BMW K bikes (Bricks)


You are not connected. Please login or register

View previous topic View next topic Go down  Message [Page 1 of 1]


keensleeper

keensleeper
active member
active member
Hi everyone,

Working on my first custom build ever I’m in the process of stripping back to bare engine to give everything a proper clean (the aluminium has horrendous oxidisation but that’s for another post) but got stuck at the yoke top nut.

A gallon of penetration fluid, heating the nut and letting cool have all yielding zero success.

Has anyone else experienced this situation and have any tips?

Yours ever hopefully,
Al

Seized triple yoke top nut - advice please! K100RS 7739d010
Seized triple yoke top nut - advice please! K100RS 3789ab10
Seized triple yoke top nut - advice please! K100RS 497a1510

    

MartinW

MartinW
Life time member
Life time member
Try a mix of acetone and ATF 50-50 mix. Create a dam out of plasticine and let it soak, the longer the soak the better. You will have to top up the dam . If you have access to a compressor and a impact gun this will help but soak first.
Regards Martin.


__________________________________________________
1992 K75s
    

keensleeper

keensleeper
active member
active member
Martin thank you so much for the prompt reply!

Sadly no access to an impact gun so will try the damming technique. Will let you know how that goes!

Al

    

robmack

robmack
Life time member
Life time member
Follow Martin's advice. When ready to try, use a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a good 30mm 6-point socket and an extension pipe on the breaker bar for leverage. Two people helps. One to hold pressure on the socket so that it doesn't slip; the other to apply torque to the breaker bar. Apply steady pressure to the bar. Make sure the tank and stanchions are removed so that they don't interfere. It should eventually give way.


__________________________________________________
Robert
1987 K75 @k75retro.blogspot.ca
http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/
    

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
Life time member
Life time member
You mention letting the nut cool.  You need to heat the nut and apply the wrench BEFORE it cools.  Heat it quickly to minimize the heat that will leak into the stem.  The idea is to expand the nut with heat so it doesn't grip the stem so hard.

And as RBM mentioned, use a 6 point socket, anything else will risk rounding off the points on the nut.


__________________________________________________
Present: 1991 K100RS "Moby Brick Too"
 
Past:
1994 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
1988 K100RS SE "Special Ed"
1994 K75S "Cheetos"
1992 K100RS "Moby Brick" R.I.P.
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

keensleeper

keensleeper
active member
active member
Thanks all, will let you all know how it goes!

    

keensleeper

keensleeper
active member
active member
Hi Everyone, 

Finally found the time to attack the nut and hey presto the soaking, 6 point socket and breaker bar with a friend worked a treat.

Martin, robmack and Point-Seven-five, thank you very much for your help. 

Now onto the job of replacing the bearings...

-Al

    

Markosaurus

Markosaurus
active member
active member
Hi, check out Chis Harris’ U-tube page.  There is a whole segment on replacing steering head bearings you might find useful. Cheers Mark


__________________________________________________
;BMW; K75RT “Lil’ Blue”
    

Dai

Dai
Life time member
Life time member
When you get the outer races out (and assuming you haven't resorted to the welding trick), save them somewhere. They make great drifts for seating the new races.


__________________________________________________
1983 K100 naked upgraded to K100LT spec after spending time as an RS and an RT
1987 K100RT
Others...
1978 Moto Guzzi 850-T3, 1979 Moto Guzzi 850-T3 California,1993 Moto Guzzi 1100ie California
2020 Royal Enfield Bullet 500
    

View previous topic View next topic Back to top  Message [Page 1 of 1]

Permissions in this forum:
You cannot reply to topics in this forum