My new-to-me K1100LT finally has been delivered.  With no small dose of optimism, I bought it on fleabay.  The pix looked great; less than 22K miles on the clock; complete compliment of luggage; I couldn't say no.
After nearly two months, it was delivered.  It arrived dusty and with a wet right front disk, but other wise it seems to be exactly as the former owner described it.  I'm a very happy guy! 
I sold my 1985 K100RS after I dropped it a couple of times.  I decided I was too old and decrepit for such a heavy bike.  Seller remorse soon overtook me and I began looking about for a replacement.  Now, I'm the owner of a machine that is substantially heavier.  This could be my downfall, but the wide bars and comfortable ergos suggest otherwise. 
I have no service history on the bike, so I aim to go through it from stem to taillight.  Oh, and the tires... it appears that, despite loads of tread, they may have come over on the Mayflower.  
Let's see if I can post some photos.

A good comment on the tyres so get rid of em fast. Hard to know what to suggest. I use Bridgestone BT45 but the guys use others too.

I have a few Ks and the K1100LT is the heaviest but is better to manage. I am still getting used to it but after a 230 mile burn yesterday with my son on his VFR800 I concluded it uses 10% less fuel and that he can't lose a K1100LT trailing him. I have well over 10k miles on it since last October.

I have let the K1100 over too. My back up is to acquire spare fairing panels etc and the stock is almost in place. Cheap until you are looking for them. The big thing though is I found the K1100 a lot easier to pick up. But as with all Ks you need to choose parking spaces very carefully.

Since I got the K1100 in October its got its 2nd set of tyres, replaced front and rear discs/pads, clutch cable [I do that cable on any bike I get] and various other bits. At 22k miles yours is good but before you use get new exhaust mounting rubbers to prevent it cracking.

Kongrats.

Just be very careful with it until you get used to it. K1100LTs are pretty dang topheavy and once they get a few degrees from upright and beyond their tipping point there is no stopping one from taking a nap.  All you can do then is get your leg out of the way and do what you can to slow the descent.  Using only the rear brake in tight parking lots and U-turns is important on a K1100LT.

A K1100LT is a great bike for use in Idaho since you don't have a helmet law there.  I've been known to ride a K1100LT over to Lolo Pass and back just so I can ride without a helmet for a few hours.

Hi Olaf,
I've a number of years experience with those Bridgestone tires, so I think those will be my choice.  I do appreciate the performance of radial rubber on another bike I own, but I doubt I'll be scratching my way around curves with the portly K1100LT. The BT-45 tires will be fine.
I failed miserably in my attempt to post some pix of the new steed, but she seems to be identical to yours.  Red, luggage, they are siblings, if not identical twins.
Under the cover of dust, the bike really does look new.  
I'm aware of the issue with the one-piece exhaust system, so I will certainly replace the rubber shock absorber thing.  There was recently a comment posted on some thread or another about fitting a hose clamp/jubilee clip on the pipes, but I didn't quite understand where or why that would help prevent cracking.

The cracking of the header pipes was supposed to be caused by exhaust resonance. A police force in the US found that by fitting a Jubilee clip around the header pipes the frequency of the resonance was altered. Bikes fitted with the Jubilee clip did not experience the cracking. I found the article by accident years ago but I have been unable to find it again.
Regards Martin.

MartinW wrote:The cracking of the header pipes was supposed to be caused by exhaust resonance. A police force in the US found that by fitting a Jubilee clip around the header pipes the frequency of the resonance was altered. Bikes fitted with the Jubilee clip did not experience the cracking. I found the article by accident years ago but I have been unable to find it again.
Regards Martin.

I was advised on that too. But mine I think was cracked when I got it so it wasn't an option. A new Remus though was a great find....

Yesterday I found the K1100 will scratch quite nicely on mountain back roads.

I'm back home after a few days touring in the California Sierras; now it's time to dive into my new-to-me 1996 K1100LT.  
I viewed the Bridgestone website to check on a pair of BT-45s to replace the ancient Metzelers now on the bike. Based on the figures there, I'm concerned that the porky K1100LT may be too heavy for those tires.  The 110/80 18 (front tire) maximum weight rating is 520 lbs.  That's well below the weight of the motorcycle.  The rear 140/80 - 17 is rated at 716 lbs, which is more in keeping with the weight of the bike.
I'm assuming that Bridgestone's max. weight figure is not the machine's loaded weight divided by 2 (as in 2 tires).  Otherwise, I'm obliged to shop for cruiser tires, which seems odd for a machine like the K1100LT.

Check maximum axle load in the documents for the bike.

I bought the machine used and there is no riders manual.     On the bright side, I got the OEM tools! 

