How are the bearings removed.  Diagrams do not show a spacer between the two so I assume they are pressed in against a shoulder.

I need to replace the bearings (and on the side stand release arm) because the seals are disintegrating.

With great difficulty. You might be able to get a dremel or similar in there to weaken the outer race and then break it out with a thin punch. I'd consider boring straight through at the diameter of the bearings and then instead of putting new bearings and a spacer in, fit a full length bronze bush (or similar). Someone did that on the clutch arm I'm currently using.

I also used a copy Dremel. I pulled all needles out and then slowly ground the bearing until it cracked.

It took a while but I put new bearings in freezer and then pushed in with vice. They went in quite easily.

Smoll

ditto on the cutting of the outer of the bearing
I installed oilite type brass bushes instead of the needle rollers ...its just a bad place to put a needle roller without some form of seal to protect it …

While you are there fit a grease nipple. A grease nipple will allow you to keep the road crap and water out.
Regards Martin.

Well the slide hammer didn't work other than a great way to remove the internals of the bearing!

Will use the dremel and definately fit a grease nipple 

Hammer wont work.

I had to spot weld onto the outer races, the inners came out ok but the outers needed pulling out.

Remove the shoulder or use bushings and grease nipples.

I plan to swap mine out so have a spare pivot arm on the way and will do the Ks one at a time

Encouraged by the good work done on the clutch arm by fellow forum knuts near and far and my mate Tom having a K100 in the tidy up type project stage, we decided to have a go at repairing a clutch arm ourselves.

First up I drilled the housing and fitted a grease nipple then set about removing the bearings by firstly destroying the cage with a fine punch leaving the little rollers on the workshop floor and then using a diamond file in my dremel to do two cuts almost through the outer race allowing me to break them out.


Tom was keen to have O rings fitted outboard of the proposed bushes to help prevent the ingress of krap in the future so we bored the housing about 2mm deeper.

Then pushed in the 12x8x10 bushes that we could source from the local bearing supplier. These were plain bushes rather than the Oilite type that some have used.

The bushes were set to allow the O ring to be slightly proud of the housing thus hopefully sealing the space between the clutch arm and the mounting lugs on the gearbox.

A bit of linishing work to tidy up the pivot pin and get the optimal fit and it should last a long time.

Of course I left Tom to do the dirty work of fitting the clutch arm back onto his bike but he reports that all is good.

Cheers

great work there Gaz

im sure Tom will feel the benefits for many years

great pics mate … cheers

+1

Nice one Gaz let us know how you get on installing it and if the o rings cause any drag.

Initially encountered difficulties in fitting the arm because the O rings kept turning into pretzels. The solution was to press the bushes in a little further allowing the O rings to be further recessed but still protruding a little. Worked a treat. I suppose  felt washers could also have been used instead of O rings. Cheers Tom  PS The O rings do not cause any drag on the clutch operation at all. Sweet as nut.

    good to hear Tom