K1100LT Valve cover

brickrider2 · 1 K1100LT Valve cover Thu Jan 24, 2019 6:51 pm

brickrider2

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I am doing the prep. in advance of measuring valve lash on my 1996 K1100LT. I removed a lot of fasteners on the left lower fairing and arrived at the point where one (apparently) must remove the tip-over bar to allow the fairing bit to come off. The plastic cover on the upper bar end wouldn't budge, and I now have second thoughts as to how the bar itself is removed. Considering my options, the thought occurs to me that there may be enough wiggle room between the valve cover and the fairing lower to allow it to be removed with the fairing lower in place. Is this true? That would be great, as the fairing is probably the biggest headache in checking the valves.

duck · 2 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Thu Jan 24, 2019 7:17 pm

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The plastic cap just pulls out.

Two Wheels Better · 3 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Thu Jan 24, 2019 11:05 pm

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I recall you just prise under the plastic cap (#10) over the nut and threaded rubber mount and out she comes. Perhaps a PO has glued it...?

duck · 4 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Thu Jan 24, 2019 11:09 pm

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The plastic cap just fills the hole in the tube. The nut is farther in and requires a short ratchet extension.

brickrider2 · 5 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Thu Jan 24, 2019 11:35 pm

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I think I'll put some heat on the steel tomorrow. Maybe the cap will then release it's death grip.
Has anyone pulled the valve cover with the left fairing lower in place? Or, will I be the first to prove/disprove that possibility?

Last edited by brickrider2 on Thu Jan 24, 2019 11:58 pm; edited 1 time in total

Rick G · 6 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Thu Jan 24, 2019 11:49 pm

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brickrider2 wrote:I think I'll put some heat on the steel tomorrow. Maybe the cap will then release it's death grip.
Has anyone putted the valve cover with the left fairing lower in place? Or, will I be the first to prove/disprove that possibility?

I didn't try on my K1100 but the K100 and K75 all I did was put something down so as not to scratch the panel then let it dangle on the bar.

duck · 7 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Thu Jan 24, 2019 11:52 pm

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I'd use some pliers on it and twist it back and forth a little. There's "only" friction holding in in there.

And you might want to spray the cap down with silicone or some other lube before putting it back in so it's easier to get out next time.

And you don't need to get that top nut in the tube on super tight when you put things back together. The bolt that holds it is mounted in rubber and costs $44 to replace if you tear the rubber.

brickrider2 · 8 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Fri Jan 25, 2019 12:02 am

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"The bolt that holds it is mounted in rubber and costs $44 to replace if you tear the rubber."
That is consistent with the pricing scheme for the plastic plug. That small bit of design genius costs $15.

92KK 84WW Olaf · 9 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Fri Jan 25, 2019 6:35 am

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DONT put heat on that cap. Its only a friction fit.

The mounting as said is in rubber and its a good way in depending on whether you have the short bar or the longer police one.

Dai · 10 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Fri Jan 25, 2019 9:55 am

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If it won't pull out, then the problem is that it's being held in by rust. WD40 or similar may help (it didn't for me) and I ended up using a mallet and screwdriver to drive it out tiny bit by tiny bit working round the edges. Of course, it then wouldn't stay in because the rust had distorted it so badly. A new one wouldn't stay in for the same reason, even after I'd cleaned out most of the rust. Cue the glue, but the owner took the sensible decision to leave it off.

If the cap is rusted in, chances are you are going to have trouble with the recessed 13mm nut. You will need a 1/4" drive socket and extension bar to get at it as a 3/8" drive socket is just too wide. Soak it with (preferably) Kroil or WD40 and leave it, but expect the nut to sheer off the thread. Have a couple of spare rubber crashbar (tipover! I like that expression) mounts to hand before starting. Whatever happens, put the nut back on with a huge dollop of copaslip.

