Hi,

I have now started wiring my BEP + acewell speedo on my 1992 K1100LT. I want to use the original speed sensor and I have a floater in the tank. 

Posting som picture to show how I wired and need help with the rest of the wiring.

See text over the pictures below for info.


This is what I have wired so fare:




This is the fuel wire, what to do with this? 



Should this only connect to the RPM pin on the BEP (why is there 2 wires in one)? Have read some talking about a grey wire, don`t have any grey wire except for the grey wire for the Neutral light (??) 




This the Speed sensor, what should I do about this wires, when I want to use the oem sensor?



I have the wiring on the right side







BEP 3.0 wiring diagram


Kind regards.
Jarle

You're kind of going off in the wrong direction with your BEP configuration.  Follow Maru Labs' instructions for connection your Acewell 2853.  Cafe4racer.net has a download section with manuals for various gauges.  The Acewell 2853 is not there specifically but there are a couple of other Acewell guides available.  I assume the wire colours are the same but you'll have to double-check.  The BEP is taking care of conditioning the speedo and RPM indicators for your gauge.  Discard your speed sensor in the photo [not literally].  It is no longer required.

As for the fuel sender, you will have to wire that in separately from the BEP.  The signal for the sender is found on the connector for additional instruments under the tank midway along the right side of the frame.  You will probably have to invert the signal from the sender.  I've described this in a K100-forum post:  https://www.k100-forum.com/t9265-messing-with-the-in-tank-fuel-sender

robmack: What do you mean by me going off in the wrong direction with the BEP?  I have seen all the instructions tha cafe4racer has (read the many times). But these last wires, i`m still unsure how to to do wire. That`s why I`m posting her for help/pictures. Are you saying that I don`t have to wire the RPM and Speed wires? And to follow your link for the fuel wiring? 

Thanks in advance.

@robmack has pretty much outlined what you need to do

On the Fuel Level sensor you will NOT use the BEP3 - you just need to connect directly from the Fuel Level sensor signal at the auxiliary connector described in his post (Yellow Wire) - however you do NOT need to invert the sensor for the 2853 as described in that link (which is otherwise a superb guide potentially for other gauges)
Be sure to note that you are NOT using the wire already at the instrument connector.
So that signal will come DIRECTLY from that wire and go DIRECTLY to the Blue wire input for the 2853 without going via the BEP3
Everything else will just connect directly from the instrument to the output terminals of the BEP3

You will not be using the supplied Hall sensor that came with your gauges - you will be connecting up as per the diagram below to read the speed out of the BEP3 using the OEM speed sensor from the rear hub.
Similarly for RPM

(In the diagram below it says to swap the two wires noted - you can ignore this for your BEP 3 - I did this simply because using @robmack TGPI board and the upper set of signals came direct from harness while the lower came out of the TGPI)

Jakey wrote:robmack: What do you mean by me going off in the wrong direction with the BEP?  I have seen all the instructions tha cafe4racer has (read the many times). But these last wires, i`m still unsure how to to do wire. That`s why I`m posting her for help/pictures. Are you saying that I don`t have to wire the RPM and Speed wires? And to follow your link for the fuel wiring? 

Thanks in advance.

What I mean is that it appears that you are trying to install Acewell-provided accessories in addition to the BEP.  Am I correct?  If I am wrong, then I take back what I wrote.  But I believe the speed sensor in picture #4 came with the Acewell and not with the BEP.  It is not necessary to use that component and that is the change in course I wish you to take.  The BEP take the K100 speed sensor in the rear drive, amplifies and conditions that signal and outputs it on Pin 23 "SPD".  The Acewell's Connector "A" Green wire plugs into that output.

Picture #1:  Please don't leave so much bare wire showing above the BEP connectors.  Ideally, crimp on some straight pin connectors.
 
In a pinch, make the end of the wire straight and tightly twisted, then tin the end with solder and cut it off to a length that permits the wire to be inserted into the plug with no lead exposed, about 5-7mm.

Picture #3:  It appears that this wire is the RPM input lead going to the Acewell Connector "A" Yellow.  It has two different ends (male 1/4" spade and bullet) to accommodate  different motorcycles.  In your case, you will snip off the connectors, form the straight wire I described above and insert it into the BEP pin 24 "RPM".