Get T30 EVOs.  They're on sale at Chaparral since the BT31s just came out. $50 rebate per two until June 30. Net cost for a pair is $174.

150/70-17 for the rear.

Run them at 34 front/40 rear.

I bought some for an LT last year and have bought two more pair in the last couple of weeks.  They're great tires.

Thanks for the tip, Duck.  I'm on it!
Have you mounted them on something as heavy as the K1100LT?
Late breaking news: looks like that ship has left the port.  The sizes I need are not available now. 

Here's the weight specification page from the K1100 rider's manual. Poundage indicated by arrows. Your wheels will collapse from weight before your tire selections do—theoretically. If you don't make it more complicated than that, you can go spend.

Porkiness is not a bike problem. Load with regard to balance, keep beer kegs low and not rearward.

This is not a tyre recommendation but just a comment on my experience with my K1100 which has over 170,000km on it. I also have used a number of sets of Bridgestone BT45 in the 110/80 x 18 front, 140/80 x 17 rear sizes and can assure you that you won't have trouble with the weight on them.

Some of my trips on them have been 2 up and loaded to the max with camping gear for extended touring. I have just removed a BT45 front which did 17,000km (all solo riding). But keep the pressures up, I find 36/40 psi works for me.

Cheers

Thanks for the info re tire load specs.
I've purchased Bridgestone radials, as of today.  I will fit a T30 on the front, a T31 on the rear (I hope, as it is a 150/70 -17 and may be snug).  I have also ordered some consumable parts in anticipation of servicing this bike before I put it back on the road.  Due to it's sitting idle for a good while, there will be plenty to attend to.  One matter I didn't anticipate is the fork seals.  The machine arrived in a trailer.  Both lower fork legs were well lubed with what later proved to be fork oil.  I've concluded the driver/loader had secured the bike with those ratcheting straps and had cinched them down far tighter that was prudent.  I believe this forced the fork oil past the seals.  Today I reviewed a write-up on changing the fork springs on a K1100LT and was impressed at how complicated this procedure is (requiring three people?). Changing the fork seals only will scarcely be easier.  I'm now hoping that I can avoid that by simply draining and replacing the oil in the forks.  If the leaks are the result of the forks being forced to bottom due to the straps, the seals could still be serviceable.
Or is this just wishful thinking on my part?

One of our Krew has run those 150/70 - 17 Bridgestone rears so they obviously fit OK and I don't recall that he had to make any adjustments to the bike.

Good luck with the fork seals.

Cheers

Yes, I put those sizes T30s on a K1100LT last summer and have over 4,000+ miles on them.  They haven't popped from the weight - yet.

One thing I forgot to mention which is important - as least to me.  If it hasn't been done yet, when getting the new shoes put on get rid of the 25 year old rubber valve stems and replace them with metal ones.  I use Bikemaster 151402 or 15-1567.

While waiting for my tires to arrive, I decided to connect a dedicated pigtail for charging the battery, least it go tits up for lack of use.  I quickly discovered the limits of transferring understanding gained from owning my old K100RS to the new (to me) K1100LT.  I can't work out how to access the @#%! battery. It rests under what appears to be an ignition control unit.  I need to free that to access the battery top, but I don't understand how to unplug the connector.  From the left side of the bike the plug sits lengthwise with the frame.  On the tail end there is a metal piece that looks to be a release, but I can't move it at all.  Can someone explain how that is supposed to work?

I'm disappointed to see how much I have to learn about this machine.  It's way different from the K100RS! Putting this back on the road will entail some considerable learning on my part. I'm counting on the deep reserves of knowledge and patience of this forum,  most especially with the electrical mysteries I've uncovered.  

Hi Brick, if you're K1100 is like mine you need to push the silver clip (red arrow) towards the rear of the bike to release the black plug then rotate the rear end of the plug towards the front of the bike so that the hook on the front end of the plug can disengage from the white block (green ellipse).



Then you can remove the cap screw holding the control unit and unplug the ground wire, lift out the unit and you will have access to the battery.

Cheers

On the LT you have 2 or 3 power outlets you can use for charging the battery,
much less hazzle.

brickrider2 wrote:

I'm disappointed to see how much I have to learn about this machine.  It's way different from the K100RS! Putting this back on the road will entail some considerable learning on my part.   

Some of that learning, include getting at the battery, can be gathered from the K1100 riders manual at this link.

It rests under what appears to be an ignition control unit. 

It's the Motronic ECU.

Mike

I'm disappointed to see how much I have to learn about this machine. 