Point-Seven-five · 11 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Fri Jan 25, 2019 10:39 am

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Once I got the "gentlest of tipover" bars off, I would unload them on an unsuspecting eBay buyer. My experience was that even in a gentle drop those useless rubber mounts break away and the bar then twists around and takes a chunk out of the lower fairing adding a bunch of cost and repair hassle to an otherwise low damage situation.

duck · 12 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Fri Jan 25, 2019 11:01 am

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My name for them is "Parking Lot Bars." They do an excellent job at speeds under 1 MPH.

Point-Seven-five · 13 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Fri Jan 25, 2019 1:04 pm

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I knocked my parked K75RT over in the garage and the right side bar broke it's mounts and took a 5"x6" chunk out of the lower right fairing. Along with the bar mounts that was the only damage. Had it not been for the bar, all that would have happened was a scuffed brake lever and a scratch or two in the mirror.

duck · 14 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Fri Jan 25, 2019 1:19 pm

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I've dropped K1100LTs several times and the parking lot bars did their job and saved the bike from damage - other than the bar itself getting scraped and the mirror getting knocked off. No mounts broken. They're also great for riding pegs.

K1100LT Valve cover AjAH6JE

When 2Vs go down on the right side the brake lever, due to leverage, frequently breaks the right peg plate.

Laitch · 15 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Fri Jan 25, 2019 2:30 pm

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Dai wrote:If it won't pull out, then the problem is that it's being held in by rust. WD40 or similar may help (it didn't for me). . . If the cap is rusted in, chances are you are going to have trouble with the recessed 13mm nut. You will need a 1/4" drive socket and extension bar to get at it as a 3/8" drive socket is just too wide. Soak it with (preferably) Kroil or WD40 and leave it,

My favorite remedy for parts in this type of situation is a product like this.

Point-Seven-five · 16 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Fri Jan 25, 2019 3:18 pm

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Regarding the brake ever and footpeg plate. I have found that the saddle bags do a better job of protecting it than the "engine protection" bars.

Dai · 17 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Fri Jan 25, 2019 4:57 pm

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I was trying to think of a frozen nuts joke but I can't be bothered... Razz

Two Wheels Better · 18 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Fri Jan 25, 2019 5:32 pm

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Dai wrote:I was trying to think of a frozen nuts joke but I can't be bothered...

Two Wheels Better · 19 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Fri Jan 25, 2019 5:36 pm

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Dai · 20 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Fri Jan 25, 2019 6:14 pm

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Laitch · 21 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Fri Jan 25, 2019 7:35 pm

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Not for personal use, even in the State of California. Laughing

brickrider2 · 22 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Fri Jan 25, 2019 7:58 pm

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I turned my Harbor Freight heat gun on the bar at the area surrounding the plastic plug. The plug yielded and I pulled it free without destroying it; all is well. cheers

I had no problems with the removal of the protection (?) bar.
I learned that not only is the upper fastener rubber mounted, but those on the underside are too. That's a curious design. The bar is to flex when stressed? Shear at those mounting points?
I'll certainly use care when I torque the fasteners again. I can see how one could easily make an expensive mistake there.

Point-Seven-five · 23 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Fri Jan 25, 2019 9:01 pm

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The bar mounts are designed to break away when the bike falls on the bar. This is to prevent damage to the oil pan that could be caused by the bar's fasteners tearing chunks out of the pan in a fall down.

I guess they figured it was better to ride home with a busted up fairing than with a hole in the oil pan and no oil.

brickrider2 · 24 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Sat Jan 26, 2019 8:59 pm

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I rolled the K1100LT out into the sun and managed to measure the valves on the beast this afternoon. The result was not what I'd hoped for. I'll be pulling both exhaust and intake cams, as the no. 1 intake valves are at .10 mm; the no.4 exhaust valves are at .20 mm. I found that every other valve is at the bare limit of the specs. This is going to be an expensive service. MotoBins seems to have the best price for the required buckets at about US $25. I suppose I'd best buy a lot of them, as I don't fancy doing another valve service anytime soon. With them all measuring tight or tight-ish, there seems to be no opportunity to swap them around from valve to valve.
This bike came out of a collection of about 30. Consequently, the previous owner rarely rode it. It appears to me that, at 24 K miles, this is the very first valve service the engine has had. The spark plugs certainly look like they were never before changed or cleaned. I'm surprised it ran as well as it does.

