Born Again Eccentric wrote: DBRMN wrote: Born Again Eccentric wrote: However, don't assume that something is defective before you have eliminated other options first - conduct fault finding logically - it is often the obvious things that present the problem and not the failure of a more major component.
I funnily managed to fix the clutch problem though I though it was catching i simply just hadn't realised that the side stand would physically block the clutch level which now I'm writing it makes me feel incredibly stupid but I definitely do think I need to replace the clutch cable anyway.
In terms of alarm I had a little experiment today as I thought like you simply unplug it all and it will be fine, however it wasn't, without realising it I had caused the speedometer to not get power. This confused me so much as the indicators still worked but the speedo didn't, long story short plugged alarm back in it worked again. This makes me think removing it would be a much bigger job. I had a chat with my electronics teacher and he said it would definitely be possible but is most likely incredibly difficult to remove...
...I had a little check today to see if the bike would turn over, since I'd fixed the clutch. Did all my pre-flight checks and pressed start and it did in fact turn over, without petrol in. Which mad me thrilled, so tomorrow I plan on firing the old girl up and seeing if it idles. But it's definitely very promising...
One final issue that arises today however was as I told you I turned the bike over, but before that I decided to plug the ABS unit back in just in case it was required for the bike to start. However I plugged it in turned the bike on and the relay box just began to click once a second, I unplugged the ABS and it stopped. Do you know what this is? I have removed the ABS switch on the dash board and the light from the instrument panel.
Yay - good new - like I said..often it is the simplest things. I didn't think of the side stand retract mechanism because I have disconnected it on both my bikes. I didn't see the need for additional load on the clutch cable just to put the side stand up. Of course, with the weight of the bike on the side stand and the retract mechanism attached, the clutch would be very heavy to operate and, if you did (without being on the bike), it would produce a most undesirable lie down. No need to feel stupid at all - we all forget somethings and learn other things about our bikes all the time and asking questions is definitely a better option than doing damage. Using brute force and ignorance and forcing the clutch, with the bike on the side stand, now that would be leaving you feeling a whole lot stupider.
Alarm - the auxiliary socket may have been used as a switched power source for your speedo. I know nothing about the aftermarket speedo you have fitted, but I do use that auxiliary socket to power some after market accessories (e.g. GPS). You need to look at the wiring and work out what is part of the alarm circuit and what else is tapped into it for power.
Excellent news on the bike turning over - get some gas in that tank and fire her up. Good luck.
ABS: This is not required to start the bike at all (quite good for slowing down quickly without locking up either wheel though!!). Normally, when you switch on the ignition (with the original instrument cluster), you get the ABS light and Brake monitoring light (red light) come on. The ABS light flashes and you get a steady light on the brake monitoring light. The clicking you hear is the ABS relay (under the fuel tank). Operating the front and rear brakes will clear the bulb monitoring unit logic and cause the brake monitoring light to flash in unison with the ABS light. Both these light will continue to flash until the bike goes more than 2.5mph when all lights go out signifying that the ABS system is fully functional, or you press the ABS switch which will stop the relay clicking and give steady lights on the cluster (the ABS system will not be in operation) - after 10 minutes, the lights will start flashing again and need another press of the switch.
Any error codes in the ABS brain (black box in the duck tail) will prevent the ABS system from operating - these need to be individually cleared (once the fault condition has been cleared) - a battery at low volts is a very common cause of an ABS fault code (the fault remains even after the battery is fully charged). For this reason a lot of people disconnect the ABS system - either by completely stripping it out (heavy modulators, brain and all) or just by removing the ABS light relay which stops the annoying flashing and clicking.
It sounds like you have disabled the ABS system already - so the ABS light relay will be redundant. Judging by your picture, you haven't removed the whole system (ABS modulators are still in place and the cabling to the brain looks like it is dangling around your foot pegs, but I suspect that some more of this may be going...?
![Prep for starting the bike Abs10](https://i.servimg.com/u/f62/18/74/68/80/abs10.jpg)
Have a look at this post - the pics show where the ABS relay is located.
https://www.k100-forum.com/t9507-what-s-the-blue-relay-for#112478Removing this relay has no impact on the starting or running of the bike.
Don't forget your fuel cap...before you fuel up and try to start her. No prizes for turning your project and the school into a fireball! Make sure it goes on the right way round too (hinge to rear) - important for the water drain holes.
Fingers crossed...but standby for more issues (perils of taking a good German design and slimming it down cafe style).