To be clear on the instructions D'Ecosse wrote, in picture #2, connect the Yellow wire from the Connector for Additional Instruments to the Blue wire in that picture. Completely ignore the Black wire. It is a ground return wire.

The other thing not covered by the BEP3 is the requirement for the charging wire (you cannot simply use the Hazard light for that purpose)

You need to connect the BLUE wire into the Instrument panel connector via a 50 ohm 5W resistor to the Green/Black Ignition Power line
If you do not do this, your alternator will not charge properly at low rpm.

If you wish to have some type of indicator for your voltage/alternator status I would recommend this device
http://www.sparkbright.co.uk/sparkbright-eclipse-battery-voltage-monitor.php

(note that he offers custom programming - I would suggest that you get the 'green' condition threshold to be 13.0 rather than 13.2V - on the BMW the voltage is very close to the 13.2 threshold so it would be better to just set the value at 13.0)

You could also connect that device directly at the same connector where you pick up the Yellow Wire for the Fuel Level - connect to the Green/Black and the Brown wires

Here you go - this is more applicable for your situation
(Again however you can select whichever warning signal* of your preference for the Hazard alarm e.g Choke warning - *it must be a 'negative' signal)

Be careful to note that (for some strange reason!!!) Acewell changes the colours across the connectors (you can see this in your original Acewell H3-1 diagram from your opening post) - be sure to match the colours on the RIGHT side of the diagram into the BEP3 module

Hi again, thanks for all replys. I have delayed (exposed?) the electrical issues to the last. But now it`s the only problem left. So I started today to wire the last few wires. But after wiring I took a look on the last post from:  D'Ecosse and got a little confused because of the manual that I got with the speedo. If the last post i correct than I have been wiring wrong.

This is how I have wired:

GND - (black) frome ace to GND on BEP
Clock Power (brown) from ace to BAT on BEP
Speed (white) from ace to SPD on BEP
Switch Key (red) from ace to SWP on bep
Fuel (blue and black) from ace is not wired because i haven`t figured that out (delayed to the end)
RPM (yellow) from ace to RPM on BEP

Indicator right (green) to indicator right on BEP
Engine oil (orange) from ace to OIL on BEP
Neutral gear (gray) from ace to Neutral on BEP
Hazzard warning (purple) from ace to <> on BEP (thought it was that but now I understand it`s a warning light. Any sugestion on where to wire to
Main beam (yellow) from ace to High beam on BEP
Left indicator (brown) from ace to Left indicator on BEP.

Is this wrond wired? Can someone correct it if so? 


Hazzard warning from ace should I wire that to WRN on BEP or where should I wire? 
Should the Clock power from ace (brown) be wired to ALT (alternator) on BEP?

Thanks in advance  Much epreciate! Hope you understand my english

My sincere apologies _ I must have created confusion by not transposing the wiring colours correctly

When I look at your 2853H-1 interconnect diagram, that is different from the one we had
(I don't know why Acewell changes the colours from one connector to the other side - it just adds confusion!!)  

So copying the colours from the diagram for that you supplied in the opening post this should be the correct diagram
You can check if the colours from the Acewell side to the Pigtail Side do indeed transpose as per the diagram you posted and now also this one



Just to clarify - when you list the colours from your post above - you are using the wire colours out of the Pigtail connectors, correct??
It appears to be out of the pigtails so your wiring seems to be correct

For the Fuel, Blue wire (just ignore the Black wire in the original 2853h-1 interconnect) connect this blue wire directly to the yellow wire for the OEM BMW accessory connector
(you should find that connector under the tank area, about half-way on the left side of the main frame spine)

For the Hazard (Purple Wire) you could use EITHER the CHK (choke) or TMP (Overtemp) would be my suggestions as most useful - I think the overtemp is probably good from engine safety.

