I'm in the process of cleaning and replacing all my fuses with LED indicator fuses. In the process of doing this and I spotted these blade circuit breaker fuses with either an auto reset or manual reset. They are too large to go under the OEM cover but the manual reset could be useful for diagnostics either at home or on the side of the road. Has anybody tried these??
Regards Martin.

Yeah I carry a 10A and 20A breaker for that exact purpose and Bert had a thread on it about 18 months - 2 years ago.

I've probably forgotten or missed it.   While I was getting the fuses I found that Jaycar is stocking reusable cable ties. The sales person didn't even know about them, bought two mixed packs one for the bike and one for home. They do come in handy.
Link https://www.jaycar.com.au/releasable-cable-tie-pack/p/HP1217
Regards Martin

Like Rick G, I’ve been carrying them for a few years now for roadside testing if I blow a fuse (like melting the low heat resistor harness for the heated grips if used on low for extended periods).

Cheers

Have you guys tested these?  If you put 12V to one side and ground to the other does it blow?

1. Interesting test on youtube for this fuse

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzzS08A-GfY

I will be ordering some for on the road troubleshooting.

2. I only heard about the Led fuses on this forum (thanks Duck) and they proved very useful when troubleshooting a shorting headstock loom issue at K1Fest last year. ABS light and Temp light on at the same time on my k1 !!. 

3. Gaz (or Duck) did you manage to repair the heated loom issue, I thought using a high wattage resistor might be an option ?

Simon, in answer to (3) in my own case I went with the PWM solution giving me variable control and I'm sure I read up on it from Duck.

I did however assist a friend with setting up a set of BMW heated grips and we obtained a suitably rated resistor and connected it into the standard BMW circuitry in place of the orange resistive wire. We mounted the resistor behind the front fairing clear of any other wiring and where it got good airflow for cooling. In that case the switching and appearance remained exactly as per factory.

I know of possible four solutions to avoiding the heated grip low setting issue:

1) Just cut the orange wire from the switch to disable it.

2) Swap in a load resistor for the factory resistive wire like Gaz did.

3) Use a simple generic flasher relay instead of the factory resistive wire. (This gives you full power half of the time instead of giving you half power all of the time but the net result is roughly the same and doesn't generate excess heat like a load resistor does.)

4) Use a PWM to get variable heated grips.

Thanks Duck some excellent solutions.

I hope you liked the fuse video 

If you are able to do some simple electronic fabrication,you can have PWM control pretty cheap.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-24V-48V-DC-Motor-Speed-Controller-HHO-PWM-RC-Control-Regulator-40A-MAX/163359498774?hash=item2608fc2216:g:YP8AAOSwx6pYrjA0