Point-Seven-five · 25 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Sun Jan 27, 2019 10:54 am

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Before you buy a bunch of valve buckets, pull the buckets that are in there now. With any luck, several will be usable on other valves.

brickrider2 · 26 cam chain tension Sat Feb 02, 2019 5:04 pm

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I have finished the adjustment of the valves on my 1996 K1100LT. Well, "finished" needs to be qualified. The valve lash is set, but I cannot finish the project due to the cam chain tension. It's too tight to permit refitting the intake cam sprocket. I consulted the Haynes service manual and discovered there is a special tool for releasing the cam chain adjuster's tension. Of course, I don't have that Crying or Very sad

Can anyone suggest a workaround? I've spent a good deal of time pushing here and there with a screwdriver without gaining any movement of the adjuster. I'm in a real pickle now, with the valves exposed and no way to move the bike to the dealer for help.

duck · 27 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Sat Feb 02, 2019 5:41 pm

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Did you take the bung out of the front middle of the timing cover and depress the cam chain tensioner prior to removing the cam sprockets?

The purpose of the BMW special tool is to keep the cam chain tensioner depressed while the cam chain is off. If you don't then it springs up and you cannot press it back down because it is ratcheted.

Pretty sure you'll need to pull the timing cover and need the BMW special tool to keep the tensioner depressed when putting the timing cover back on.

duck · 28 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Sat Feb 02, 2019 6:02 pm

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You can get around needing the BMW special tool to keep the cam chain tensioner depressed if you use a bit driver thusly:

K1100LT Valve cover 4valve3

duck · 29 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Sat Feb 02, 2019 6:09 pm

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Max BMW has the cam chain tensioner tool available here:

https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsDetails.aspx?source=catalog&diagram=ST_11%202%20640

Point-Seven-five · 30 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Sat Feb 02, 2019 6:31 pm

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Crap! When I installed the head and cam chain on my 16V K100 I didn't use any special tools, and I can't for the life of me recall going into the bung to mess with the tensioner. I want to say that I installed the chain and the guides, and then put the compressed tensioner on and let it expand before installing the cover. I'm pretty sure it wasn't that difficult that I would remember having a problem with it.

But, who knows? It was two(or was it three?) years ago, and I'll be darned if I can recall what I had for breakfast yesterday.

brickrider2 · 31 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Sat Feb 02, 2019 7:06 pm

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I seem to be making my fair share of mistakes during this valve adjustment project. One major one that I now recognize was my belief that the K1100 engines are just smaller versions of the K1200 engine. I watched the YouTube video of valve adjustment on the K1200 and assumed the chain adjuster mechanism was the same. Big mistake. Second big mistake was not dealing with locking the adjuster prior to pulling off the cam sprockets. Now I'm in uncharted waters.
Questions: if I pull the front cover (of the cam chain) do I need to drain the engine oil first? If I pull the cover and remove the adjuster I assume I'll gain the chain slack I need to refit the cam sprocket; can the adjuster be manually ratcheted down so I can then bolt it back in place prior to refitting the cover?
Having spent a lot of time peering into the little access hole in the front cover, I'm not sure what the nut-driver can do by way of getting me out of this mess. I poked and prodded a lot with screw drivers and accomplished nothing.
This adjuster is a mystery to me. The Haynes drawing has not enlightened me a bit. study

It seems clear that there is no hydraulic system in it, so it's therefore a mechanical (spring loaded) thing?
I'd really prefer to skip buying the OEM tool, but thanks for the link, Duck! I hope this is the first and last K1100LT valve adjustment I ever do.

duck · 32 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Sat Feb 02, 2019 7:15 pm

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The bit driver thing won't help you now. That was for others' future reference.

The cam chain tensioner is spring loaded, not hydraulic.

I don't think you need to drain the oil as the timing cover is above the oil level that you can see in the sight glass. There may be some that leftover drops of oil in there but you won't get a flood.