Look at the bottom of this for a couple of things for a 93LT: http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/genmaint/K_Bike_General_Maintenance_V1.2.pdf 


Operation: [url=http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/optips/Operating_Tips_For_A_K100RS4V K1 or K1100.pdf]http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/optips/Operating_Tips_For_A_K100RS4V%20K1%20or%20K1100.pdf[/url]

Thanks for the prompt replies to my question.  
I did manage to access the battery. With the confirmation that the aft part of the ECU connector must be released first, I tugged harder and it came free.  I'd been hesitant to put much force on the clip before because there's a white plastic post that limits the clip's travel and I feared I'd break it.

I have located the two BMW power take off sockets.  However, on this bike I want to use a pig tail connected directly to the battery.  I have a charger that has a setting for this particular battery's design and its connector is not compatible with the OEM socket. 

The previous owner said the radio had stopped working and he'd never bothered to investigate. On the off chance a fuse could be blown I had a look.  #9 (15A) on the panel was open.  Nearby was a bit of harness with three exposed long pin connectors.  There is no plastic housing around them, they are just the free ends of some wires that emerge from the harness.  There is a  blue plastic female connector secured on the frame tube in about the same spot, so I plugged the pins into that connector.  At that point I discovered the sheath was cut and there were a number of other wires inside that had been cut off clean.  I can't imagine how the 4-5 wires could be cut there without causing any problem(s) to the various instruments, which seem to function as they should. 
Back in the storage behind the seat there is a box I take to be a security system.  There's no fob and I have no idea how it is armed/disarmed. Would the exposed wires I found likely be a part of the (supposed) security system?

Depending on the year 9/93 or before it would be the ABS computer.
That Pic wasn't showing up on the last tome I posted.  That is post 93 so the ABS computer is next to and attached to the Modulator so what the gizzmo in the tail is I cant help you

Typically on the K bikes (my two at least) any connector or relay that is blue in colour is part of the ABS system.

The 3 pin connector in your last picture is the ABS diagnostic connector and will likely have female sockets and a blanking on it.

This article may be useful once you start thinking about ABS  along with what RickG has said about Toshi.

I have found it very handy to fit a male Merit plug to the chargers that I use on the bikes then plug straight into the OEM power sockets as others have suggested to charge. 

Cheers

I'm cautiously optimistic that I've worked out how to insert and image in a post now.  Here's my machine.  It's hard to believe it is 22 years old. (Well, I see I still need to polish my image hosting skills)    Not shown in the photo(s) is the panniers and top box. They too are in fine condition.
I now have a Clymer manual for K-bikes.  Sadly, it's focus is on the K100 and K75 models, or so it seems after a quick and dirty thumb-through of it 700+ pages. Nevertheless, it's sure to help me sort out the few issues the bike seems to have.  That volume and the experts that are found here are all I'll need to bond with my new beauty.

Brick, you need to go to Chapter 14 in your Clymer Manual.

Cheers

BT 45 are great tyres (I use them on hillclimb races), they were designed for the K11 as original equipment, but wear quite rapidly. Never managed to get them more than 3000km.
I've tried many tyres since and eventually found a radial with the recommended dimensions, the Bridgestone BW 502. It achieved 8000 kms before a nail destroys it, half worn.
I think that I'll try the new Bridgestone A41 which is available for front and rear in the dimensions for the K11, with two different compounds on the center and the shoulders.

My new-to-me K1100LT has the OEM radio, with illuminates but otherwise does not work.  I bought a Clymer workshop manual for the bike, but it doesn't seem to mention the radio (or the security alarm).  Can anyone direct me to any literature that explains the radio function and possibly it's removal from the fairing? Thanks.

brickrider2 wrote:My new-to-me K1100LT has the OEM radio, with illuminates but otherwise does not work.  I bought a Clymer workshop manual for the bike, but it doesn't seem to mention the radio (or the security alarm).  Can anyone direct me to any literature that explains the radio function and possibly it's removal from the fairing? Thanks.

You probably need to enter the 4 digit security code.

Here's the manual for the radio: http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/Manuals/BMW%20AM%20FM%20Cassette%20Radio%20Manual.pdf

How to remove it is Step 0.5 here:
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/k75rt.fairing/k75rt.fairing.htm

Many thanks, Drake!  You are a walking (riding?) encyclopedia.  

My "new" 21-year old K1100LT is receiving as proper a going over as I can manage before I begin using the ol' girl as she was intended. In the course of replenishing the fluids, a question occurs to me.  What causes the coolant to go off?  Is it heat cycles? The passing of time?  I'm unsure if I should renew the coolant in this bike or merely top it up and ride.