No - do not wire the Brown wire to the ALT output.
See my post #6 for how you will need to wire the Alternator Blue wire (which is on the INPUT side - OEM connector).
(I honestly don't know if the BEP3 already has the correct provision for this - have not been able to see a BEP3 internal schematic)
You can leave the Blue wire (it's already on the OEM connector going into the BEP3) as is for now - but check the voltage when you start the bike
If the generator does not work, then you need to add the resistor described in my post above

* Edit - When I look at the BEP3 documentation, it does say that the ALT output IS a negative output to the instrument - so I must assume that there IS provision inside the BEP3 for the alternator charge function to work correctly
So try this first - just connect the Hazard - Purple - to the ALT terminal on the BEP and see what happens
It SHOULD light when you turn on ignition and then go out after you start and raise the rpm above idle.
Also check the voltage on the battery to know that it really IS charging properly
ONLY wire per post #6 if it does NOT work as per this edit
(you can still choose between ALT or CHK or TMP as is your preference for this warning light)

hehe i`ve studied it good that`s why I posted excactly how I read and how I have Wired. Thanks for the updated diagram  



I will correct my wiring and use purple (Hazard wire to TMP on BEP  


About the fuel, oh I have misunderstand I thought I had to open the the tank and add it to the fuel sender inside, that`s why I have delayed that. Thanks again.

If I understand the english correct the Pigtail is the one you connect to the acewell harness coming from the speedo? If so it`s the Pigtail connector colours I`m mention.

The clock power cable (brown) You wrote instant power. Should I wire it to ALT (aletrnator) on BEP?

See my edits*  for the Purple wire

Clock power = Constant power = BAT

This excerpt from the BEP3 manual suggests that the correct provision for the Alternator is already included inside the box
And also that the output is a '-' (negative) signal which matches the requirement for the Acewell Hazard Light
So I think it should be fine if you just connect that purple wire to the ALT terminal.
(But still check the voltage after you start as described earlier to be sure)

Thanks for reply  

I have now inspected the electrical. But have some question.

Nr. 1
The GND (ground) on BEP nr. 1 on the right side. Should that be wire frome Acewell to ground on frame or only to GND on BEP or both? (I have no both).

Nr.2
I have wired it all up correctly (should be) the Neutral light has always worked (when wiring earlier). But after wiring now and fired up the bike it dissapeared. And does not go on. Have checked the oem cable and nothing wrong. So thinking it`s maybe something inside the BEP?

Nr. 3
I wired the purple wire to engine temperature but when i fired up the bike, the warning light, lighted up.

Nr. 4
RPM works, speedo show speed but incorect speed (way to high), lights works, charging works, fuel level works.

So what can be wrong? 




This is inside the BEP, I have switched the blue (enable/disable LED-blinkers). Should I enable anything else? 




This is how I wired right now (disconected the purple wire because of the warning light, was lighted  up. And the brown wire on GND is just temporary for testing the speedo



 I really appreciate the help I have received

You won't be using the BAR output from the BEP3 nor the choke or bulbtest features
What is the 'speed stabilization' switch for? There is nothing in user manual about this.  
I suspect it may for the rpm for different gauge types?


#1 You should only need to connect anything on the Right Side to the Acewell - so the Ground wire from your Acewell - which is BLACK - should go here.
It should not be necessary to also connect this to your frame.

#2 With the BEP3 we were using originally the Neutral did not work either - I had though the bike owner had damaged the BEP3 as had some serious wiring errors before I became involved; so now I am not sure that the Neutral works properly in the BEP3? But you say it did work initially? Disconnect the Gear Position Sensor connector (behind right side cover) and check the BROWN wire on the side going back into main harness side (not to the sensor itself) is connected to ground - check for short between the brown wire and frame. You can also measure into the sensor itself - when transmission is in Neutral, all three yellow wires should measure 'short' to the brown wire.
If both of these tests are confirmed, then everything up to the BEP3 is good.
When you measure into the sensor itself, if any of the three yellow wires does NOT read short to the Brown wire, then you have a problem in the Gear Position Sensor (it may need to be cleaned)

#3 I'm not sure what is going on with the Overtemp - try the Purple on the ALT signal and see what happens with the Hazard light.

#4 Did you program/calibrate the Acewell? An approximate setting for the speed value is 2000 and the number of pulses per revolution is 6. That should get your speed quite close. (the 2000 value is the circumference of your rear tire in mm) You can change the 2000 number as required (depending on your tire size) to get the speed number to be accurate.

Thanks again. I will look into it later this week. And post a update