I have the BMW special tool but I will only loan it out for a $200 deposit. Why so much? Because I want it back. Over the years I've loaned out far too many tools that were never returned. A deposit of twice the retail price is a good motivator for people to return things.

Rick G · 33 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Sat Feb 02, 2019 8:07 pm

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Point-Seven-five wrote:Crap! When I installed the head and cam chain on my 16V K100 I didn't use any special tools, and I can't for the life of me recall going into the bung to mess with the tensioner. I want to say that I installed the chain and the guides, and then put the compressed tensioner on and let it expand before installing the cover. I'm pretty sure it wasn't that difficult that I would remember having a problem with it.

But, who knows? It was two(or was it three?) years ago, and I'll be darned if I can recall what I had for breakfast yesterday.

No NOT Crap if you had to replace the chain then the front cover was off so you can remove the tensioner and reinstall it after the chains are on the sprockets. If you don't remove the front cover then you do need to use the special tool or Duck's idea with the screw driver (which I tried with limited success).
I made a tool by getting a short bolt, grade 5 or 8.8 so it can be drilled, with the correct thread and drilled a small hole as far off centre as possible and put a pin through the hole. In effect I have the same tool but not quite as pretty.

Point-Seven-five · 34 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Sat Feb 02, 2019 8:14 pm

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That's it! I did mine with the cover off. Easy peasy, remove the two screws holding the tensioner, compress it, and reinstall it. Put the cover back on. Adds what, about 45 minutes to the job and saves $114 or thereabouts for special tools.

Seems I've seen that home made tool someplace before. The Clymer manual?

Now if I could remember what I just had for supper...

brickrider2 · 35 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Sun Feb 03, 2019 1:37 pm

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Okay, it's off with the cam chain cover today. Since I've made a number of bad decisions in the course of this work, let me err on the side of extreme caution now and ask what is probably a silly question. Is it necessary to separate the Hall sensor unit from the front cover before I remove the latter? It appears that I can just unbolt the cover (with the Hall unit attached) and swing it to the side in order to access the chain tensioner. What could possibly go wrong? K1100LT Valve cover 652573

Point-Seven-five · 36 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Sun Feb 03, 2019 3:05 pm

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The slotted cup will not fit through the seal in the cam chain cover. I know this because I am very familiar with someone who unsuccessfully tried to remove the cover with the cup in place.

duck · 37 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Sun Feb 03, 2019 4:40 pm

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Point-Seven-five wrote:The slotted cup will not fit through the seal in the cam chain cover. I know this because I am very familiar with someone who unsuccessfully tried to remove the cover with the cup in place.

+1

It's been a while since I took the front of an engine apart but if memory serves I think .75 is correct that the timing cup needs to be removed to get the big timing cover off.

There's also some special partial washers that you need to pay attention to when removing/installing the HES.

Two Wheels Better · 38 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Sun Feb 03, 2019 4:53 pm

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Also best to disconnect the two wires that go from the OP switch and H2O sensor below decks, and remember to have a fresh tube of Drei-Bond or favourite other anaerobic silicone sealant. I mark the HES so it'll go back right where you took it off. Sometimes the front crankshaft seal is disturbed and will leak from removal on. That's a whole 'nother story if it needs to be replaced: pill bottle to the rescue!

brickrider2 · 39 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Sun Feb 03, 2019 5:50 pm

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This is where my bumbling has gotten me to. The HALL assembly is off and I'm able to see a "cup" with a large-ish hex head bolt in the center, with three small hex heads around the perimeter. These three small ones are to be removed (only)? It seems the larger hex head, if moved, may also move the cam chain.
The two wires that are metal clipped to the front cover have zero slack. I don't see how pulling them from the clip will gain anything.
As for the two semi-circle washer from the hall unit, I never noticed them when I removed the hall plate, but see them now where I laid the small screws. I assume that they fit under the other (complete circle) washers.
Gasket sealer I have. It seems that's the only thing I'm confident of at this point. scratch

