I want to put a Collector licence plate on my 94 K75S and have run into a problem.  The seat that came with the bike is a Corbin Canyon type with a flip up backrest for the passenger and will not pass the inspection, there are certain items that can be replaced, preferably with OEM but not the seat, it has to be stock or appear stock.  
   After starting this search I have found that it is not that simple!   Have narrowed it down to this as being the seat that came with the bike.
 

   Ebay has some rough ones lots of funky café ones but not what I want, I am also a little leery of the sellers not knowing what fits what.
   Found these at Motobins (my new favorite moto porn site, thanks duck) and was wondering if anyone has had any experience with them.  


   Anyone out there with any ideas or one for sale.

Please post a photo of your moto. The line drawing diagram you've posted is of a low seat. The photos in  both ads you have posted are for standard height seats. You're new to these motos so you might not know what you've purchased.

Also, when you're logged in click on the Profile tab on the Forum page then click on the Signature tab on that page and key in the model and year of your moto so it will show up below every post you make.

Here's a stock seat that will fit on Ebay.ca:
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/BMW-Motorcycle-Seat-Fehrer-BLACK-Dual-Saddle-1987-K100-K100RS-RS-52534534970/223325740237

Laitch wrote:Please post a photo of your moto. The line drawing diagram you've posted is of a low seat. The photos in  both ads you have posted are for standard height seats. You're new to these motos so you might not know what you've purchased.

Correct.  If it currently has a Corbin Rumble like he described then I'm about 99% sure they didn't make a low seat version of that so the bike is probably set up for a standard, not low, seat.

Wow!  What do the cafe hackers do to get inspected?

TTR: The Corbin seat you described with a flip-up passenger backrest is known as a Rumble Seat.

The name comes from rear seats once used in old cars:

Point-Seven-five wrote:Wow!  What do the cafe hackers do to get inspected?

I think the stock seat requirement is only for collector/vintage plates.  In some places the vehicle needs to be more or less stock to get those.

Amazing!  Started this post, came back to the computer a couple of hours later and bang 6 posts problem solved and a little bit smarter then I was earlier even after the second coffee!   Started laughing out loud and Cheri had to come and check on me!   Excuse all the extra photos, I do not get along with this editor! 
 
  Here is my K.


 
   Put my signiture in.

   Thanks for the 'that is a low seat' thing, thought I had it, had figured out it was a standard seat but......

   Bought that seat you found on E-bay duck Thanks!  Do not know how you did it, I had given up scrolling through all the seats but when I go in now it is still nada.
It is actually in the country/no customs!






   In British Columbia there are collector plates for vehicles 25yr and older, pleasure only, cheap insurance and it gets attention, this bike doesn't look old in condition and style so there will something to talk about while filling up.  A vintage plate is for 30 yr and older and you can only drive them on special occasions, never going to be an option for this bike, the plate just does not fit the application.
Not a motorcycle thing!

A lot of vehicles were subjected to period mods at dealerships. So vehicles with period mods can't be registered as collector vehicles seems strange. I am not sure what year the rumble seat was made available so maybe that is the problem.
Regards Martin.

It is a government bureaucrat thing I imagine, I send in pics they compare them to stock photos and stamp. This should do it I am hoping. There are other rules, lots for cars/trucks, one is that the vehicle has to be detailed and cosmetically perfect, read no dents bondo.

The ICBC mafia gives you a break on insurance? How'd they let that one slip through?

Yes, I found you a seat on Ebay.ca since I know the hassle and expense that Canoodian Customs entails. 

A 94 Mystic Red S is one of the nicer Ks ever made.

Time To Ride wrote: This should do it I am hoping.

Good luck. In the meantime, does your center stand have plugs in its tube ends? If it doesn't, thoroughly clean out the tubes, dry them, repaint them or apply a protectant like LPS 3, then insert plugs in them to inhibit corrosion by water infiltration. They are renown among K owners for breaking if neglected. The OEM plugs are still available. If they are plugged, remove the plugs then take a look.

While I love LPS products they are hard to get in OZ and expensive. However when I was a you lad there was a rust proofing called Fisholene. It can also be used as a seabird attractant and might work well attracting fish wives. Fisholene did a good job but I would use a rust neutralizer first and redo it every couple of years. Every couple of years I fill my stand with LPS 3 let it sit then drain let it dry and redo it. There is no reason to throw away the drained fluid it can be bottled and reused. Mark the bottle.

Regards Martin.

duck wrote:The ICBC mafia gives you a break on insurance? How'd they let that one slip through?

Yes, I found you a seat on Ebay.ca since I know the hassle and expense that Canoodian Customs entails. 

A 94 Mystic Red S is one of the nicer Ks ever made.

   Thanks again duck!  would have thought I would look there first.  My search engine puts .ca a ways down the list.  
   You mentioned Motobins for brake lines, I am running a little confused there as well.   So for a complete refresh I need 1 for each disc = 3 and one each for the front and back lever to modulator for a total of 5. Sound right?   Want to place an order with moto bins for the brake lines perhaps, heated grips (a good 3 months added to the riding season up here), Rear master cylinder rebuild kit.
   Yes IcyBicy knocks it back a lot, will pay for some of  my new farkles! 
   I am happy with this bike alright!

Not sure on the K75 ABS but the Spiegler K75 kit for front and rear is four lines.
https://spieglerusa.com/bmw-k-75-s-front-rear-brake-line-kit-51.html

An email to Motobins tech support might help you ensure that you get the correct SS brake lines.

Before swapping brake lines it's a good idea to have 11 & 14mm box wrenches on hand.  Crescent wrenches will work but not as well.

Here's how I do heated grips:
http://bit.ly/kbikehg

And before you buy a rear master rebuild kit, many times just taking it apart and cleaning it can fix a leaky master cylinder:
http://bit.ly/kbrakeclean

Laitch wrote:

Time To Ride wrote: This should do it I am hoping.

Good luck. In the meantime, does your center stand have plugs in its tube ends? If it doesn't, thoroughly clean out the tubes, dry them, repaint them or apply a protectant like LPS 3, then insert plugs in them to inhibit corrosion by water infiltration. They are renown among K owners for breaking if neglected. The OEM plugs are still available. If they are plugged, remove the plugs then take a look.

   Added to the list! Thanks

Laitch wrote:

Time To Ride wrote: This should do it I am hoping.

Good luck. In the meantime, does your center stand have plugs in its tube ends? If it doesn't, thoroughly clean out the tubes, dry them, repaint them or apply a protectant like LPS 3, then insert plugs in them to inhibit corrosion by water infiltration. They are renown among K owners for breaking if neglected. The OEM plugs are still available. If they are plugged, remove the plugs then take a look.

   One plug there goodly amount of rust from road rash, inside looks solid on first quick look.   Plan to go over the bike with ACF50 rust inhibitor electrics as well.  Will clean up the center stand as well, it looks to nasty.
   I like this guy's videos, here he tests rust inhibitors.    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs

Time To Ride wrote:   I like this guy's videos, here he tests rust inhibitors.    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs

Those are penetrating oils for loosening corrosion—not rust inhibitors. Rust inhibitors are coatings like paint, LPS 3, and rust neutralizing compounds applied before painting.

Laitch wrote:

Time To Ride wrote:   I like this guy's videos, here he tests rust inhibitors.    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs

Those are penetrating oils for loosening corrosion—not rust inhibitors. Rust inhibitors are coatings like paint, LPS 3, and rust neutralizing compounds applied before painting.

   Thanks Laitch, you guys have my head pretty full!