guess.

Is there a possibility that the furure instrumentation looks like old but is accurate , effective and has some extra functionality...I am excited for the future.

It probably allready exist in the app store.

can see it now my I apple thingy bluetoothing all the info from sensors....have I mentioned how much I love analog stuff?

Brilliant work Rob a real help to anyone who wants to use a non standard instrument cluster.
Regards,
K-BIKE

Hi Rob,

I'm about to pull apart my '84 K100RS to Cafe/Fighter it.
I've been looking for instrument options and I'm keen on this one

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=510/category_id=518/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd510.htm

Bloody expensive, but very cool! Would I need one of your circuits for starting without pulling in the clutch? Would you post to Australia?
Also, do you know if the OEM speedo sensor can be used?

Yes, it's possible to post a circuit card to Australia.  I have a number still available.  PM me.

Yes, it's possible to use the onboard speed sensor.  Read this thread.

Rob, do you have a site/page somewhere where you show your circuits, when, how they would be used, and pricing. Also, I'm in Texas (US). Would you ship to the US?

Brian in Austin, TX

I was able to prototype the gas gauge last evening because (1) I had some free time (wife's away  ) and (2) I just repaired my fuel level sender.  Here's a picture of the setup.



I bought an Arduino Uno prototyping board to use as the processor.  I realize that I can program the Arduino to perform many of the functions in the gas gauge and  gear indicator circuits combined, plus it gives me huge potential that I can't obtain with dedicated circuits.  The basic indication functionality works.  I'll be adding more as I learn the Arduino programming environment.  Some of the function I'm hoping to add is dampening to smooth out the display due to fuel-sloshing, programmable to accommodate various tank shapes, user programmable reserve trigger point and dimmable LEDs.

Nice job Rob.

Nice job! 
A bit offtopic. if I have instruments from R100 bikes, does it ca be connected to K100 bike?

top stuff rob ...

cheers

VPutin wrote:Nice job! 
A bit offtopic. if I have instruments from R100 bikes, does it ca be connected to K100 bike?

No they wont fit.
The speedo is a cable drive and the K100 speedo is electronic and many of the other things don't work together
Try to get something like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Koso-DB-01R-Multi-Function-Electronic-Speedometer-/331038887393?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d13748de1

They are good quality and will do the job.

hi,I replaced the instruments and I cannot get the speedo and a neutral light to work. Do you have any of the circuits availiable and can you post to Greece? Your gear indicator circuit looks very neat. The speedo I have is the Daytona from digitalspeedos.uk

About neutral light, search "acewell" on this forum...
you might find a couple of threads that could become useful to you.

simosvog wrote:hi,I replaced the instruments and I cannot get the speedo and a neutral light to work. Do you have any of the circuits availiable and can you post to Greece? Your gear indicator circuit looks very neat. The speedo I have is the Daytona from digitalspeedos.uk

Since you've gone aftermarket, the neutral detection circuit was discarded with the original instrument cluster.  This link and the search terms offered by Inge above show articles that describe how to use relays to simulate the neutral detection circuit.

If you attempted to connect the speed sensor from the K100 located on the final drive, you will find that it does not work with your Daytona speedo.  You need a conditioning circuit in between the sensor and the speedo.  Check this thread.  I made a version of this circuit on a breadboard; it's really simple to do.

You need to add a diode to my earlier circuit to keep the N light from coming on every time you pull in the clutch:

http://home.comcast.net/~smithduck/bmw/13tech/gpiemulate/gpiemulate.htm

Thanks for the quick responses, I dont feel alone anymore!!!
 I'll be going to an electronics store and try to get the parts needed.

Hi!
So I was at an electronics store and pick up all the components required to build both the speedo signal amp and the neutral light circuit. The relays are prety easy to figure out but for the LM358 I found a datasheet but still cannot work out which pins I should connect and how. Last time I've built something electronic was with tubes 35 years ago when at high school we were building illegaly AM transmiters to play our music that was banned from the state radio!!! :afro: 


I guess that semi round mark is the top , so these connections are as we are looking the LM358 with the pins pointing down. Now where should the rectified current go, where the yellow wire of the signal, which is the + where the 47ΚΩ and 1KΩ connect, where the ground, and where I get the amplified signal? 

The semicircular depression on the chip matches the one in your pinout diagram.  Pin 1 is labelled on your diagram and corresponds to the upper left pin if you orient the chip the same as the diagram, looking down from the top.  Pins are counted counter-clockwise from one to eight.

The LM358 is a dual opamp but you're only going to use one of them.  Choose one -- let's say the left one in your diagram.  The connections therefore are:
- positive 5V supply to pin 8 (labelled Vcc in your pinout diagram)
- ground (common) to pin 4 (labelled Ground)
- yellow signal to pin 2 (labelled inverting input A)
- junction of resistors to pin 3 (labelled non-inverting input A)
- output to your speedometer comes from pin 1 (labelled output A)

I hope this helps.

Great work Rob, sharing that Knowledge, typical forum attitude.

Hey Simosvog, your pirate radio days were not wasted eh? You will make it work!

Good on Ya we say here in aust.

Awesome! Thank you Rob! I 'll get to work this weekend and hope I'll have some good news to report afterwards.

I am considering removing the OEM cluster in favor of something a little more tidy. I am not concerned with the fuel gauge as mine has never worked, I know how many miles I can go before I'm walking. I just want speed, tach, gear, and the neutral start functions. I thought I was going to buy a Trial tech Vapor but that does not have a gear indicator. Any suggestions on what brand/ type, and what to I have to add/ buy to make all that happen? this a budget operation here so I'm thinking $200 for a speed tach set up, if I can get away with it. This is what I am considering, there is an optional dash kit as well.  http://www.trailtech.net/digital-gauges/vapor/752-4013

Hi

Are these boards still available? i'm interested in the Gear indicator (with speedo/tacho signal conditioning) and neutral indicator boards, for postage to UK.
Can you give current prices, approx postage, how to pay etc.

Thanks

Also interested in buying an all-in-one board if there's a possibility of them still being produced

They are no longer available, but he suggested the BEP 3.0, so I bought one of those.

Looks fairly easy to hook up, and covers most of the required signals, but I haven't had a chance to test it yet. When I do, I'll post comments about any grief encountered.