Rick G · 40 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Sun Feb 03, 2019 7:18 pm

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You'll be OK what could possibly go wrong K1100LT Valve cover 44271

92KK 84WW Olaf · 41 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Sun Feb 03, 2019 8:23 pm

92KK 84WW Olaf

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HES T cover goes on a gasket? Does on my K100s, I bought a few of them when I was getting them.

brickrider2 · 42 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Sun Feb 03, 2019 9:38 pm

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True to my personal custom, my extra 45 minute job to remove the front cover consumed the entire afternoon. Now that I've removed the HES, the front cover, the chain tensioner and fitted the cam sprockets, it all seems so clear. Rolling Eyes

The Hall sensor was a particular puzzle. From my vantage point on the side of the motorcycle I couldn't see the cut out on the cup, so I didn't understand how the thing even worked. Once off it was clear and things made sense. The front cover in now back in place. (As an aside, I think the factory gasket goop on the front cover was a mix of one part goop to one part super glue!) Tomorrow after the LocTite 515 sets up I'll torque the fasteners.
Next up is changing out the 23-year old brake lines. I can hardly wait for the thrill of bleeding my first brake system with ABS. bounce

BTW, there is a gasket under the HES cover on my bike.

Last edited by brickrider2 on Mon Feb 04, 2019 11:53 am; edited 1 time in total

Dai · 43 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Sun Feb 03, 2019 9:41 pm

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Lots of fun to come...

duck · 44 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Sun Feb 03, 2019 10:40 pm

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brickrider2 wrote:Next up is changing out the 23-year old brake lines. I can hardly wait for the thrill of bleeding my first brake system with ABS.

This is for an RS but pretty similar to an LT.

http://dws.x10host.com/11tech/94-96_K1100RS_Galfer_Brake_Line_Install_V1.2.doc.pdf

brickrider2 · 45 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Mon Feb 04, 2019 1:11 am

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Thanks Drake. Maybe that can keep me outta major trouble. Maybe....

duck · 46 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Mon Feb 04, 2019 1:23 am

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Unless you want to violate a cardinal rule of wrenching by resorting to crescent wrenches get 11 & 14mm open end box wrenches before doing the brake lines.

92KK 84WW Olaf · 47 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Mon Feb 04, 2019 6:23 am

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duck wrote:Unless you want to violate a cardinal rule of wrenching by resorting to crescent wrenches get 11 & 14mm open end box wrenches before doing the brake lines.

Very sound advice indeed.

Dai · 48 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Mon Feb 04, 2019 7:56 am

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FWIW I use 6-point spanners for that game. As you're replacing the lines, you might want to consider cutting the hoses off next to the fittings so you can get a socket (box wrench?) directly over the old fitting. I'd also strongly recommend using Dowty washers rather than copper washers when fitting the new lines - they seal a lot better than copper.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dowty-Washer-10mm-M10-Spare-Replacement-gasket-10-pack-R-M-Fits-PSR0108/311920331869?hash=item489fe68c5d:g:HxIAAOSw54xUXNRH:rk:2

0

My favourite storey about Dowty washers arose when I was making brake lines and a wiring loom for a Kawasaki trike. I'd bled the front brakes and made sure they were well up to pressure. A couple of days later I was walking passed the trike and I knocked the front brake line next to the master cylinder. I was horrified to realise it was loose; I hadn't finished tightening it up after I'd positioned it, but there was not a drop of hydraulic fluid to be seen. A really good squeeze confirmed no leakage and no softening of the brakes. Had that been a pair of copper washers, it would have p!ssed everywhere.

92KK 84WW Olaf · 49 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Mon Feb 04, 2019 8:20 am

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Dai

Not only would it have pissed everywhere, probably a brown trouser moment somewhere along the way too.......impact, driver.

duck · 50 Re: K1100LT Valve cover Mon Feb 04, 2019 10:41 am

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The problem with those Dowty washers is that they're not metal so they don't last. I tried those years ago and am of the opinion that they're crap.

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