The BMW recommended coolant change interval is two years.  However, that maintenance schedule is from 1990. Nowadays most coolants are "extended life" with recommended change intervals of 50-100,000 miles.

I always change the coolant on new-to-me bikes just for peace of mind and it's pretty inexpensive to do so.

Do not exceed the recommended torque spec of 9 Nm when installing the temp sensor. DAMHIK.

Coolant has corrosion inhibitors in it that probably work by sacrificing themselves to the oxygen that would otherwise attack the metal parts of the engine.  At some point they run out and new coolant is needed to replenish them.

A coolant change with long life coolant only costs about $12-13 and takes about a half hour.  For the protection you get from new coolant I don't think it's worth not doing.

If I was doing one bike, I would buy a gallon of 50/50 premix and add about a quart of distilled water to it and use that mix to fill the system.  Cheapest way out and the least amount of leftover coolant.

Okay, new coolant it will be! 
It's not an expensive job, but I'm always a little apprehensive about dealing with coolant due to the danger of any spillage killing someone's pet.

It takes several ounces ingested to kill a pet. Unless you're really sloppy and don't bother to clean up then the chances you will harm a pet are minimal.

Go to the Dollar General and get a large disposable aluminum roasting pan to drain the old coolant into and a big funnel.  After you fill the cooling system, put the old stuff into the jug and take it to one of those quick oil change places.  If you are reasonably careful you won't spill more than a couple teaspoons.

I bought a large shallow plastic storage box 150 deep x 380 wide x 750 long from an OP shop cheap $5.00 AU no lid. However I had a spare lid at home and it fitted.  It is large enough to fit under the whole engine and g/box and I can drop the coolant with no fear of spillage. When not serving duty as a drainage vessel I use it for storage for easily removed items.
Regards Martin.

If I trace every one of those 11 wires in the connector to the security system control unit, removed them at their connections in the relay box and at the other junctures on the wiring loom, is that sufficient to remove the security system from the bike?  Should I expect that some other connections (re-connections?) are needed for the bike to truly be returned to original function?  What are the probabilities I'll have a running motorcycle after disconnecting the security system in this manner? 

This may strike some as a crazy question, but I'm a self-admitted electrical dunce and don't relish having to sort out any problems of my own making in the K1100LT wiring system.  I approached the local dealer with this job and found the service guy and mechanic were suspiciously uninterested in doing the work.  Their response made me wonder what pitfalls I may stumble into.

Thanks for you understanding and advice.

I just helped a local LT owner who wanted to disable the security system. All I had to do was disconnect the black box hidden in the tail cowl. Bike runs like a bike without one now.

When I unplug the system's controller, the bike will not run; the starter won't operate.

brickrider2 wrote:When I unplug the system's controller, the bike will not run; the starter won't operate.

Hmmm... must be a different alarm or wired differently.

brickrider2 wrote:When I unplug the system's controller, the bike will not run; the starter won't operate.

Now would be a good time to post some photos of the unit and the controller you're disconnecting.

See if there is anything helpful in this post or the ones following it—especially the part concerning connecting pins to enable starting.

It looks like your unit is similar to the one in this post where the bridging of pins is used to enable starting of the engine.

I agree. The discussion seems to be about the very same units.  However, I still don't understand what may be necessary for me to do to keep the starter circuit functioning when I remove the security control unit and the related wiring.  Specifically, I don't understand this:  "Looks like pin 10 and 12 are an interrupt to the starter relay control. I unplugged connector from the main control box and put a jumper across the bodyside connector pins 10 and 12. The bike starts and operates fine. "


It may be this owner kept the wiring loom for the control unit and connected the pins on the loom.  Or, is that reference to pins on a relay or ...?


One major goal I have is to remove the control unit's wiring loom.  It's excessively long and full of potential faults.  I've already verified it caused one blown fuse. 

The black/yellow wire from the right combo switch is the 12V+ trigger for the starter relay.

My GUESS would be that the alarm system breaks the circuit between that and the starter relay so that when the alarm is engaged a potential thief cannot start the bike.

i recon thats a fairly good guess Duck

I've traced the cable from the security alarm control into the relay box. 


It's clear which connections relate to the security alarm harness.  I plan to simply disconnect those.  I have located the black/yellow wire from the right handlebar switch, which I understand to be the key to energizing the starter.  After I disconnect that from the security alarm loom, where should I connect it?  Secondly, there's a white plastic connector in the right side of the relay box. It connects two wires from the OEM loom to two wires from the security alarm. (Actually, the OEM loom has four wires entering, but two end in the plastic connector).   What should I do with the four after I disconnect the alarm wires? Tape over the plastic connector?  Connect them somewhere else?
Thanks for your patience.